{"id":6083,"date":"2020-06-25T17:18:49","date_gmt":"2020-06-25T16:18:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=6083"},"modified":"2020-09-03T21:36:18","modified_gmt":"2020-09-03T20:36:18","slug":"severovychodni-turecko-yusufeli-a-sumela","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/severovychodni-turecko-yusufeli-a-sumela\/","title":{"rendered":"SEVEROV\u00ddCHODN\u00cd TURECKO – KA\u010cKAR & KL\u00c1\u0160TER SUMELA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Malebn\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko Yusufeli v poho\u0159\u00ed Ka\u010dkar a dech berouc\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161ter Sumela, doslova p\u0159ilepen\u00fd na strm\u00e9m horsk\u00e9m \u00fatesu. Tohle byste ur\u010dit\u011b nem\u011bli vynechat na sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch po odlehl\u00e9m tureck\u00e9m severov\u00fdchod\u011b.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00e1 oblast<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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*vysunovac\u00ed pozn\u00e1mky, kter\u00e9 se zobraz\u00ed p\u0159ejet\u00edm my\u0161\u00ed, u mobilu klepnut\u00edm na slovo<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

YUSUFELI<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Divok\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty poho\u0159\u00ed Ka\u010dkar<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Hlavn\u00ed silnice na trase Kars \u2013 Atvin je lemov\u00e1na opravdu n\u00e1dhernou horskou krajinou. \u0158idi\u010d autobusu n\u00e1s na po\u017e\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed vysazuje na benz\u00ednov\u00e9 pump\u011b, do m\u011bste\u010dka Yusufeli je to je\u0161t\u011b dal\u0161\u00edch sedm kilometr\u016f. M\u016f\u017eeme j\u00edt p\u011b\u0161ky, stopovat, za poplatek se ale svezeme autem. Ur\u010dit\u011b tu \u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1 na autobus.<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u011bste\u010dko Yusufeli obklopen\u00e9 horami<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Mal\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>6500 obyvatel<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> Yusufeli, le\u017e\u00ed v zelen\u00e9m \u00fadol\u00ed na soutoku \u0159ek \u00c7oruh a Barhal. V\u0161ude okolo se vyp\u00ednaj\u00ed vysok\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty ji\u017en\u00edho Ka\u010dkaru, a pr\u00e1v\u011b vysokohorsk\u00e1 turistika s raftingem sem l\u00e1kaj\u00ed nem\u00e1lo n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Drsn\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty vyprahl\u00e9ho ji\u017en\u00edho Ka\u010dkaru<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00edky sv\u00e9 odlehlosti se tu dochovaly gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9 kostely, pevnosti a kl\u00e1\u0161tery. Mezi nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed Ishan a Parhal. Za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu stoj\u00ed i nedalek\u00e1 jeskyn\u011b Savangin s prav\u011bk\u00fdmi kresbami a n\u00e1pisy, kter\u00e9 dosud nikdo nerozlu\u0161til.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Na divok\u00e9 \u0159ece \u00c7oruh je nejpopul\u00e1rn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm sportem rafting<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je to nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na na\u0161\u00ed tureck\u00e9 cest\u011b. Te\u010f v kv\u011btnu jsme tu skoro sami. Skalnat\u00e9 svahy na ji\u017en\u00ed stran\u011b Ka\u010dkaru p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed Vysok\u00e9 Tatry. Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed stejnojmenn\u00e1 hora je se svou v\u00fd\u0161kou 3923 m \u010dtvrtou nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed v Turecku. Zdej\u0161\u00ed zimy jsou velmi drsn\u00e9. Poho\u0159\u00ed se t\u00e1hne a\u017e k \u010cern\u00e9mu mo\u0159i, kde zachyt\u00e1v\u00e1 ve\u0161ker\u00e9 sr\u00e1\u017eky. Zdej\u0161\u00ed klima je naopak celoro\u010dn\u011b velmi de\u0161tiv\u00e9 a vlhk\u00e9 s m\u00edrn\u00fdmi teplotami. Skv\u011ble se tu da\u0159\u00ed \u010daji, poch\u00e1z\u00ed odtud v\u011bt\u0161ina tureck\u00e9 produkce. Je ale zn\u00e1t, \u017ee okol\u00ed Yusufeli je dosti chud\u00e9, nen\u00ed tu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd pr\u016fmysl, minim\u00e1ln\u00ed zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed a spousta mlad\u00fdch odch\u00e1z\u00ed za lep\u0161\u00edm \u017eivotem do m\u011bst. Tak tomu bylo v roce 2012.<\/span><\/p>\n

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T\u011b\u017ek\u00fd \u017eivot m\u00edstn\u00edch v tomto velmi chud\u00e9m regionu. Mnoho mlad\u00fdch lid\u00ed odch\u00e1z\u00ed za lep\u0161\u00edm \u017eivotem do m\u011bst.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cel\u00e1 tato n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 krajina se sv\u00fdmi pam\u00e1tkami, neporu\u0161enou p\u0159\u00edrodou a divok\u00fdmi zv\u00ed\u0159aty mo\u017en\u00e1 u\u017e brzy nebude. V roce 2020 je pl\u00e1nov\u00e1no zprovozn\u011bn\u00ed kontroverzn\u00ed p\u0159ehrady Yusufeli na \u0159ece \u00c7oruh a m\u011bste\u010dko spolu s okoln\u00edmi maj\u00ed b\u00fdt zaplaveny vodou. D\u016fvody jsou \u010dist\u011b ekonomick\u00e9 a technologick\u00e9, bez ohledu na m\u00edstn\u00ed obyvatele a p\u0159\u00edrodu.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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TRABZON<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Minaret trabzonsk\u00e9 me\u0161ity <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Trabzon je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm tureck\u00fdm m\u011bstem na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed \u010cern\u00e9ho mo\u0159e, nepo\u010d\u00edt\u00e1me-li Istanbul. D\u0159\u00edve byl d\u016fle\u017eitou k\u0159i\u017eovatkou obchodu s \u00cdr\u00e1nem, Gruzi\u00ed a Ruskem. Dnes je to pom\u011brn\u011b modern\u00ed a \u017eiv\u00e9 m\u011bsto s minimem pam\u00e1tek. Zdej\u0161\u00ed pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je zcela odli\u0161n\u00e9 od sluncem zalit\u00fdch p\u00edse\u010dn\u00fdch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed v Bulharsku. Hodn\u011b tu pr\u0161\u00ed, vlhkost je vysok\u00e1 a oblast se vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm k lodn\u00ed n\u00e1kladn\u00ed doprav\u011b. Letoviska a p\u0159\u00edv\u011btiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed po\u010das\u00ed najdeme a\u017e d\u00e1le na severov\u00fdchod v Gruzii okolo m\u011bsta Batumi.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Pohled na m\u011bsto a \u010cern\u00e9 mo\u0159e z vyhl\u00eddky Boztepe n\u00e1m kaz\u00ed de\u0161tiv\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Za zm\u00ednku stoj\u00ed vyhl\u00eddka Boztepe, odkud je kr\u00e1sn\u00fd pohled na mo\u0159e a m\u011bsto. A ur\u010dit\u011b si na n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed dejte \u010derstvou rybu, kterou v\u00e1m ryb\u00e1\u0159i hned ugriluj\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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KL\u00c1\u0160TER SUMELA <\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Naprosto \u00fachvatn\u00fd pohled na kl\u00e1\u0161ter Sumela p\u0159ilepen\u00fd na \u00fatesu nad hlubok\u00fdm \u00fadol\u00edm<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Asi hodinu j\u00edzdy dolmu\u0161em jihov\u00fdchodn\u011b od Trabzonu se nach\u00e1z\u00ed n\u00e1rodn\u00ed park Altindere, v jeho\u017e nitru se ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 neoby\u010dejn\u00fd architektonick\u00fd skvost. Sumela, \u0159eck\u00fd  pravoslavn\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter. Je doslova p\u0159ilepen\u00fd na skaln\u00ed st\u011bn\u011b hory Mela ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 1200 m.n.m. V r. 386 jej zalo\u017eili dva \u0159e\u010dt\u00ed mni\u0161i*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Barnab\u00e1\u0161 a Sofronius<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> a kl\u00e1\u0161ter byl ur\u010den v\u00fdhradn\u011b mu\u017e\u016fm. Sou\u010dasnou podobu z\u00edskal a\u017e ve 13. stol. Po \u0159ecko-tureck\u00e9 v\u00e1lce v letech 1919-20 byl zcela opu\u0161t\u011bn, d\u00edlo zk\u00e1zy dokonal po\u017e\u00e1r v r. 1930 a lupi\u010di. Od r. 2012 je na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed znovu restaurov\u00e1n.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Strm\u00e9 schodi\u0161t\u011b do kl\u00e1\u0161tera<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Stavby jsou do skal p\u0159\u00edmo vlepeny<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Z parkovi\u0161t\u011b jdeme po kluzk\u00e9 cest\u011b je\u0161t\u011b asi kilometr do kopce, ne\u017e naraz\u00edme na strm\u00e9 schodi\u0161t\u011b. Uvnit\u0159 p\u011btipatrov\u00e9 budovy se nach\u00e1zej\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed prostory, knihovna a jeskynn\u00ed kostel. Mnich\u016fm byly ur\u010deny mal\u00e9 cely. Vn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed i vnit\u0159n\u00ed st\u011bny zdob\u00ed fresky biblick\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f, jsou bohu\u017eel zna\u010dn\u011b poni\u010den\u00e9 vandaly a pov\u011btrnostn\u00edmi vlivy. Nej\u00fachvatn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed je ale v\u00fdhled do hlubok\u00e9ho zelen\u00e9ho \u00fadol\u00ed. V hor\u00e1ch je pr\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f v\u00edce, Sumela je ale nejdostupn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a nejnav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Uvnit\u0159 p\u011btipatrov\u00e9ho kl\u00e1\u0161tera<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Tento odlehl\u00fd a turisty trochu opom\u00edjen\u00fd kout Turecka ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu a j\u00e1 osobn\u011b se sem v budoucnu moc r\u00e1da vr\u00e1t\u00edm.<\/span><\/p>\n