{"id":5537,"date":"2020-01-09T00:58:25","date_gmt":"2020-01-08T23:58:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=5537"},"modified":"2020-08-13T22:29:48","modified_gmt":"2020-08-13T21:29:48","slug":"kolumbie-4-v-cali-se-skvele-kali","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/kolumbie-4-v-cali-se-skvele-kali\/","title":{"rendered":"KOLUMBIE (4): V CALI SE SKV\u011aLE KAL\u00cd"},"content":{"rendered":"

Do Cali, tepaj\u00edc\u00edho v \u017eiveln\u00e9m rytmu salsy, jsme v\u016fbec nem\u011bli v pl\u00e1nu jet. I p\u0159es v\u0161echna varov\u00e1n\u00ed pro n\u00e1s bylo nakonec t\u00edm nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u011bstem z cel\u00e9 Kolumbie!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Cali, oficil\u00e1n\u00edm n\u00e1zvem Santiago de Cali,<\/strong> je t\u0159et\u00edm nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed m\u011bstem*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>2,5 mil. obyvatel<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> Kolumbie. Le\u017e\u00ed mezi Kordillerami v departmentu Valle de Cauca<\/strong> na jihoz\u00e1pad\u011b zem\u011b. I p\u0159es nadmo\u0159skou v\u00fd\u0161ku 1000 m. n. m. je zde vlhko a stra\u0161n\u00e9 horko.<\/span>
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Mapa<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cel\u00e1 oblast je proslul\u00e1 vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed kriminalitou. Tak t\u0159eba zn\u00e1m\u00fd drogov\u00fd kartel v Cali, kter\u00fd se kdysi trhl od Pabla Escobara. Pr\u00fd ovl\u00e1dal a\u017e 90 % sv\u011btov\u00e9ho, hlavn\u011b evropsk\u00e9ho kokainov\u00e9ho trhu. A st\u00e1le ovl\u00e1d\u00e1. Zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e1 opatrnost je t\u0159eba na odlehl\u00e9m venkov\u011b, zejm\u00e9na v Choc\u00f3.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mal\u00e1 \u201e<\/strong>cale\u00f1a“<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Z Neivy p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Cali*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>8 hodin autobusem<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed sv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00edm. Nem\u00e1me strach, u\u017e jsme si zvykli. Zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9, potomci afrokolumbijc\u016f p\u0159ezd\u00edvan\u00ed \u201ecale\u00f1os“<\/strong>, jsou o dost tmav\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e v ostatn\u00edch \u010d\u00e1stech zem\u011b. Zapadneme mezi n\u011b do bufetu na sn\u00eddani a rann\u00ed k\u00e1vu. Jsme tu jen chv\u00edli, ale stra\u0161n\u011b se n\u00e1m tu l\u00edb\u00ed!<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00fdhled z na\u0161eho pokoje<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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P\u0159ipl\u00e1c\u00edme si za trochu lep\u0161\u00ed hotel Plaza las Am\u00e9ricas<\/a>. 38 USD za dvojl\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd pokoj se sn\u00eddan\u00ed n\u00e1s ale finan\u010dn\u011b nezruinuje. Po dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me <\/span>prostorn\u00e9ho pokoje s terasou. Balkonov\u00e9 dve\u0159e sice nejdou dov\u0159\u00edt, na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed n\u00e1s ale nikdo p\u00e1r skoky z ulice nevykrade. Tepl\u00e1 voda te\u010de a\u017e pot\u00e9, co n\u00e1m ji polad\u00ed oprav\u00e1\u0159. Ve st\u00e1nku p\u0159ed hotelem d\u011blaj\u00ed vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed pln\u011bn\u00e9 kuku\u0159i\u010dn\u00e9 placky. Lep\u0161\u00ed arepas jsem v Kolumbii nejedla! Za rohem m\u00e1me mal\u00fd obchod s ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed nab\u00eddkou exotick\u00e9ho, \u010dasto zcela nezn\u00e1m\u00e9ho ovoce.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u016fbe netu\u0161\u00edm, co jsem si to koupila za ovoce
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V\u0161ude hraje \u017eiveln\u00e1 hudba. Z aut, taxi, obchod\u016f, domk\u016f v zapadl\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch. Jak by ne, jsme v hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b salsy!
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SV\u011aTOV\u00c9 M\u011aSTO SALSY<\/strong> <\/span><\/p>\n

Salsa je neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00e1 sm\u011bsice mexick\u00e9, kub\u00e1nsk\u00e9 a portorick\u00e9 hudby s p\u0159\u00edm\u011bs\u00ed jazzu, rocku a afroamerick\u00fdch rytm\u016f. Zdej\u0161\u00ed osobit\u00fd styl salsa cale\u00f1a se line ulicemi Cali u\u017e od 30. let 20. stolet\u00ed. M\u00eds\u00ed se v n\u00ed n\u011bkolik \u017e\u00e1nr\u016f: bugalu, charanga nebo pachanga. D\u0159\u00edve pat\u0159ila salsa v\u00fdhradn\u011b do chud\u0161\u00edch spole\u010densk\u00fdch vrstev, brzy se v\u0161ak roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila i do vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch kruh\u016f. Z\u00e1klady salsy v\u00e1s nau\u010d\u00ed v n\u011bkter\u00e9m z mnoha zdej\u0161\u00edch kurz\u016f.<\/span> <\/div><\/div>\n

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Tax\u00edkem vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme do boh\u00e9msk\u00e9 \u010dtvrti San<\/strong> Antonio*<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span>Barrio San Antonio<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>. Kolem malebn\u00fdch barevn\u00fdch dome\u010dk\u016f vyjdeme na kopec ke kostel\u00edku. Je odtud par\u00e1dn\u00ed v\u00fdhled. V nedalek\u00e9m Parque San Antonio<\/strong>, kde zrovna piknikuj\u00ed  rodiny s d\u011btmi, n\u00e1s fascinuje router zav\u011b\u0161en\u00fd na strom\u011b. D\u00edky siln\u00e9 ve\u0159ejn\u00e9 wifi bez probl\u00e9m\u016f ukazuji rodi\u010d\u016fm m\u011bsto p\u0159es videohovor. M\u00edstn\u00ed sice moc p\u00edt na ve\u0159ejnost nechod\u00ed, v barech a restaurac\u00edch to v\u0161ak \u017eije. I my si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me slun\u00ed\u010dka, koktejly a pohodovou atmosf\u00e9ru. <\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00fdhled na Cali z boh\u00e9msk\u00e9ho San Antonia<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kdy\u017e se ale mil\u00e9ho \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edka pt\u00e1m, odkud je, odpov\u00ed: \u201eVenezuela\u201c. Hned mi sklapne. Nech\u00e1v\u00e1me mu velik\u00e9 d\u00fd\u0161ko. R\u00e1d by se vr\u00e1til dom\u016f, ale nejde to. Vedle uprchlick\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora v Ipi\u00e1les na ekv\u00e1dorsk\u00e9 hranici potk\u00e1v\u00e1me nejv\u00edce Venezuelan\u016f pr\u00e1v\u011b v Cali. Jakmile zastav\u00ed auto, nej\u010dast\u011bji taxi s pasa\u017e\u00e1ry na \u010dervenou, hned se k n\u011bmu seb\u011bhnou mlad\u00edci a um\u00fdvaj\u00ed okna. Venezuelci, kte\u0159\u00ed se sna\u017e\u00ed vyd\u011blat, jak se d\u00e1. <\/span><\/p>\n

Do hotelu se vrac\u00edme a\u017e v noci. Taxik\u00e1\u0159 n\u00e1s ale upozor\u0148uje, a\u0165 u\u017e za tmy hlavn\u011b nikam nechod\u00edme.<\/span><\/p>\n

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NextGEN Gallery<\/h3>\n
\n \tUpravit\n <\/div>\n
\n \tSmazat\n <\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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Moc hezk\u00e9 je i n\u00e1b\u0159e\u017e\u00ed \u0159eky Cali Malec\u00f3n<\/strong> nebo rezervace El Ponce<\/strong> kousek za m\u011bstem. Dal\u0161\u00ed den jedeme na v\u00fdlet do San Cipriana. \u017div\u00e9 autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed La Terminal<\/strong> p\u0159ekypuje st\u00e1nky s pouli\u010dn\u00edm j\u00eddlem a ovocem. <\/span><\/p>\n

Mrz\u00ed m\u011b, \u017ee jsme tu nestr\u00e1vili v\u00edce dn\u00ed. M\u00e1lo turistick\u00e9 Cali a okol\u00ed<\/strong> n\u00e1s uchv\u00e1tilo svou nefal\u0161ovanou kolumbijskou atmosf\u00e9rou<\/strong> a \u017eivelnost\u00ed. Kdybych se n\u011bkam m\u011bla vr\u00e1tit, tak uri\u010dit\u011b sem! <\/span><\/p>\n

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OBJEVTE <\/strong><\/span>TICHOMO\u0158SK\u00c9 POB\u0158E\u017d<\/strong>\u00cd <\/span><\/p>\n

Dnes tak\u00e9 lituji, \u017ee jsme Karibik nevym\u011bnili za p\u00e1r dn\u00ed u Pacifiku. Zahrani\u010dn\u00edmi turisty zat\u00edm m\u00e1lo nav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u00e1 oblast je se zbytkem Kolumbie spojena jedinou silnic\u00ed Cali\u2013Buenaventura<\/strong>, po kter\u00e9 jedeme do San Cipriana. Okoln\u00ed krajina je \u00fachvatn\u00e1. Kv\u016fli neexistuj\u00edc\u00ed infrastruktu\u0159e, pralesu a \u0159\u00ed\u010dn\u00edm tok\u016fm se zde cestuje p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm na lod\u00edch nebo mal\u00fdmi letad\u00fdlky. Nejp\u0159\u00edstupn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed je okol\u00ed El Valle <\/strong>a Ladrilleros<\/strong>. Doporu\u010duje se p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b i Choc<\/strong>\u00f3, kde m\u00edstn\u00ed pr\u016fvodci prov\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed turisty do d\u017eungle, mangrovov\u00fdch les\u016f nebo po \u0159ek\u00e1ch. Velmi popul\u00e1rn\u00ed jsou v\u00fdlety za velrybami \u010di programy na z\u00e1chranu \u017eelv. Pokud se kv\u016fli bezpe\u010dnosti ob\u00e1v\u00e1te vyrazit sami, vyu\u017eijte cestovn\u00ed agenturu. M\u011b osobn\u011b zaujaly kladn\u00e9 reference na VALLEY ADVENTOURS<\/strong> (Carerra 9 No: 3-01\/San Antonio Neighborhood\/Cali, tel.:  300 754 9188, 300 774 8605, web: ZDE<\/a>), kter\u00e1 nab\u00edz\u00ed v\u00fdlet do San Cipriana (56 USD), okoln\u00ed krajiny, pozorov\u00e1n\u00ed velryb nebo prohl\u00eddku Cali. Po dlouh\u00e9m rozhodov\u00e1n\u00ed ji nakonec nevyu\u017eijeme a do San Cipriana vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na vlastn\u00ed p\u011bst.<\/span><\/div><\/div>\n

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