{"id":928,"date":"2018-06-03T02:23:54","date_gmt":"2018-06-03T01:23:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=928"},"modified":"2020-01-12T00:09:27","modified_gmt":"2020-01-11T23:09:27","slug":"norska-poutni-cesta-svateho-olafa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/norska-poutni-cesta-svateho-olafa\/","title":{"rendered":"NORSK\u00c1 POUTN\u00cd CESTA SVAT\u00c9HO OLAFA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Putov\u00e1n\u00ed po nelehk\u00e9 poutn\u00ed cest\u011b svat\u00e9ho Olafa v Norsku. N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 divok\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda, barevn\u00e1 v\u0159esovi\u0161t\u011b a hory, kde budete \u00fapln\u011b sami. <\/span><\/p>\n

Kdo se jednou vyd\u00e1 na poutn\u00ed cestu, tou\u017e\u00ed ji j\u00edt znovu a znovu. Kdy\u017e  jsme s m\u00fdm 63let\u00fdm t\u00e1tou u\u0161li 300 kilometr\u016f z portugalsk\u00e9ho Porta do Santiaga de Compostela, n\u00e1dhern\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek se n\u00e1m hluboce vryl do na\u0161ich du\u0161\u00ed. Po dvou letech uzr\u00e1l \u010das vyrazit znovu. Rozhodnut\u00ed padlo na m\u00e1lo zn\u00e1mou norskou pou\u0165 svat\u00e9ho Olafa. Kdybychom v\u011bd\u011bli, jak bude n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1……..<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mapa Norsko a pout\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Informac\u00ed o  cest\u011b bylo na internetu <\/span>m\u00e1lo, jedin\u00fdm pomocn\u00edkem se stal skv\u011bl\u00fd blog Lucie Vesel\u00e9. Ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed str\u00e1nky cesty moc sd\u00edln\u00e9 nebyly. Vytiskli jsme z internetu p\u00e1r map a v \u010dervenci vyrazili.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Znak pout\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

P\u00c1R Z\u00c1KLADN\u00cdCH INFORMAC\u00cd<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

650 kilometr\u016f dlouh\u00e1 svatoolafsk\u00e1 cesta  vede z hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta Osla<\/strong> do Trondheimu<\/strong>. P\u0159esn\u011b k hrobu kr\u00e1le Olafa v katedr\u00e1le Nidaros.  Vl\u00e1dce Olaf byl sice Viking, ale sna\u017eil se Norsko p\u0159ev\u00e9st na k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed. Ne zrovna m\u00edrumilovnou cestou. Po jeho smrti se za\u010daly d\u00edt z\u00e1zraky a z\u00e1stupy poutn\u00edk\u016f proudily k jeho hrobu. Po star\u00e9 kr\u00e1lovsk\u00e9 stezce vede i ta dne\u0161n\u00ed. Nejhez\u010d\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st cesty za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 v olympijsk\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku Lillehammer<\/strong>, odkud vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme i my.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Kemp Odden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00daDOL\u00cd GUDBRANDSDALEN<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

V poutn\u00ed kancel\u00e1\u0159i si kupujeme poutnick\u00e9 pr\u016fkazy. Budeme do nich dost\u00e1vat raz\u00edtka, d\u016fkaz, \u017ee jsme cestu opravdu absolvovali. Z Lillehammeru<\/strong> vede cesta kouzeln\u00fdm \u00fadol\u00edm Gudbrandsdalen.<\/strong> Prot\u00e9k\u00e1 j\u00edm \u0159eka L\u00e5gen, kterou kop\u00edruje z jedn\u00e9 strany \u017eeleznice, z druh\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed silnice mezi Oslem a Trondheimem. \u00dadol\u00ed lemuj\u00ed zelen\u00e9 kopce, kudy z\u0159ejm\u011b vede stezka. My zna\u010dku za m\u011bstem ztr\u00e1c\u00edme, a tak jdeme po silnici. Po krajin\u011b jsou rozeset\u00e9  usedlosti, nikde \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd obchod, restaurace ani ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Po 30 kilometrech  p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme zcela vy\u010derpan\u00ed do kempu Odden.<\/strong> Spr\u00e1vce pr\u00fd posledn\u00ed chatku p\u0159ed chv\u00edl\u00ed pronajal, m\u00e1me j\u00edt do dal\u0161\u00edho kempu. Ten je ale 15 kilometr\u016f daleko. Zoufale ho p\u0159emlouv\u00e1m, chlap\u00edk se slituje a m\u016f\u017eeme slo\u017eit hlavu v koupeln\u011b. Za 450 K\u010d sp\u00edme ve spac\u00e1ku (karimatky nem\u00e1me) na dla\u017edic\u00edch se sprchou nad hlavou a toaletou p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi. N\u00e1m to ale nevad\u00ed. D\u00e1me si k ve\u010de\u0159i bagety z domova, zapijeme je vodou a tvrd\u011b us\u00edn\u00e1me.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

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Na cest\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Druh\u00fd den jdeme malebnou krajinou s kope\u010dky a zelen\u00fdmi loukami. V mal\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku kone\u010dn\u011b potk\u00e1v\u00e1me supermarket. Nakupujeme jen to z\u00e1kladn\u00ed, ceny v Norsku jsou \u0161\u00edlen\u00e9. Nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chl\u00e9b 90 K\u010d, margar\u00edn 60 K\u010d, s\u00fdr 90 K\u010d, pivo v plechovce 70 K\u010d. V kav\u00e1rn\u011b dostanu m\u00edsto espressa kel\u00edmek odst\u00e1t\u00e9ho nescafe. Za 100 K\u010d. T\u00edmto za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 n\u00e1\u0161 t\u0159\u00edt\u00fddenn\u00ed p\u016fst. Kone\u010dn\u011b ale nach\u00e1z\u00edme prvn\u00ed svatoolafskou zna\u010dku – \u010derven\u00fd symbol k\u0159\u00ed\u017ee. Nad\u0161en\u011b \u0161plh\u00e1me do strm\u00e9ho kopce a koch\u00e1me se v\u00fdhledy na vln\u00edc\u00ed se \u0159eku Lagen. Nave\u010der dojdeme do herbergu (poutnick\u00e9 ubytovny) Glomstadt Gard<\/strong> Og<\/strong> Pensjonat<\/strong> a m\u00e1me dal\u0161\u00ed \u0161ok. Cena za  mal\u00fd dvoul\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd pokoj je 2700 K\u010d! Tak draho jsem nikdy nikde nespala. Nem\u00e1me na v\u00fdb\u011br. Pr\u00fd je tu spousta poutn\u00edk\u016f. Podle bot a oble\u010den\u00ed jsme v\u0161ak z\u0159ejm\u011b jedin\u00ed, kdo jde p\u011b\u0161ky. Ostatn\u00ed maj\u00ed vyle\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 spole\u010densk\u00e9 boty a kufry. Odm\u00edt\u00e1me ve\u010de\u0159i za 900 K\u010d (za osobu), pochutn\u00e1me si na oblo\u017een\u00fdch chlebech ze supermarketu a spokojen\u011b us\u00edn\u00e1me. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

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Farma Tromsnes Gard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bohat\u00e1 hotelov\u00e1 sn\u00eddan\u011b, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 slune\u010dn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed a modr\u00e1 obloha n\u00e1m r\u00e1no zvednou n\u00e1ladu. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme zarostl\u00e9 pastviny, vlhk\u00e9 lesy s mechov\u00fdmi koberci, po vratk\u00fdch d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch l\u00e1vk\u00e1ch p\u0159es k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lov\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u010dky. Po \u017eeb\u0159\u00edc\u00edch p\u0159el\u00e9z\u00e1me  ohrady pro  skot a ovce a zd\u00e1rn\u011b se vyh\u00fdb\u00e1me jejich lejn\u016fm. Sl\u00e9z\u00e1me na dno \u00fadol\u00ed, abychom se za chv\u00edli prod\u00edrali hust\u00fdm lesem strm\u011b nahoru. Zna\u010dky jsou zarostl\u00e9 a za\u0161l\u00e9 a n\u00e1m za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 doch\u00e1zet, \u017ee to nebude takov\u00e1 pohoda jako na pouti do Santiaga. Na farm\u011b ve m\u011bste\u010dku Favang<\/strong> by m\u011blo b\u00fdt ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed pro poutn\u00edky. Je zde spousta dome\u010dk\u016f, ale nikde nikdo. Po hodin\u011b \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159ijde n\u011bjak\u00fd chlap\u00edk. Pr\u00fd je v\u0161e pln\u011b obsazeno. Nech\u00e1pu to, je tu \u00fapln\u011b pusto. Za cel\u00fd den jsme nepotkali \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9ho poutn\u00edka. Op\u011bt ho \u00fap\u011bnliv\u011b pros\u00edme o pomoc s noclehem. Nakonec n\u00e1s zaveze n\u011bkolik kilometr\u016f zp\u011bt, odkud jsme p\u0159i\u0161li. V malebn\u00fdch kopc\u00edch se tu pe\u010dliv\u011b skr\u00fdv\u00e1 nen\u00e1padn\u00e1 farma Tromsnes gard<\/strong> s d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdmi dome\u010dky, kde se m\u016f\u017eeme ubytovat. Uvnit\u0159 jsou \u00fatuln\u00e9 pokoj\u00edky se spole\u010dnou kuchyn\u00ed a soci\u00e1ln\u00edm za\u0159\u00edzen\u00edm (cena 600 K\u010d\/osobu – v Norsku p\u0159\u00edzniv\u00e1 cena). Poprv\u00e9 potk\u00e1v\u00e1me poutn\u00edky. T\u00e1ta v\u0161em nab\u00edz\u00ed moravskou slivovici na p\u0159iv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed. Mlad\u00e1 N\u011bmka jde cestu ji\u017e podruh\u00e9 a \u00fapln\u011b sama. Letos je pr\u00fd dobr\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed, posledn\u00ed dva roky v l\u00e9t\u011b hodn\u011b pr\u0161elo. Pt\u00e1m se p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdch belgick\u00fdch man\u017eel\u016f, jak o farm\u011b v\u011bd\u011bli. Maj\u00ed pr\u016fvodce s mapami a informacemi o ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. I kdy\u017e je ve vl\u00e1m\u0161tin\u011b, nafot\u00edm si jej do telefonu. Od te\u010f u\u017e v\u017edy v\u00edme, kde hledat nocleh.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

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D\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd kostel v Rindgebu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

T\u0159et\u00ed den cesty jdeme kr\u00e1snou krajinou. S v\u00fdhledem na sjezdovky sb\u00edr\u00e1me ostru\u017einy a maliny, vy\u0161plh\u00e1me na jednu z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch vyhl\u00eddek na \u00fadol\u00ed a pak zase prudce dol\u016f. V m\u011bste\u010dku Rindgebu<\/strong> se zastav\u00edme u rouben\u00e9ho kostela z roku 1220, pat\u0159\u00ed k nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm v Norsku. Hust\u00fdmi lesy kolem  mohutn\u00e9ho vodop\u00e1du dojdeme do herbergu Gildesvollen<\/strong>, kde n\u00e1s v\u00edtaj\u00ed Belgi\u010dan\u00e9 a dv\u011b mlad\u00e9 N\u011bmky. Zaj\u00edmav\u00fd je syst\u00e9m placen\u00ed. Zap\u00ed\u0161eme se do knihy a vlo\u017e\u00edme do n\u00ed pen\u00edze za ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed (750 K\u010d\/osobu), p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b za j\u00eddlo v krabi\u010dk\u00e1ch, kter\u00e9 je tu k dispozici. Funguje to a nikdo se neodv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed podv\u00e1d\u011bt nebo pen\u00edze vz\u00edt. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_3_placeholder\n

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Na\u0161e ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed ve Skar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dnes mus\u00edme vy\u0161plhat do nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edho kopce v okol\u00ed. Zlov\u011bstn\u011b se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi ty\u010d\u00ed. P\u0159es ohrady a pastviny to je\u0161t\u011b jde. Jen\u017ee tmav\u00e9 lesn\u00ed cesty jsou posety ostr\u00fdmi kameny, kter\u00e9 nevid\u00edm. Nev\u00edm, kam \u0161lapu, jsem pomal\u00e1 a po p\u00e1r hodin\u00e1ch psychicky i fyzicky vy\u010derpan\u00e1. Vysoko nad \u00fadol\u00edm nach\u00e1z\u00edme na kouzeln\u00e9 m\u00fdtin\u011b dv\u011b d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 chatky se st\u0159echami porostl\u00fdmi hustou tr\u00e1vou. M\u00edsto se naz\u00fdv\u00e1 Skar<\/strong>, vybudovali ho v minul\u00e9m stolet\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed nad\u0161enci a je mo\u017en\u00e9 tu p\u0159espat. Na dve\u0159\u00edch je telefonn\u00ed \u010d\u00edslo, kde se dozv\u00edme k\u00f3d z\u00e1mku. M\u00e1me se zapsat do knihy host\u016f a pen\u00edze d\u00e1t do krabi\u010dky (300 K\u010d\/osobu). Chatka je skv\u011ble vybaven\u00e1. Postele s pe\u0159inami, n\u00e1dob\u00ed, sv\u00ed\u010dky a plynov\u00fd va\u0159i\u010d. Venku pumpa s vodou a such\u00fd z\u00e1chod. Elekt\u0159ina tu nen\u00ed. V Norsku je ale v l\u00e9t\u011b sv\u011btlo i o p\u016flnoci. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_4_placeholder\n

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Sm\u011br kemp ve Kvamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

R\u00e1no na n\u00e1s civ\u00ed st\u00e1do ovc\u00ed a rychle prch\u00e1 pry\u010d. Sl\u00e9z\u00e1me z vysok\u00fdch kopc\u016f lesn\u00ed p\u011b\u0161inou do vesnice, kde si u mil\u00e9 pan\u00ed dopl\u0148ujeme vodu a cel\u00fd den putujeme kr\u00e1sn\u00fdmi lesy nahoru a zp\u011bt do \u00fadol\u00ed. Op\u011bt p\u0159el\u00e9z\u00e1me mnoho ohrad. A rozbou\u0159en\u00e9 potoky. Za cel\u00fd den nikoho nepotk\u00e1me. Nave\u010der se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi rozev\u00edr\u00e1 fantastick\u00fd pohled na ohyby \u0159eky L\u00e5gen<\/strong> a po n\u011bkolika kilometrech dojdeme do kempu <\/span>Kirketeige<\/strong> v m\u011bste\u010dku Kvam <\/strong><\/span>(600 K\u010d\/osobu), kde m\u00e1me rezervovan\u00fd mal\u00fd pokoj\u00edk. Je tu i supermarket, kde nakoup\u00edme z\u00e1kladn\u00ed potraviny. Pro zaj\u00edmavost, cel\u00e9 t\u0159i t\u00fddny j\u00edme jen  oblo\u017een\u00e9 chleby se s\u00fdrem a sal\u00e1mem. V\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b vaj\u00ed\u010dka a skv\u011blou ryb\u00ed pastu. K tomu ka\u017edodenn\u00ed fyzick\u00e1 n\u00e1maha a dom\u016f p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme o spoustu kil leh\u010d\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_5_placeholder\n

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T\u011b\u017ek\u00fd ter\u00e9n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

T\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 \u0161ediv\u00e9 mraky nev\u011bst\u00ed pro dne\u0161n\u00ed den nic dobr\u00e9ho. Proch\u00e1z\u00edme de\u0161t\u011bm rozbahn\u011bn\u00fdmi roklemi, brod\u00edme se p\u011b\u0161inami v hust\u011b zarostl\u00fdch les\u00edch. Pr\u0161\u00ed, cesta je nam\u00e1hav\u00e1 a \u00fanavn\u00e1. Kdy\u017e se promo\u010den\u00ed vy\u0161kr\u00e1beme na vysok\u00fd kopec, radujeme se z hezk\u00e9 cesty. Ta se po chv\u00edli ztr\u00e1c\u00ed mezi bor\u016fv\u010d\u00edm a my pad\u00e1me po bl\u00e1tiv\u00fdch stezk\u00e1ch zase dol\u016f. A tak je tomu cel\u00fd den. N\u00e1hodn\u00ed sb\u011bra\u010di bor\u016fvek n\u00e1s uji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed, \u017ee kemp je nedaleko, jen\u017ee oni maj\u00ed auto. A my se je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bkolik hodin zk\u0159ehl\u00ed a promo\u010den\u00ed dr\u00e1peme rozbahn\u011bn\u00fdmi temn\u00fdmi lesy. Jako p\u0159\u00edzrak  kolem n\u00e1s n\u00e1hle prob\u011bhne kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 poutnice. P\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 mi la\u0148. My jsme t\u011b\u017ekop\u00e1dn\u00ed, pomal\u00ed a j\u00e1 za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1m Norsko nen\u00e1vid\u011bt. Nave\u010der po dvan\u00e1ctihodinov\u00e9m pochodu dojdeme do kempu Heimtun<\/strong> (1350 K\u010d\/chatka). Nen\u00ed to tu moc hezk\u00e9, ale v chatce je teplo, sucho a dost\u00e1v\u00e1me n\u011bkolik hrn\u00ed\u010dk\u016f dobr\u00e9 k\u00e1vy. M\u00e1me za sebou nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00ed den cel\u00e9 cesty. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_6_placeholder\n

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U\u017e jen 250 km do c\u00edle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Proto\u017ee n\u00e1s dal\u0161\u00ed den \u010dek\u00e1 stejn\u00fd ter\u00e9n, popojedeme autobusem 20 km do m\u011bste\u010dka Dovre<\/strong>. Snad n\u00e1m to svat\u00fd Olaf odpust\u00ed. Ubytujeme se v hezk\u00e9m kempu Volheim<\/strong>  u \u0159eky (1200 K\u010d\/dvoul\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd pokoj), kter\u00fd je pln\u00fd karavan\u016f a stan\u016f. U \u0159eky zaslechneme peprn\u00fd slovn\u00edk \u010desk\u00fdch teenager\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou zde na z\u00e1jezdu. Dovre<\/strong> je opravdu p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 pr\u00e1zdninov\u00e9 m\u00edsto. My v\u0161ak \u00fadol\u00ed Gudbrandsdalen <\/strong>opou\u0161t\u00edme. Do c\u00edle n\u00e1m zb\u00fdv\u00e1 u\u017e jen 250 km. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_7_placeholder\n

Do c\u00edle n\u00e1m zb\u00fdv\u00e1 u\u017e jen 250 km<\/span><\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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POHO\u0154\u00cd<\/span>  DOVREFJELL<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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V hor\u00e1ch Dovrefjell<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed etapa cesty vede p\u0159es poho\u0159\u00ed Dovrefjell.<\/strong> Kondice se n\u00e1m viditeln\u011b zlep\u0161ila, bez probl\u00e9m\u016f vylezeme na n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161inu ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 1200 m. n. m. V\u0161ude okolo jsou koberce b\u00edl\u00fdch v\u0159esovi\u0161\u0165 a mech\u016f, mo\u010d\u00e1l mezi nimi p\u0159eskakujeme po d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch desk\u00e1ch. Ani siln\u00fd v\u00edtr n\u00e1m nezkaz\u00ed radost z okoln\u00edch hor. Z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed v\u0161emi odst\u00edny okru. Jsou naprosto \u00fachvatn\u00e9. Ve\u010der jsme ale r\u00e1di, \u017ee p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme do Fokstugu Fjellstue<\/strong>, nejv\u00fd\u0161e polo\u017een\u00e9 farmy v Norsku (2400 K\u010d\/dvoul\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd pokoj). P\u0159\u00edsn\u00e1 majitelka vysv\u011btluje pravidla farmy a zve n\u00e1s na ve\u010dern\u00ed m\u0161i do m\u00edstn\u00ed kapli\u010dky. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me tu n\u011bjak\u00e9 poutn\u00edky, mezi nimi \u0160v\u00fdcarku Simonu, kter\u00e1 kolem n\u00e1s p\u0159ed p\u00e1r dny prob\u011bhla jako srna. <\/span><\/p>\n

Dva dny p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00edme poho\u0159\u00ed se zasn\u011b\u017een\u00fdmi vrcholky a nekone\u010dn\u00e1 v\u0159esovi\u0161t\u011b. V hosp\u016fdce t\u00e1tovi donese mal\u00e9 to\u010den\u00e9 pivo serv\u00edrka z Pardubic. Za 200 K\u010d! V poutnick\u00e9m ubytovn\u011b v Kongsvoldu<\/strong> se op\u011bt setk\u00e1v\u00e1me se zn\u00e1m\u00fdmi tv\u00e1\u0159emi. V\u011bt\u0161ina z nich pokra\u010duje je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r dn\u00ed p\u0159es hory, po\u010das\u00ed se v\u0161ak za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 kazit, jsme v \u010dasov\u00e9m skluzu, v nesch\u016fdn\u00e9m ter\u00e9nu jsem  pomal\u00e1, proto hory opou\u0161t\u00edme. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_8_placeholder\n

PASTVINY<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Chati\u010dka mezi b\u0159\u00edzkami v Haeverstolen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Dopl\u0148ujeme z\u00e1soby v supermarketu v Oppdalu<\/strong> a je n\u00e1m divn\u00e9, \u017ee tu nikde neprod\u00e1vaj\u00ed pivo. V Norsku je toti\u017e prohibice, pivo se sm\u00ed prod\u00e1vat od pond\u011bl\u00ed do soboty dopoledne, v\u00edno a tvrd\u00fd alkohol pouze ve specializovan\u00fdch obchodech Vinmonopolet<\/strong>. Je ned\u011ble, a tak m\u00e1me sm\u016flu. Skalnat\u00e9 hory nech\u00e1v\u00e1me za z\u00e1dy, u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si zelen\u00fdch pastvin s dobytkem a farmami. V n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edch dnech \u010dasto potk\u00e1v\u00e1me n\u011bmeckou harfistku  Dorothy, kter\u00e1 pr\u00fd t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nevidom\u00e9 poutnici a jej\u00edm otci sly\u0161ela od zdatn\u00e9 \u0160v\u00fdcarky Simony. Ta u\u0161la 40 km denn\u011b, mo\u017en\u00e1 je u\u017e v Trondheimu. Tady se n\u00e1m po viditeln\u011b zna\u010den\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch jde velmi dob\u0159e. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me velkou skupinou n\u011bmeck\u00fdch k\u0159es\u0165an\u016f z Hamburku. Na cest\u011b do Santiaga jsme denn\u011b potk\u00e1vali des\u00edtky poutn\u00edk\u016f. Z 25 zem\u00ed sv\u011bta. Tady jich za celou dobu potk\u00e1v\u00e1me t\u0159icet jedna. Z\u00e1padoevropany, hlavn\u011b N\u011bmce. Ze st\u0159edn\u00ed a v\u00fdchodn\u00ed Evropy nikoho. N\u011bmeck\u00e1 skupina n\u00e1m \u010dasto obsad\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed, m\u00edstn\u00ed <\/span>n\u00e1s v\u0161ak nenechaj\u00ed na holi\u010dk\u00e1ch. Jeden v\u00e1\u0161niv\u00fd ekolog n\u00e1s zaveze spolu s Dorothy kamsi do kopc\u016f, do kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch chaloupek v b\u0159ezov\u00e9m h\u00e1ji se st\u00e1dem ove\u010dek (Haeverstolen<\/strong> 750 K\u010d\/osobu). Jindy sp\u00edme zcela sami ve skv\u011bl\u00e9m herbergu Norgar<\/strong> ve m\u011bste\u010dku Voll<\/strong> (750 K\u010d\/osobu). Majitel s upov\u00eddanou man\u017eelkou n\u00e1s zvou na mal\u00e9 ob\u010derstven\u00ed a ve\u010der vezmou na prohl\u00eddku n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho rouben\u00e9ho kostela. Dozv\u00edme se hodn\u011b o historii Norska i t\u00e9to poutn\u00ed cesty. Spal tu pr\u00fd i zn\u00e1m\u00fd \u010desk\u00fd poutn\u00edk Petr Hirsch. Jindy p\u0159enocujeme v d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 chati\u010dce uprost\u0159ed norsk\u00e9ho skanzenu Meldal<\/strong> bygdemuseum<\/strong> (500 K\u010d\/osobu). V naprost\u00e9 pustin\u011b tu maj\u00ed i WIFI. Roste zde spousta jedl\u00fdch hub, prav\u00e1ku i vz\u00e1cn\u00fdch h\u0159ib\u016f kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fdch. M\u00edstn\u00ed je ale nesb\u00edraj\u00ed. Obecn\u011b zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm ti na venkov\u011b, jsou velmi p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u00ed. R\u00e1di ochotn\u011b porad\u00ed, ka\u017ed\u00fd chodec \u010di cyklista s \u00fasm\u011bvem zdrav\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_9_placeholder\n

BA\u017dINY<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Norsk\u00e1 tajga<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jsme op\u011bt v kopc\u00edch a krajina zdrsn\u00ed. B\u0159\u00edzy, jehli\u010dnany o\u0161lehan\u00e9 v\u011btrem a ba\u017einy, kter\u00e9 p\u0159el\u00e9z\u00e1me po desk\u00e1ch. P\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 mi to tu sibi\u0159skou tajgu. Oblast m\u00e1 ale zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed p\u016fvab. Prom\u00e1\u010den\u00ed, \u0161pinav\u00ed od bl\u00e1ta a vy\u010derpan\u00ed si chceme cestu zkr\u00e1tit. M\u00edsto toho jdeme n\u011bkolik kilometr\u016f opa\u010dn\u00fdm sm\u011brem. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed n\u00e1s mlad\u00e1 d\u00edv\u010dina autem odveze k ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed ve m\u011bste\u010dku Skaun<\/strong>, to n\u00e1m v\u0161ak ji\u017e obsadila skupina n\u011bmeck\u00fdch k\u0159es\u0165an\u016f. Pan\u00ed dom\u00e1c\u00ed n\u00e1s ubytuje na sv\u00e9m statku (600 K\u010d\/osobu) a uva\u0159\u00ed vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed poutnickou pol\u00e9vku ze zeleniny a hov\u011bz\u00edho masa. Poprv\u00e9 a naposledy m\u00e1me tepl\u00e9 j\u00eddlo. Spokojeni us\u00edn\u00e1me mezi ply\u0161\u00e1ky v pokoj\u00ed\u010dku majitel\u010din\u00fdch vnou\u010dat. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_10_placeholder\n

MO\u0158E<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Jdeme k pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pr\u0161\u00ed a my se v pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnk\u00e1ch brod\u00edme vlhk\u00fdmi temn\u00fdmi lesy se spoustou hub. Bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme se k Norsk\u00e9mu mo\u0159i, v podve\u010der jej kone\u010dn\u011b zahl\u00e9dneme. Po kluzk\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch se doklop\u00fdt\u00e1me ke kempu \u00d8ysand<\/strong> se spoustou vyh\u0159\u00e1t\u00fdch chatek (1400 K\u010d\/chatka). T\u00e1ta se chce v mo\u0159i vykoupat, nakonec to zavrhne.  Mo\u0159e je \u0161pinav\u00e9 a studen\u00e9. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_11_placeholderTRONDHEIM<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Katedr\u00e1la Nidaros v Trondheimu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Posledn\u00ed den na\u0161\u00ed cesty. Je zn\u00e1t, \u017ee se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme Trondheimu, t\u0159et\u00edmu nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu  m\u011bstu Norska. Rodiny s d\u011btmi, b\u011b\u017eci, cyklist\u00e9, majitel\u00e9 ps\u016f, tolik lid\u00ed jsme u\u017e dlouho nepotkali. Nikdo si n\u00e1s nev\u0161\u00edm\u00e1, neusm\u011bje se a nezdrav\u00ed. Krajina se m\u011bn\u00ed ve sportovn\u00ed park.  A pak se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi otev\u0159e v\u00fdhled na trondheimsk\u00fd fjord a pulsuj\u00edc\u00ed m\u011bsto. Podle zna\u010dek p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k c\u00edli, ke katedr\u00e1le Nidaros. Po t\u0159ech t\u00fddnech a 400 kilometrech v nohou jsme na konci cesty. Zvl\u00e1dli jsme to! Nejsou tu  davy poutn\u00edk\u016f a \u010dekatel\u016f na certifik\u00e1t jako ve \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9m Santiagu. V poutnick\u00e9 kancel\u00e1\u0159i jsme jedin\u00ed. P\u0159ekvapen\u00fd spr\u00e1vce krout\u00ed hlavou, s jak\u00fdm handicapem jsem cestu u\u0161la a zve\u0159ej\u0148uje o n\u00e1s \u010dl\u00e1nek na sv\u00fdch facebookov\u00fdch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch. Jsme jedni z m\u00e1la \u010cech\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed cestu absolvovali.                                                                                                             <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_12_placeholder\n

\"\"<\/a>
Fjord v Thondheimu, jsme na \u00fapln\u00e9m konci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Co \u0159\u00edct z\u00e1v\u011brem<\/strong>?<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Tato cesta nen\u00ed pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho. Pokud m\u00e1te r\u00e1di spole\u010dnost, tepl\u00e9 j\u00eddlo, alkohol, pohodln\u00e9 cesty a slunce, nen\u00ed to ta prav\u00e1 volba pro V\u00e1s. Budete si celou dobu pov\u00eddat sami se sebou, j\u00edst studenou stravu, brodit se ba\u017einami a temn\u00fdmi lesy. A tak\u00e9 platit nek\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 pen\u00edze za ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Odm\u011bnou v\u0161ak bude nedot\u010den\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda a v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fd klid. <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

M\u016e\u017dE SE HODIT<\/div>
**nejlep\u0161\u00ed \u010das, kdy vyrazit, jsou letn\u00ed m\u011bs\u00edce.  I v tuto dobu ob\u010das zmoknete, nezapome\u0148te si pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011bnku<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**restaurace t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 nepotk\u00e1te a j\u00eddlo v nich je velmi drah\u00e9. Supermarkety jsou v ka\u017ed\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku mimo hor Dovrefjell, sem de je pot\u0159eba si ud\u011blat z\u00e1soby<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**sp\u00e1t ve stanu je mo\u017en\u00e9, ale nikoho takov\u00e9ho jsme nepotkali<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**se\u017ee\u0148te si kni\u017en\u00edho pr\u016fvodce, bude se v\u00e1m hodit<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**OFICI\u00c1LN\u00cd WEB POUTN\u00cd CESTY<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**pokud vyu\u017eijete vlak, kupte si l\u00edstek dop\u0159edu (je to mo\u017en\u00e9 3 t\u00fddny p\u0159edem). Velmi drah\u00fd vlak bude a\u017e 3x levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Pokud pojedete nap\u0159. z Trondheimu, vlak zastavuje p\u0159\u00edmo na leti\u0161ti. OFICI\u00c1LN\u00cd WEB NORSK\u00ddCH DRAH<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**je to velmi nam\u00e1hav\u00e1 cesta pro handicapovan\u00e9. Ale nikdy ne\u0159\u00edkej nikdy<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/div><\/div>\n

 <\/span><\/p>\n

HUDEBN\u00cd PREZENTACE POUTN\u00cd CESTY<\/span><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/fb:like><\/div>
<\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Putov\u00e1n\u00ed po nelehk\u00e9 poutn\u00ed cest\u011b svat\u00e9ho Olafa v Norsku. N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 divok\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edroda, barevn\u00e1 v\u0159esovi\u0161t\u011b a hory, kde budete \u00fapln\u011b sami. <\/p>\n

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