{"id":4575,"date":"2019-06-20T21:39:15","date_gmt":"2019-06-20T20:39:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=4575"},"modified":"2024-01-20T12:22:48","modified_gmt":"2024-01-20T11:22:48","slug":"cesta-smrti-do-pohadkove-tusetie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/cesta-smrti-do-pohadkove-tusetie\/","title":{"rendered":"CESTA SMRTI DO POH\u00c1DKOV\u00c9 TU\u0160ETIE"},"content":{"rendered":"

Daleko v kavkazsk\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch le\u017e\u00ed Tu\u0161etie. Nejzapadlej\u0161\u00ed kout Gruzie s poh\u00e1dkov\u011b kr\u00e1snou p\u0159\u00edrodou. Moc turist\u016f tu v\u0161ak nepotk\u00e1te. Vede sem toti\u017e jedna z nejnebezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch cest sv\u011bta. Cesta smrti.<\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 gruz\u00ednsk\u00e1 vlajka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mapa Tu\u0161etie a Kachetie<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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*vysunovac\u00ed pozn\u00e1mky, kter\u00e9 uvid\u00edte klepnut\u00edm na slovo<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Jedin\u00e1 cesta do Tu\u0161etie*<\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span>naz\u00fdv\u00e1 se tak\u00e9 Thu\u0161sko<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> je ter\u00e9nn\u00edm autem z gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9ho kraje v\u00edna  – z Kachetie. Auto zajist\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00fd hotel v m\u011bstech Telavi<\/strong> a Alvani<\/strong>, pop\u0159. v Tbilisi.<\/strong> R\u00e1di bychom se s n\u011bk\u00fdm pod\u011blili o n\u00e1klady na d\u017e\u00edp, nikoho v\u0161ak nese\u017eeneme. A tak jedeme s Kubou sami dva z Telavi<\/strong> za 250 gruz\u00ednsk\u00fdch lari*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>1 GEL= 8,60 K\u010d<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, v p\u0159epo\u010dtu 2150 K\u010d. Za jednu cestu. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Na\u0161e Mitsubishi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kostel v Alaverdi <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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M\u00edj\u00edme vinice, n\u00e1dhern\u00fd kostel v Alaverdi<\/strong>, pak asfaltov\u00e1 cesta kon\u010d\u00ed a pohlt\u00ed n\u00e1s hust\u00e1 zele\u0148 kavkazsk\u00fdch hor. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme pod vodop\u00e1dy, kter\u00e9 st\u00e9kaj\u00ed ze strm\u00fdch skal, cestu n\u00e1m ob\u010das zk\u0159\u00ed\u017e\u00ed pastevec se sv\u00fdm st\u00e1dem ovc\u00ed. Jako bychom se vr\u00e1tili o 100 let nazp\u011bt.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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Cestu n\u00e1m ob\u010das zk\u0159\u00ed\u017e\u00ed st\u00e1da ovc\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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No\u0159\u00edme se do zelen\u011b Velk\u00e9ho Kavkazu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u00dazk\u00e1 nezpevn\u011bn\u00e1 cesta se klikat\u00ed po \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed Kavkazu a\u017e k pr\u016fsmyku Abano<\/strong> ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 2850 m. n. m. Na jedn\u00e9 stran\u011b strm\u00e1 skaln\u00ed st\u011bna, na druh\u00e9 bezedn\u00e1 propast. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Dechberouc\u00ed cesta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Dv\u011b auta se na pra\u0161nou cestu ur\u010dit\u011b nevejdou. N\u00e1\u0161 dvacetilet\u00fd \u0159idi\u010d Shota<\/strong> (kontakt na facebooku)<\/a> tu zn\u00e1 ka\u017ed\u00fd k\u00e1men, ka\u017ed\u00fd v\u00fdmol. Protijedouc\u00edm aut\u016fm uh\u00fdb\u00e1 s centimetrovou p\u0159esnost\u00ed.  \u201eTam dole je parking nav\u011bky,\u201c ukazuje ironicky do propasti. Ka\u017ed\u00fd rok do n\u00ed spadne n\u011bkolik aut, v\u011bt\u0161inou neznal\u00fdch \u0159idi\u010d\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed nebezpe\u010dnou cestu podcen\u00ed. Vraky aut se nevytahuj\u00ed, jen t\u011bla. P\u00e1d zat\u00edm nikdo nep\u0159e\u017eil. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Dv\u011b auta se na \u201esilnici“ nevejdou<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u0159\u00edve tudy vedla jen p\u011b\u0161ina pro chodce a pro kon\u011b, v 80. letech tu vl\u00e1da Sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho svazu vybudovala cestu sj\u00edzdnou i auty. I kdy\u017e se dnes neust\u00e1le mluv\u00ed o jej\u00edm roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed a modernizaci, pl\u00e1ny zat\u00edm z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed jen na pap\u00ed\u0159e. Cesta je dlouh\u00e1 50 km a podle po\u010das\u00ed otev\u0159en\u00e1 od konce kv\u011btna\/poloviny \u010dervna do poloviny \u0159\u00edjna. P\u0159i de\u0161ti, sesuvech a v zimn\u00edm obdob\u00ed je nepr\u016fjezdn\u00e1. Pokud tedy m\u00e1te nasp\u011bch, cestov\u00e1n\u00ed do Tu\u0161etie si dob\u0159e promyslete. P\u00e1r dn\u00ed se m\u016f\u017ee prot\u00e1hnout na p\u00e1r t\u00fddn\u016f<\/p>\n

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Fantastick\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy v\u0161ak p\u0159ed\u010d\u00ed i tento adrenalin.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cesta vinouc\u00ed se po \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed Kavkazu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na jednom z m\u00e1la m\u00edst, kde se d\u00e1 zastavit, potk\u00e1v\u00e1me partu rozja\u0159en\u00fdch mlad\u00edk\u016f. Jsou velmi dru\u017en\u00ed a po\u017eaduj\u00ed spole\u010dnou fotku. Jak by ne, kdy\u017e u\u017e v sob\u011b maj\u00ed demi\u017eon v\u00edna. Krabi\u010dka cigaret je je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce rozj\u00e1s\u00e1, hned n\u00e1m za ni vnut\u00ed p\u00e1r litr\u016f \u010derven\u00e9ho. Sm\u011bnn\u00fd obchod tu funguje skv\u011ble.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Gruz\u00ednsk\u00e1 dru\u017eba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\u00dachvatn\u00e9<\/a>
Troufli byste si sjet tuto cestu?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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I kdy\u017e se tu jezd\u00ed p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b d\u017e\u00edpy, potk\u00e1v\u00e1me n\u00e1kla\u010f\u00e1k, bagr, dv\u011b mlad\u00e9 holky z Tbilisi v osobn\u00edm aut\u011b a p\u00e1r cyklist\u016f.  V\u010dera tudy pr\u00fd \u0161lapali dokonce i \u010ce\u0161i!<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholderPo p\u011bti hodin\u00e1ch drsn\u00e9 j\u00edzdy p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do poh\u00e1dkov\u00e9 Tu\u0161etie<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00edtejte v poh\u00e1dkov\u00e9 Tu\u0161etii!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Centrem oblasti je m\u011bste\u010dko Omalo.<\/strong> Podle \u00fadaje z roku 2014 zde ofici\u00e1ln\u011b \u017eije 37 lid\u00ed. Maj\u00ed zde dokonce i leti\u0161t\u011b. P\u0159ed deseti lety tu p\u0159ist\u00e1lo prvn\u00ed letadlo s politickou delegac\u00ed. Od t\u00e9 doby je leti\u0161t\u011b zarostl\u00e9 a zcela nefunk\u010dn\u00ed. V Omalu se nach\u00e1z\u00ed nejv\u00edce mo\u017enost\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed, kav\u00e1rna a obchod, proto tady z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161ina turist\u016f. To m\u00e1me v pl\u00e1nu i my. N\u00e1\u0161 \u0159idi\u010d Shota ale ne.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Guesthouse Shotov\u00fdch rodi\u010d\u016f<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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V\u00fdhled z pokoje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ten s n\u00e1mi uh\u00e1n\u00ed do penzionu sv\u00fdch rodi\u010d\u016f ve vesni\u010dce Shenako, le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed<\/strong> nad Omalem ve v\u00fd\u0161ce 2080 m. n. m. Vesni\u010dka v\u0161ak pat\u0159\u00ed mezi ty nejp\u016fvabn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, je obklopena n\u00e1dhernou p\u0159\u00edrodou a d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 domky s vy\u0159ez\u00e1van\u00fdmi verandami vypadaj\u00ed jako skanzen gruz\u00ednsk\u00e9 lidov\u00e9 architektury. Maj\u00ed tu tak\u00e9 hezk\u00fd kostel, kam je ale \u017een\u00e1m pr\u00fd vstup zak\u00e1z\u00e1n. Nen\u00ed tu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 restaurace, stravu pro turisty zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed penziony. Shotova m\u00e1ma a sestra n\u00e1m vyva\u0159uj\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00e1 j\u00eddla, nechyb\u00ed maso, zelenina ani sladkosti.<\/span> p\u0159ikupujeme*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Ceny v Tu\u0161etii: ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed 30 GEL, j\u00eddlo 10 GEL\/osobu<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> si tedy za 20 GEL vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed sn\u00eddan\u011b a ve\u010de\u0159e. Tak to prost\u011b v Tu\u0161etii funguje.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Takhle bude o v\u00e1s v Shenaku postar\u00e1no<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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M\u00edstn\u00ed lid\u00e9 maj\u00ed v\u011bt\u0161inou dva domy. Jeden na zimu v Kachetii, druh\u00fd na l\u00e9to v Tu\u0161etii. Shotova matka a sestra s mal\u00fdm synkem tu tr\u00e1v\u00ed cel\u00e9 l\u00e9to. Co tu d\u011blaj\u00ed? \u201eNic. Sed\u00ed a pop\u00edj\u00ed kafe se sousedkami.\u201c Nen\u00ed tu sign\u00e1l, televize ani wifi. D\u00edky hydroelektr\u00e1rn\u011b je na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed cel\u00e9 Shenako z\u00e1sobov\u00e1no elekt\u0159inou. P\u0159es zimu tu pr\u00fd z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 jen jeden \u010dlov\u011bk, kter\u00fd se star\u00e1 o dobytek. Co kdy\u017e se mu n\u011bco stane? V\u017edy\u0165 se ani nedovol\u00e1 pomoci? \u201eNo tak um\u0159e,\u201c odpov\u00edd\u00e1 s ledov\u00fdm klidem Shota.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Nekone\u010dn\u00e9 pastviny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Sv\u00e9r\u00e1zn\u00ed Tu\u0161e\u0165an\u00e9 velmi lp\u00ed na sv\u00fdch tradic\u00edch. Proto by turist\u00e9, zejm\u00e9na \u017eeny, m\u011bli dodr\u017eovat ur\u010dit\u00e9 z\u00e1sady t\u00fdkaj\u00edc\u00ed se vhodn\u00e9ho obl\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed. Cel\u00e1 oblast je poseta kamenn\u00fdmi svatyn\u011bmi chatebi<\/em>,<\/strong> zdoben\u00fdmi rohy ob\u011btovan\u00fdch koz a ovc\u00ed. Do nich maj\u00ed \u017eeny tak\u00e9 vstup p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b zak\u00e1z\u00e1n.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Tu\u0161etsk\u00e1 panoramataI kdy\u017e je srpen, v noci je tu po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e1 zima. Dokonce i Kubovi, kter\u00e9mu je jinak horko i na Sibi\u0159i. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed n\u00e1s zah\u0159eje v\u00edno, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1m darovali dru\u017en\u00ed mlad\u00edci. Shota se tu nud\u00ed, tak n\u00e1m s n\u00edm pom\u016f\u017ee.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Cesta sm\u011br Dagest\u00e1n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Zdej\u0161\u00ed krajina je malebn\u00e1 a hory bez ledovc\u016f. P\u016fsob\u00ed na n\u00e1s poh\u00e1dkov\u011b, nev\u00edme, co d\u0159\u00edv d\u011blat. Nepo\u0161lapat sametovou tr\u00e1vu? Nevyru\u0161it voln\u011b se pasouc\u00ed st\u00e1da krav a jejich pas\u00e1\u010dky s polopr\u00e1zdn\u00fdmi lahvemi ko\u0159alky \u010da\u010da<\/em>? Nebo nena\u0161tvat drsn\u00e9 tu\u0161etsk\u00e9 psy? Ti v\u00e1\u017e\u00ed p\u0159es 80 kg a nevypadaj\u00ed v\u016fbec p\u0159\u00e1telsky.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Co k tomu dodat?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Krajina je propleten\u00e1 zna\u010dn\u00fdmi turistick\u00fdmi stezkami. Sm\u011brem na severov\u00fdchod od Omala sta\u010d\u00ed proj\u00edt nov\u00fdm Diklem a otev\u00edr\u00e1 se n\u00e1m panorama na pohrani\u010dn\u00ed h\u0159eben mezi Gruzi\u00ed a Dagest\u00e1nem. Odtud je to jen kousek ke star\u00e9mu Diklu, kter\u00e9 v roce 1836 vyp\u00e1lil im\u00e1m \u0160\u00e1mil jako pomstu za podporu m\u00edstn\u00edch lid\u00ed carsk\u00e9mu Rusku. Na severoz\u00e1pad\u011b ve vesnici Dartlo nach\u00e1z\u00edme domy z 19. stolet\u00ed s p\u016fvodn\u00edmi kamenn\u00fdmi st\u0159echami, zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ee a zch\u00e1tral\u00fd kostel, kam samoz\u0159ejm\u011b \u017eeny op\u011bt nesm\u00ed. Zdatn\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci odtud mohou pokra\u010dovat po h\u0159ebenech a\u017e do \u00fadol\u00ed Alazani, odkud je to u\u017e jen kousek do \u010ce\u010denska. Cel\u00fd trek zabere zhruba t\u0159i dny<\/span>.<\/p>\n

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\u017divot v Tu\u0161etii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ob\u010das potk\u00e1me i n\u011bjak\u00e9 turisty, nej\u010dast\u011bji z Ruska a N\u011bmecka. Oproti zn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed Svanetii se sem do magick\u00e9ho gruz\u00ednsko-dagest\u00e1nsko-\u010de\u010densk\u00e9ho pohrani\u010d\u00ed zat\u00edm moc cestovatel\u016f nehrne. A to je dob\u0159e.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

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WEB O TU\u0160ETII A KAVKAZU:<\/div>
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https:\/\/www.caucasus-trekking.com\/regions\/tusheti<\/em><\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/em><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n