{"id":8021,"date":"2021-12-08T23:11:35","date_gmt":"2021-12-08T22:11:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/?p=8021"},"modified":"2022-03-23T22:40:39","modified_gmt":"2022-03-23T21:40:39","slug":"podnestri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/podnestri\/","title":{"rendered":"CO NAV\u0160T\u00cdVIT V PODN\u011aST\u0158\u00cd – KOMPLETN\u00cd PR\u016eVODCE PRO VA\u0160I CESTU"},"content":{"rendered":"

Pokud by v\u00e1s zaj\u00edmalo, jak to kdysi vypadalo v Sov\u011btsk\u00e9m svazu, nemus\u00edte jezdit daleko. P\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 1000 km vzdu\u0161nou \u010darou na v\u00fdchod se nach\u00e1z\u00ed unik\u00e1tn\u00ed sov\u011btsk\u00fd skanzen, o kter\u00e9m jste mo\u017en\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b nikdy nesly\u0161eli. Jen\u017ee takhle zemi\u010dka, kter\u00e1 ofici\u00e1ln\u011b neexistuje, v\u00e1s p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b p\u0159ekvap\u00ed.<\/span> <\/p>\n

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* vysunovac\u00ed pozn\u00e1mky, kter\u00e9 se zobraz\u00ed p\u0159ejet\u00edm my\u0161\u00ed, u mobilu klepnut\u00edm na slovo<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

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Z\u00c1KLADN\u00cd \u00daDAJE<\/div>
\n

\"\"Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed*<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>Cel\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem Podn\u011bstersk\u00e1 moldavsk\u00e1 republika, Moldavan\u00e9 a Rumuni j\u00ed \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed Transnistria, Rusov\u00e9 P\u0159idnestrovie, ob\u010das  se pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 n\u00e1zev Podn\u011bstersko.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> je \u00fazk\u00fd p\u00e1s zem\u011b pod\u00e9l lev\u00e9ho b\u0159ehu \u0159eky Dn\u011bstr, vkl\u00edn\u011bn\u00fd mezi Ukrajinu a Moldavsko. Spolu s N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachem, Abch\u00e1zi\u00ed a Ji\u017en\u00ed Oseti\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed mezi republiky, kter\u00e9 ve sv\u011bt\u011b t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nikdo neuznal. Zab\u00edr\u00e1 rozlohu asi 1\/8 Moldavska, na \u00fazem\u00ed o velikosti Pardubick\u00e9ho kraje*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>4 163 km\u00b2<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> \u017eije 500 000 obyvatel. Domluv\u00edte se zde rusky, p\u00ed\u0161e se azbukou a plat\u00ed podn\u011bstersk\u00fdm rublem. Hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem je Tiraspol.<\/span><\/div><\/div>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Mapa Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Znak Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed a vlajky jin\u00fdch neuznan\u00fdch a sp\u0159\u00edzn\u011bn\u00fdch st\u00e1t\u016f (nap\u0159. Rusko, N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach, Abch\u00e1zie, Ji\u017en\u00ed Osetie apod.)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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PRO POCHOPEN\u00cd SITUACE<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

I kdy\u017e Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed ofici\u00e1ln\u011b pat\u0159\u00ed Moldavsku, na po\u010d\u00e1tku 90. let se od n\u011bj odtrhlo a vytvo\u0159ilo sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed st\u00e1t. Historicky toti\u017e v\u017edy n\u00e1le\u017eelo Rusku a \u017eili zde p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm Rusov\u00e9 a Ukrajinci. Po rozpadu SSSR v 90. letech bylo p\u0159ipojeno k Moldavsku, kter\u00e9 v t\u00e9 dob\u011b usilovalo o znovusjednocen\u00ed s etnicky a jazykov\u011b p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fdm Rumunskem. Jen\u017ee s t\u00edm odli\u0161n\u00e9 obyvatelstvo Podn\u011bsterska nesouhlasilo. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 v\u00e1lce v roce 1992 se od Moldavska odtrhlo a vytvo\u0159ilo sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed nez\u00e1visl\u00fd st\u00e1t. To by samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nikdy nedok\u00e1zalo bez podpory Ruska, kter\u00e9 tu po rozpadu SSSR zanechalo obrovsk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed zbran\u00ed. Slab\u011b vyzbrojen\u00e9mu Moldavsku tedy nezbylo nic jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e se s touto situac\u00ed sm\u00ed\u0159it. Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed si v sou\u010dasnosti \u017eije sv\u00fdm vlastn\u00edm \u017eivotem, m\u00e1 sv\u00e9ho prezidenta, m\u011bnu, soudy a samospr\u00e1vu. Dnes by v\u0161ak tento nejchud\u0161\u00ed kout Evropy bez masivn\u00ed finan\u010dn\u00ed podpory Ruska ji\u017e d\u00e1vno zbankrotoval. Naopak Rusku se velmi hod\u00ed m\u00edt vliv a strategicky um\u00edst\u011bnou arm\u00e1du t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 na okraji Evropsk\u00e9 unie. Oproti jin\u00fdm neuznan\u00fdm republik\u00e1m m\u00e1 Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed s Moldavskem vcelku dobr\u00e9 vztahy, hranice mezi zem\u011bmi jsou otev\u0159eny, lid\u00e9 a zbo\u017e\u00ed tu vesele proud\u00ed a mezi etniky nepanuje nen\u00e1vist. Pro zaj\u00edmavost: nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm st\u00e1tn\u00edm sv\u00e1tkem je Den Podn\u011bstersk\u00e9 moldavsk\u00e9 republiky, kter\u00fd se slav\u00ed 2. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed.<\/span><\/div><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\nPR\u016eVODCE MOLDAVSKEM<\/span><\/a>\n

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P\u0158\u00cdJEZD DO PODN\u011aST\u0158\u00cd<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Pohled z moldavsk\u00e9 strany na Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed, le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed za lev\u00e9m b\u0159ehu \u0159eky Dn\u011bstr<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Leteck\u00e9 spojen\u00ed neexistuje, dostat se sem d\u00e1 pouze po silnici z Ukrajiny*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>Nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed leti\u0161t\u011b je v Od\u011bse, odkud sem vede cesta.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> nebo mnohem sn\u00e1ze z Moldavska. B\u011bhem dne jezd\u00ed z centr\u00e1ln\u00edho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v Ki\u0161in\u011bv\u011b do Tiraspolu a zp\u011bt ka\u017edou hodinu minibus. L\u00edstek se kupuje na m\u00edst\u011b, cesta trv\u00e1 okolo dvou hodin. V\u011bt\u0161ina turist\u016f se v Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed zdr\u017e\u00ed jen jeden den, co\u017e je docela \u0161koda. Kdy\u017e se na hranic\u00edch voj\u00e1ci v uniform\u00e1ch p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed doby SSSR ptaj\u00ed, na jak dlouho chceme v\u00edzum, vyhrknu, \u017ee na t\u0159i dny. Zeptaj\u00ed se, kde budeme bydlet, do pasu vlo\u017e\u00ed pap\u00edrek s v\u00edzem (kter\u00fd si p\u0159i zp\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed cest\u011b vezmou zp\u011bt) a m\u016f\u017eeme jet. Z cel\u00e9ho minibusu si o v\u00edza jdeme za\u017e\u00e1dat jen my. U\u017e tady si v\u0161imnu mnohem p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u011bj\u0161\u00ed povahy lid\u00ed oproti sousedn\u00edmu Moldavsku.<\/span><\/p>\n

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PEN\u00cdZE<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
N\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v Tiraspolu, kde si m\u016f\u017eete po p\u0159\u00edjezdu vym\u011bnit pen\u00edze. Banka je to mal\u00e9 ok\u00e9nko napravo<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Prvn\u00ed, co mus\u00edme na tiraspolsk\u00e9m n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed ud\u011blat, je sm\u011bnit pen\u00edze na podn\u011bstersk\u00e9 rubly. Bankomaty ani platebn\u00ed karty tu nefunguj\u00ed a ni\u010d\u00edm jin\u00fdm se ofici\u00e1ln\u011b platit ned\u00e1. Neofici\u00e1ln\u011b v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b ano. Pen\u00edze m\u011bn\u00edme v \u201ebance\u201c, u mal\u00e9ho ok\u00e9nka hned vedle vchodu do n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. V centru m\u011bsta jsou dal\u0161\u00ed sm\u011bn\u00e1rny, dokonce i na po\u0161t\u011b. Hodn\u011b popul\u00e1rn\u00ed plastov\u00e9 kop\u011bjky, kter\u00e9 si turist\u00e9 r\u00e1di voz\u00edvaj\u00ed dom\u016f jako suven\u00fdr, u\u017e se tu z\u0159ejm\u011b nepou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed. Aspo\u0148 n\u00e1m je nikdo nesm\u011bnil.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DOPRAVA V PODN\u011aST\u0158\u00cd<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Trolejbusy a mar\u0161rutky<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Po Tiraspolu a v Benderu jezd\u00ed retro trolejbusy, dal\u0161\u00ed mo\u017enost\u00ed jsou pak dod\u00e1vky mar\u0161rutky, kter\u00fdmi se dostanete i do vzd\u00e1len\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kout\u016f zem\u011b. Jsou neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b levn\u00e9. My vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm taxi. Ta ale v\u016fbec nereaguj\u00ed na m\u00e1vnut\u00ed na ulici, jsou velmi vyt\u00ed\u017een\u00e1 a mus\u00ed v\u00e1m je n\u011bkdo objednat telefonem. Klidn\u011b prodava\u010dka v trafice nebo n\u00e1hodn\u00fd chodec na ulici, tak jako n\u00e1m. V c\u00edli pak z \u0159idi\u010dova smartphonu v\u017edy zazn\u00ed fanf\u00e1ra a ozn\u00e1men\u00ed, kolik m\u00e1me zaplatit. V\u011bt\u0161inou okolo 30 rubl\u016f, tedy 30 K\u010d.  Mile m\u011b p\u0159ekvapilo, \u017ee se n\u00e1s ani jednou \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd taxik\u00e1\u0159 nesna\u017eil o\u0161idit. Mo\u017en\u00e1 ale proto, \u017ee na v\u0161e tu dohl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed velk\u00fd \u0160erif.<\/span><\/p>\n

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UBYTOV\u00c1N\u00cd<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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V centru Tiraspolu najdete spoustu ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed, od byt\u016f po luxusn\u00ed hotely (na sn\u00edmku ulice 25. \u0159\u00edjna)<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Na bookingu a airbnb najdete spoustu ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00fdch cenov\u00fdch kategori\u00ed. P\u016fvodn\u011b rezervuji levn\u00fd hostel, na m\u00edst\u011b ale zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o byt v panel\u00e1ku. A to i s majitelem. B\u00fdval\u00fd rusk\u00fd n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edk, kter\u00fd \u017eil dlouho v USA a mluv\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u011b anglicky, m\u00e1 r\u00e1d turisty a pron\u00e1jmem si p\u0159ilep\u0161uje k penzi. Byt i cel\u00fd panel\u00e1k vypadaj\u00ed jako ty u n\u00e1s v 70. letech minul\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed, kontrastem k tomu je jeho drah\u00fd zna\u010dkov\u00fd notebook a rychl\u00e1 WIFI. Je ohromn\u011b p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fd, r\u00e1d porad\u00ed a bez probl\u00e9mu ch\u00e1pe, \u017ee hled\u00e1me sp\u00ed\u0161e soukrom\u00ed. Nakonec zakotv\u00edme v pom\u011brn\u011b drah\u00e9m City Club Hotel (boking.com). Te\u010f v dob\u011b covidu tu jsme \u00fapln\u011b sami, p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e1 temperamentn\u00ed recep\u010dn\u00ed se m\u016f\u017ee p\u0159etrhnout, aby n\u00e1m splnila v\u0161echna na\u0161e p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed. V\u00fdborn\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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INTERNET A WIFI<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

V Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed z\u0159ejm\u011b maj\u00ed sv\u00e9ho vlastn\u00edho oper\u00e1tora, proto\u017ee tu krom\u011b pohrani\u010d\u00ed s Moldavskem t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nem\u00e1me sign\u00e1l. V restaurac\u00edch, barech a v ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed wifi funguje skv\u011ble.<\/span><\/p>\n

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J\u00cdDLO, PIT\u00cd A CENY<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Nep\u0159ebern\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed pivn\u00edch p\u00edp v pivnici Craft<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zdej\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdbornou kuchyni tvo\u0159\u00ed mix moldavsk\u00e9 (rumunsk\u00e9), rusk\u00e9 a ukrajinsk\u00e9. To\u010d\u00ed tu dobr\u00e9 pivo v\u010detn\u011b Staropramenu, nal\u00e9vaj\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00e9 v\u00edno a stejn\u011b jako v Moldavsku maj\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00e9 Mojito za 65 K\u010d. Prost\u011b ceny za hubi\u010dku. P\u0159ekvapen\u00edm je modern\u00ed pivnice\/sport bar Craft<\/strong> s nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed plazmovou televiz\u00ed, jakou jsme kdy vid\u011bli a ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed mno\u017estv\u00ed pivn\u00edch p\u00edp, op\u011bt v\u010detn\u011b Staropramenu. V\u0159ele tak\u00e9 doporu\u010duji zaj\u00edt si na sn\u00eddani do nefal\u0161ovan\u00e9 sov\u011btsk\u00e9 kant\u00fdny.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

LID\u00c9 A \u017dIVOT<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Poz\u016fstatky d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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To, co se n\u00e1m na Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed l\u00edb\u00ed nejv\u00edce, jsou lid\u00e9. Oproti nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 vesel\u00e9 moldavsk\u00e9 povaze jsou m\u00edstn\u00ed mnohem komunikativn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, veselej\u0161\u00ed a p\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Abychom se dozv\u011bd\u011bli v\u00edce o \u017eivot\u011b v Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed, vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me walking tour nad\u0161en\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce Antona Dendemarchenko<\/strong>, kter\u00fd skv\u011ble mluv\u00ed anglicky. B\u011bhem <\/span>dvouhodinov\u00e9 proch\u00e1zky (m\u016f\u017eete zvolit i celodenn\u00ed) n\u00e1s provede po v\u00edce \u010di m\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fdch m\u00edstech v Tiraspolu a bl\u00edzk\u00e9ho okol\u00ed. Dozv\u00edme se spoustu zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed o zdej\u0161\u00edm \u017eivot\u011b, ukazuje sv\u016fj ob\u010dansk\u00fd pr\u016fkaz, pap\u00edrovou kn\u00ed\u017eku, do kter\u00e9 se zapisuj\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00e9 \u017eivotn\u00ed \u00fadaje, jako t\u0159eba svatba nebo narozen\u00ed syna. Je o trochu v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ta, kter\u00e1 se u n\u00e1s pou\u017e\u00edvala za dob tuh\u00e9ho socialismu. Proto\u017ee podn\u011bstersk\u00fd pas nikde neuzn\u00e1vaj\u00ed, m\u00edstn\u00ed se m\u016f\u017eou rozhodnout, zda si po\u0159\u00edd\u00ed rusk\u00fd \u010di moldavsk\u00fd, p\u0159i tro\u0161e \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed i rumunsk\u00fd. Tuto walking tour v\u0161em v\u0159ele doporu\u010duji. Kontakt na Antona: INSTAGRAM<\/a>, TRIPADVISOR<\/a>, FACEBOOK<\/a>, WEB<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00fdhled na Tiraspol z jednoho ze star\u00fdch panel\u00e1k\u016f<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Z nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch pater panel\u00e1ku m\u00e1me hezk\u00fd v\u00fdhled na zelenou metropoli, stav zdej\u0161\u00edch dom\u016f je v\u0161ak \u017ealostn\u00fd. Aspo\u0148 tedy oproti na\u0161emu evropsk\u00e9mu standardu. Jsou \u0161ediv\u00e9, neopravovan\u00e9, beznad\u011bj a n\u00edzk\u00e1 \u017eivotn\u00ed \u00farove\u0148 je vid\u011bt na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku. Nen\u00ed to tak d\u00e1vno, co se tu d\u016fchody pohybovaly okolo 1000 K\u010d m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u011b. Mlad\u00ed lid\u00e9 odch\u00e1z\u00ed za prac\u00ed do zahrani\u010d\u00ed, vylid\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed zem\u011b je velk\u00fdm probl\u00e9mem, stejn\u011b jako v sousedn\u00edm Moldavsku. <\/span><\/p>\n

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KDO JE <\/span><\/span><\/strong>\u0160ERIF?<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0160erif tu vlastn\u00ed t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u0161e<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed skoro v\u0161e vlastn\u00ed \u0160erif (Sheriff). Benz\u00ednov\u00e9 pumpy, supermarkety, m\u00edstn\u00ed televizi a noviny, mobiln\u00ed s\u00ed\u0165, hotely, restaurace, lik\u00e9rku Kvint, zcela nov\u00e9 sportovi\u0161t\u011b s ohromuj\u00edc\u00edm stadionem a samoz\u0159ejm\u011b i zn\u00e1m\u00fd fotbalov\u00fd klub, kter\u00fd se jmenuje….. Jak jinak ne\u017e FC Sheriff Tiraspol. Za t\u00edmto jm\u00e9nem se pr\u00fd skr\u00fdvaj\u00ed dva v\u00fdznamn\u00ed ru\u0161t\u00ed podnikatel\u00e9, jin\u00e9 zdroje ale ukazuj\u00ed na zapojen\u00ed syna b\u00fdval\u00e9ho prezidenta I. Smirnova. Kdy\u017e se opatrn\u011b pt\u00e1m, kdo to vlastn\u011b \u0160eriff je, kloudn\u00e9 odpov\u011bdi se nedo\u010dk\u00e1m……<\/span><\/p>\n

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CO V\u0160E V PODN\u011aST\u0158\u00cd NAV\u0160T\u00cdVIT:<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

TIRASPOL<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Socha V. I. Lenina p\u0159ed Domem sov\u011bt\u016f <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto Podn\u011bsterska le\u017e\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo na b\u0159ehu \u0159eky Dn\u011bstr. Te\u010f v \u010dervenci na m\u011b centrum p\u016fsob\u00ed moc hezky, je \u010dist\u00e9, zelen\u00e9, silnice lemuj\u00ed aleje zdrav\u00fdch strom\u016f a \u0159eku p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fd park. U\u017e ch\u00e1pu, pro\u010d se Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 sov\u011btsk\u00fd skanzen. Na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku nar\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na sochy Lenina, srpy a kladiva na znaku zem\u011b, jezdeckou sochu rusk\u00e9ho vojev\u016fdce Suvorova, pam\u00e1tn\u00edk ve tvaru MIG-19. Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ulice se jmenuj\u00ed Leninova a 25. \u0159\u00edjna. Budova parlamentu nebo D\u016fm sov\u011bt\u016f \u010dasy komunismu prost\u011b nezap\u0159ou. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Katedr\u00e1la Narozen\u00ed Krista<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou ale zdej\u0161\u00ed kontrasty. Vedle rachotin z dob Michaila S. Gorba\u010dova br\u00e1zd\u00ed silnice modern\u00ed nale\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 bour\u00e1ky, za rusk\u00fdm tankem T-34-85, pam\u00e1tn\u00edkem na v\u00e1lku v roce 1992, stoj\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pravoslavn\u00fd Kostel sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed. \u017de v\u0161ichni m\u00edstn\u00ed maj\u00ed modern\u00ed smartphony je samoz\u0159ejmost\u00ed. A to nemluv\u011b o fotbalov\u00e9m stadionu, kter\u00fd p\u0159ed\u010d\u00ed i ty nejvyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v z\u00e1padn\u00ed Evrop\u011b. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

RYB\u00cd \u201eZ\u00c1VOD\u201c AQUATIR<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n