{"id":4274,"date":"2019-05-28T20:09:42","date_gmt":"2019-05-28T19:09:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=4274"},"modified":"2022-01-15T01:39:25","modified_gmt":"2022-01-15T00:39:25","slug":"nahorni-karabach-krvava-zahrada-kavkazu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/nahorni-karabach-krvava-zahrada-kavkazu\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u00c1HORN\u00cd KARABACH – KRVAV\u00c1 ZAHRADA KAVKAZU"},"content":{"rendered":"

I p\u0159es nevy\u0159e\u0161en\u00fd politick\u00fd status se karaba\u0161\u0161t\u00ed Arm\u00e9ni po zna\u010dn\u011b krvav\u00e9 v\u00e1lce v 90. letech znovu postavil na nohy. \u017div\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto St\u011bpanakert bylo pln\u00e9 obchod\u016f, restaurac\u00ed a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch font\u00e1n. Fungovaly \u0161koly, ministerstva a dokonce i nov\u00fd fotbalov\u00fd stadion. Opravily se pam\u00e1tky, infrastruktura, vznikaly zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 stezky. A kone\u010dn\u011b p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u011bla spousta turist\u016f! Jak by ne, objevili jeden z nejkouzeln\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kout\u016f Kavkazu. Mo\u017en\u00e1 i sv\u011bta. V ned\u011bli 27. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 2020 na oblast ne\u010dekan\u011b za\u00fato\u010dil \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n a za\u010dala jatka. S pomoc\u00ed zak\u00e1zan\u00fdch bomb, raket a dron\u016f chce N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach etnicky „vy\u010distit“. Sv\u011bt ml\u010dky odvracel tv\u00e1\u0159, OSN a NATO jsou op\u011bt k ni\u010demu. Koho zaj\u00edm\u00e1 mal\u00fd chud\u00fd Karabach? Ropa a prachy od dikt\u00e1tora Alijeva, to je jin\u00e1 liga! Jen\u017ee tady \u0161lo trochu o v\u00edce. Chcete v\u011bd\u011bt co Arm\u00e9n\u016fm vlastn\u011b z\u016fstalo a kdo zv\u00edt\u011bzil? \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n to nebyl!<\/span><\/p>\n

Ve sv\u00e9 report\u00e1\u017ei V\u00e1s chci stru\u010dn\u00e9 sezn\u00e1mit s histori\u00ed, probl\u00e9mem a hlavn\u011b neoby\u010dejnou kr\u00e1sou N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu. A taky o tom, kdo je v\u00edt\u011bz.<\/span><\/p>\n

*vysunovac\u00ed pozn\u00e1mky v textu<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Pros\u00edm, nekop\u00edrujte m\u016fj origin\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00e1zev a podn\u00e1zvy do sv\u00fdch text\u016f. Tak jako auto \u010dl\u00e1nku o NK v \u010dasopise Lid\u00e9 a Zem\u011b 08\/2020. D\u011bkuji a p\u0159eji kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 \u010dten\u00ed!.<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\nZBAB\u011aL\u00c1 V\u00c1LKA A PUTINOVO V\u00cdT\u011aZSTV\u00cd V N\u00c1HORN\u00cdM KARABACHU<\/span><\/a>          POMOC LIDEM Z N\u00c1HORN\u00cdHO KARABACHU<\/span><\/a> <\/p>\n

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PROBL\u00c9M N\u00c1HORN\u00cdHO KARABACHU<\/strong> <\/span><\/p>\n

N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach<\/strong> je nez\u00e1visl\u00e1 republika, kterou v\u0161ak mezin\u00e1rodn\u011b nikdo neuznal*<\/em><\/span><\/span>Tento stav se naz\u00fdv\u00e1 DE JURE. Uznaly jej pouze Abch\u00e1zie, Ji\u017en\u00ed Osetie (Gruzie) a Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed (Mold\u00e1vie), kter\u00e9 jsou na tom stejn\u011b.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>. V oblasti o velikosti pardubick\u00e9ho kraje*<\/em><\/span><\/span>4400 km\u00b2<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> dnes \u017eije 147 000 karaba\u0161sk\u00fdch Arm\u00e9n\u016f a je pod spr\u00e1vou Arm\u00e9nie*<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/span>Arm\u00e9nie tak\u00e9 nez\u00e1vislost N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu mezin\u00e1rodn\u011b neuznala<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>. Zab\u00edr\u00e1 v\u0161ak 16 % \u00fazem\u00ed \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu<\/strong>, k n\u011bmu\u017e legislativn\u011b pat\u0159\u00ed. V 90 letech zde prob\u011bhla krvav\u00e1 ob\u010dansk\u00e1 v\u00e1lka a \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nci byli vyhn\u00e1ni. N\u00e1horn\u00ed Nejedn\u00e1 se o konflikt n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fd. Karabach je v\u0161ak pro oba n\u00e1rody historicky i kulturn\u011b d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd, oba na n\u011bj maj\u00ed opr\u00e1vn\u011bn\u00fd n\u00e1rok. Sou\u010dasn\u00e9 k\u0159ehk\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edm\u011b\u0159\u00ed skon\u010dilo v ned\u011bli 27. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 2020, kdy \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n zapto\u010dil na N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach. Skon\u010dila po \u0161esti t\u00fddnech, p\u0159esn\u011b  v pond\u011bl\u00ed 9. 11. 2020 podeps\u00e1n\u00edm dohody mezi Arm\u00e9ni\u00ed, \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nem a Ruskem. V tu chv\u00edli se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 p\u0159ekreslovat mapa politick\u00e9ho vlivu. V\u00edt\u011bzem t\u00e9to v\u00e1lky je toti\u017e Rusko (viz z\u00e1v\u011br \u010dl\u00e1nku).<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

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Poloha N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Vlajka je podobn\u00e1 arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9. Odli\u0161uje se b\u00edl\u00fdm kl\u00ednem, kter\u00fd vyjad\u0159uje soun\u00e1le\u017eitost s Arm\u00e9nii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V<\/span> n\u00e1zvu je tak\u00e9 zna\u010dn\u00fd chaos. D\u0159\u00edve N\u00e1horn\u011b-karaba\u0161sk\u00e1 republika*<\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span>angl. Nagorno-Karabakh<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, dnes arm\u00e9nsky Republika<\/strong> Arcach*<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/span>angl. Republic of Artsakh, n\u00e1zev odhlasov\u00e1n referendem v r. 2017<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsky Da\u011fl\u0131q Qaraba\u011f<\/strong> se p\u0159ekl\u00e1d\u00e1 jako \u010dern\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 zahrada. Ozna\u010den\u00ed separatistick\u00e9 \u00fazem\u00ed nen\u00ed v\u00fdjimkou.<\/span><\/p>\n

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KRVAV\u00c1 HISTORIE, KRVAV\u00c1 SOU\u010cASNOST<\/div>
HISTORIE: Okolo r. 180 p\u0159. n. l. pat\u0159ila oblast k Arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9mu kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed. Vlivem migrace a historick\u00fdch ud\u00e1lost\u00ed \u00fazem\u00ed os\u00eddlili tak\u00e9 \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nci. O mocensk\u00fd vliv usilovala ob\u011b etnika. Prvn\u00ed spor vznikl v roce 1919. I kdy\u017e Arm\u00e9ni tvo\u0159ili v\u011bt\u0161inu, Velk\u00e1 Brit\u00e1nie navrhla, aby byl Karabach pod \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nskou kontrolou. Rusov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed d\u011blen\u00edm ji\u017en\u00edho Kavkazu vytvo\u0159ili extr\u00e9mn\u00ed etnick\u00fd mix, uzav\u0159eli roku 1921 s Tureckem Smlouvu o bratrstv\u00ed a p\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00ed, na jej\u00edm\u017e z\u00e1klad\u011b N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach definitivn\u011b p\u0159id\u011blili \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. Od 60. let s\u00edlily mezi karaba\u0161sk\u00fdmi Arm\u00e9ny pocity diskriminace. Jazykov\u00e9, kulturn\u00ed, ve \u0161kol\u00e1ch i v m\u00e9di\u00edch. Nevra\u017eivost mezi ob\u011bma etniky p\u0159erostla na konci 80. let v otev\u0159en\u00e9 st\u0159ety, n\u00e1sil\u00ed se stup\u0148ovalo, z obou zem\u00ed byly deportov\u00e1ny \u010di utekly  statis\u00edce lid\u00ed, oboustrann\u011b doch\u00e1zelo k etnick\u00fdm pogrom\u016fm. \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00fd prezident si vy\u017e\u00e1dal kontrolov\u00e1n\u00ed identity lid\u00ed, velmi brut\u00e1ln\u00ed akce zvan\u00e1 Kole\u010dko v\u0161ak byla ur\u010dena k etnick\u00e9mu vy\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed. Sl\u00e1bnouc\u00ed sov\u011btsk\u00e1 moc u\u017e nebyla schopna situaci zvl\u00e1dnout. I p\u0159es opakovan\u00e9 protesty Arm\u00e9n\u016f v \u010dervnu 1988 Michail S. Gorba\u010dov znovu potvrdil, \u017ee N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach je ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. Kdy\u017e \u00c1zerov\u00e9 vyhl\u00e1sili 30. srpna 1991 nez\u00e1vislost na rozpadaj\u00edc\u00edm se SSSR, karaba\u0161\u0161t\u00ed  Arm\u00e9ni o t\u0159i dny pozd\u011bji vyhl\u00e1sili nez\u00e1vislost na \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. V zemi v\u0161ak st\u00e1le \u017eily oba n\u00e1rody. V letech 1992\u20131994 prob\u011bhla o N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach krvav\u00e1 v\u00e1lka. Na konci konfliktu Arm\u00e9ni ovl\u00e1dli t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 celou oblast N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu, La\u010dinsk\u00fd koridor a n\u011bkolik p\u0159ilehl\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. V\u0161ichni \u00c1zerov\u00e9 byli vyhn\u00e1ni. V\u00e1lku ukon\u010dilo a\u017e podeps\u00e1n\u00ed Bi\u0161keksk\u00e9ho protokolu v \u010dervenci 1994. O  \u017eivot p\u0159i\u0161lo <\/span><\/strong>17 500 Arm\u00e9n\u016f a 25 500 \u00c1zer\u016f. Ze sv\u00fdch domov\u016f bylo vyhn\u00e1no 300 000 Arm\u00e9n\u016f a t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 milion \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nc\u016f.
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SOU\u010cASNOST: B\u011bhem roku 2012 bylo p\u0159\u00edm\u011b\u0159\u00ed poru\u0161eno 3000 v\u00fdst\u0159ely, v roce 2015 dokonce 60 tis\u00edci. V dubnu 2016 vypukly intenz\u00edvn\u00ed boje pod\u00e9l cel\u00e9 hranice s N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachem. Trvaly \u010dty\u0159i dny, bilanc\u00ed je n\u011bkolik des\u00edtek mrtv\u00fdch voj\u00e1k\u016f. <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

27. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 2020 za\u00fato\u010dil \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n s pomoc\u00ed Tureckem najat\u00fdmi d\u017eih\u00e1disty ze S\u00fdrie. Arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 voj\u00e1ky (ro\u010dn\u00edky 1990-2000) a civilisty trhaj\u00ed na kusy zak\u00e1zan\u00e9 rakety a drony z Izraele. Letadla na  bezmocn\u00fd Karabach sypou b\u00edl\u00fd fosfor a zapaluj\u00ed lesy. I s lidmi.. Um\u00edr\u00e1 p\u0159es 2400 Arm\u00e9n\u016f, zem\u011b je v trosk\u00e1ch. <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

VY\u0158E\u0160EN\u00cd PROBL\u00c9MU je v nedohlednu. Arm\u00e9ni po\u017eaduj\u00ed uzn\u00e1n\u00ed nez\u00e1vislosti N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu, \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n vyklizen\u00ed Arm\u00e9ny okupovan\u00fdch \u00fazem\u00ed. Toto stanovisko podpo\u0159il i Evropsk\u00fd parlament v roce 2010.<\/strong><\/div><\/div><\/span><\/p>\n

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V ZEMI, KTER\u00c1 NEEXISTUJE<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach m\u011b v\u017edycky velmi l\u00e1kal. Kdy\u017e jsme v srpnu 2018 cestovali po Arm\u00e9nii, byl by h\u0159\u00edch ho nenav\u0161t\u00edvit. <\/span><\/p>\n

Z jerevansk\u00e9ho n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Kilikia vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme brzy r\u00e1no nacpan\u00fdm minibusem. Dostat se do Karabachu je mo\u017en\u00e9 pouze po silnici z Arm\u00e9nie. Bu\u010fto m\u00e1lo frekventovan\u00fdm pr\u016fsmykem Sodk<\/strong>, divokou krajinou bez pam\u00e1tek a v\u011bt\u0161\u00edch m\u011bst<\/span>. Nebo klasickou cestou p\u0159es arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko Goris.<\/strong> Na hranic\u00edch kontroluj\u00ed jen cizince, \u00fa\u0159edn\u00edk si n\u00e1s zap\u00ed\u0161e a rad\u00ed, kde vy\u0159\u00eddit v\u00edza. Pen\u00edze m\u011bnit nemus\u00edme, v Karabachu se plat\u00ed arm\u00e9nsk\u00fdm dramem (AMD)*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>1000 AMD=47 K\u010d<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>. Arm\u00e9nsk\u00e1 SIM karta v\u0161ak p\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 fungovat, Karabach m\u00e1 svou vlastn\u00ed s\u00ed\u0165 Karabakh Telecom. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme hornat\u00fdm La\u010dinsk\u00fdm koridorem, pupe\u010dn\u00ed \u0161\u0148\u016frou s Arm\u00e9ni\u00ed. Nikdy ke Karabachu nepat\u0159il, \u017eili zde p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nci. Dnes skoro nikdo.
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Minibus z Jerevanu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ve St\u011bpanakertu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Po sedmi hodin\u00e1ch a 320 km jsme v hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b zem\u011b, ve St\u011bpanakertu<\/strong>. Ani se nestihneme rozhl\u00e9dnout po n\u011bjak\u00e9m ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed, <\/span> jak\u00fdsi hromotluk popadne na\u0161e krosny a uh\u00e1n\u00ed ke sv\u00e9 nale\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 Volze. Pr\u00fd m\u00e1 kr\u00e1sn\u00fd hotel se super wifi. Tak tedy jedeme! Jmenuje se Ashot a z jeho Ashot \u201ehotelu\u201c by spousta lid\u00ed rychle utekla. Tak jako turista, kter\u00e9ho p\u0159ivezl chv\u00edli po n\u00e1s. A to vypadal jako drs\u0148\u00e1k!<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed u Ashota<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kontakt na Ashota<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Jen\u017ee tady nejste na rivi\u00e9\u0159e. Tady jste v N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachu! Zvenku vypad\u00e1 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed jako sklad, uvnit\u0159 trochu l\u00edp. Kuchy\u0148ka na otev\u0159en\u00e9m balkon\u011b s kouzeln\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na m\u011bsto, v koupeln\u011b neust\u00e1le kape voda, z\u00e1chod na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed splachuje a wifi svi\u0161t\u00ed opravdu skv\u011ble. Na\u0161a komnata chara\u0161o!<\/em> Na angli\u010dtinu tady zapome\u0148te. Na arm\u00e9n\u0161tinu taky, je p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 t\u011b\u017ek\u00e1. Domluv\u00edte se jedin\u011b rusky. Je lehk\u00e1, d\u00e1 se v n\u00ed improvizovat a po m\u011bs\u00edci na Kavkaze bez probl\u00e9m\u016f gavarim parusky<\/em>. Tak nap\u0159\u00edklad: v komnat\u011b lampi\u010dka bum<\/em> znamen\u00e1: v pokoji p\u0159estalo sv\u00edtit sv\u011btlo.
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V\u00fdhled na m\u011bsto z na\u0161\u00ed balkonov\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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V typick\u00e9m obch\u016fdku<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kdo by to byl \u010dekal, \u017ee v ulici p\u0159ed \u201ehotelem\u201c najdeme asi \u0161est obch\u016fdk\u016f s potravinami. Obl\u00edb\u00edme si ten s usm\u011bvavou Mari\u00ed, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1s ka\u017ed\u00fd den srde\u010dn\u011b v\u00edt\u00e1. Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed plochu zab\u00edr\u00e1 reg\u00e1l s alkoholem. V\u0161ude sam\u00e1 oghee<\/strong>, m\u00edstn\u00ed ovocn\u00e1 p\u00e1lenka s  60 % alkoholu. V\u00edno tu chutn\u00e1 \u00fapln\u011b jinak ne\u017e v Evrop\u011b. Tak n\u011bjak zka\u017een\u011b. Tak jako po cel\u00e9m Kavkazu. \u010clov\u011bk si na n\u011bj ale po p\u00e1r hltech zvykne. Nakonec se z Ashot hotelu stane na\u0161e srdcovka.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00edzum do zem\u011b, kter\u00e1 neexistuje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na ministerstvu zahrani\u010d\u00ed si b\u011bhem chvilky vy\u0159izujeme v\u00edza za 3000 AMD (150 K\u010d – r. 2018). Dnes jsou pr\u00fd zadarmo, v\u00edce informac\u00ed najdete ZDE<\/a>. M\u00e1te-li v pl\u00e1nu nav\u0161t\u00edvit Agdam<\/strong>, do \u017e\u00e1dosti ho neuv\u00e1d\u011bjte. Karti\u010dky s v\u00edzy n\u00e1m do pasu jen vlo\u017e\u00ed. Pokud si je tam vlep\u00edme, s t\u00edmto pasem u\u017e nesm\u00edme do \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. Jsme ofici\u00e1ln\u011b v zemi, kter\u00e1 ofici\u00e1ln\u011b neexistuje!<\/span><\/p>\n

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D\u016eLE\u017dIT\u00c9 UPOZORN\u011aN\u00cd!!!<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Cizinc\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00ed bez souhlasu \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00e9 vl\u00e1dy, bude vstup do \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu zak\u00e1z\u00e1n. I kdy\u017e si v\u00edza do pasu nevlep\u00edte, \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00e1 vl\u00e1da si eviduje SEZNAM<\/a> lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed Karabach od roku 2010 bez povolen\u00ed nav\u0161t\u00edvili. Obsahuje p\u0159es tis\u00edc jmen, v\u010detn\u011b \u010cech\u016f a Slov\u00e1k\u016f. V\u010detn\u011b m\u011b.<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/strong><\/p>\n

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S Ashotem a jeho nabl\u00fdskanou Volhou jedeme na obhl\u00eddku zem\u011b.<\/span><\/p>\n

VANK (z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 Arm\u00e9n\u016fm)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Hotel Electric p\u0159ezd\u00edvan\u00fd Titanik<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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N\u011bco tak bizarn\u00edho bych v N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachu ne\u010dekala! M\u011bste\u010dko vypad\u00e1 jako barevn\u00e1 stavebnice, v kter\u00e9 nejv\u00edce vynik\u00e1 hotel Electric<\/a>. P\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 lo\u010f, a tak mu m\u00edstn\u00ed \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed Titanik. Hned vedle dov\u00e1d\u00ed d\u011bti v lunaparku. Chodn\u00edky a cesty jsou \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9. Obnovu a v\u00fdstavbu m\u011bsta v\u010detn\u011b \u0161koly, nemocnice a dvou hotel\u016f financoval m\u00edstn\u00ed rod\u00e1k, rusko-arm\u00e9nsk\u00fd obchodn\u00edk Levon Hajrapetyan. V roce 2008 proslavila Vank masov\u00e1 svatba 500 arm\u00e9nsk\u00fdch p\u00e1r\u016f. M\u011b v\u0161ak tento barevn\u00fd legoland nezaj\u00edm\u00e1. Naproti stoj\u00ed dlouh\u00e1 ze\u010f. Cel\u00e1 polepen\u00e1 stovkami \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00fdch SPZ. Stovky aut = stovky rodin, kter\u00e9 odtud musely uprchnout. B\u011bh\u00e1 mi mr\u00e1z po z\u00e1dech.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Ze\u010f z azerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00fdch SPZ<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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KL\u00c1\u0160TER GANDZASAR (z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 Arm\u00e9n\u016fm)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Kl\u00e1\u0161ter Gandzasar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Fantastick\u00fd v\u00fdhled z kl\u00e1\u0161tera do krajiny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V kopc\u00edch na Vankem se ty\u010d\u00ed Gandzasar, nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161ter<\/span> v zemi. <\/span>M\u00edstn\u00ed jsou na n\u011bj velmi hrd\u00ed, potvrzuje, \u017ee Arm\u00e9ni v Karabachu \u017eili ji\u017e p\u0159ed tis\u00edci lety. Pohled do krajiny je naprosto \u00fachvatn\u00fd. Rozj\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00e1m naru\u0161\u00ed vojensk\u00e1 auta. Na korb\u011b sed\u00ed snad cel\u00e1 arm\u00e1da. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed voj\u00e1ci se sm\u011bj\u00ed, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed mra\u010d\u00ed, \u010desk\u00e9 cigarety ale chutnaj\u00ed v\u0161em. Spole\u010dn\u00e1 fotka je m\u00fdm TOP \u00falovkem.<\/span><\/p>\n

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S voj\u00e1ky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kousek pod kostelem n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 dal\u0161\u00ed p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed. Ohromn\u00e1 lv\u00ed hlava s tlapou vytesan\u00e1 do sk\u00e1ly. Pr\u00fd je to atrakce pro turisty.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Lev vytesan\u00fd do sk\u00e1ly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Opou\u0161t\u00edme hory, kde p\u0159ed v\u00e1lkou \u017eili p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b Arm\u00e9ni a pomalu m\u00ed\u0159\u00edme do n\u00ed\u017ein, d\u0159\u00edve ob\u00fdvan\u00fdmi \u00c1zery. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

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TIGRANAKERT A OKOL\u00cd (p\u0159ejde po \u00c1zerb\u00e1j\u017e\u00e1n)
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201eV\u00edtejte v \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu,\u201c hl\u00e1s\u00ed telefon. Jsme nedaleko linie p\u0159\u00edm\u011b\u0159\u00ed, za n\u00ed\u017e se ji\u017e nach\u00e1z\u00ed nep\u0159\u00edtel. Neust\u00e1le kolem n\u00e1s proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed vojensk\u00e1 auta.<\/p>\n

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Vojensk\u00e1 auta u nedalek\u00e9 pevnosti Askeran<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Krajina v pohrani\u010d\u00ed \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zvln\u011bn\u00e1 krajina b\u00fdvala domovem p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b \u00c1zer\u016f. Tigranakert<\/strong> je v\u0161ak arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 archeologick\u00e9 nalezi\u0161t\u011b z 1. stol. p\u0159. n. l. Uvnit\u0159 zachoval\u00e9 pevnosti*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Vstup 250 AMD, v pond\u011bl\u00ed zav\u0159eno<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> se nach\u00e1z\u00ed muzeum, na kopci opod\u00e1l mal\u00fd kostel\u00edk. Pro Arm\u00e9ny dal\u0161\u00ed d\u016fkaz, \u017ee<\/span> tu \u017eili ji\u017e p\u0159ed na\u0161\u00edm letopo\u010dtem. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Tigranakert<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u017d\u00e1dala Ashota, at n\u00e1s vezme do Agdamu \u2013 kavkazsk\u00e9 Hiro\u0161imy<\/strong>, Sice to sl\u00edbil, pozd\u011bji n\u00e1m ale jen zastav\u00ed u v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00e9ho pam\u00e1tn\u00edku – tanku T-72<\/strong> a kamsi m\u00e1vne rukou: <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
V\u00e1le\u010dn\u00fd pam\u00e1tn\u00edk T-72<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u201eTam je Agdam.“ Pr\u00fd je to tam nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9.  Pozd\u011bji m\u011b to dost mrz\u00ed, i p\u0159es z\u00e1kaz sem turist\u00e9 \u010dasto jezd\u00ed. M\u00edstn\u00ed v\u011bd\u00ed, pro\u010d Agdam neukazovat.<\/span><\/p>\n

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AGDAM \u2013  M\u011aSTO DUCH\u016e<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Agdam (vrac\u00ed se zp\u011bt \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu) <\/strong>b\u00fdval prosperuj\u00edc\u00ed m\u011bsto pln\u00e9 \u017eivota. Na konci 80. let zde \u017eilo t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 40 000 lid\u00ed, p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nc\u016f. K N\u00e1horn\u00edmu Karabachu toti\u017e nikdy nepat\u0159il. Za v\u00e1lky byl zcela zabr\u00e1n Arm\u00e9ny a ve\u0161ker\u00e9 obyvatelstvo uteklo do \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. Po vytvo\u0159en\u00ed linie p\u0159\u00edm\u011b\u0159\u00ed z\u016fstal na stran\u011b Karabachu. Arm\u00e9ni jej zcela zni\u010dili a rozebrali stavebn\u00ed materi\u00e1l, aby se p\u016fvodn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 ji\u017e nikdy nevr\u00e1tili. Naprosto opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9mu a zdevastovan\u00e9mu m\u011bstu se p\u0159ezd\u00edv\u00e1 \u201ekavkazsk\u00e1 Hiro\u0161ima\u201c. <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Agdam je dnes zastoupen fotbalov\u00fdm klubem FK Qarabag, kter\u00fd hraje prvn\u00ed ligu v \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu. S\u00eddl\u00ed v Baku.<\/span><\/strong><\/div><\/div>\n

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Cestou zp\u011bt do St\u011bpanakertu m\u00edj\u00edme jedin\u00e9 leti\u0161t\u011b v zemi. V roce 2009 bylo <\/span>nov\u011b zrekonstruov\u00e1no, ot\u00e1zka vzdu\u0161n\u00e9ho prostoru v\u0161ak nen\u00ed dodnes vy\u0159e\u0161ena. A dlouho nebude. St\u011bpanakertem kdysi vedla tak\u00e9 \u017eelezni\u010dn\u00ed tra\u0165 z Tbilisi do Baku. Od za\u010d\u00e1tku v\u00e1lky tudy ji\u017e \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd vlak neprojel. Dnes je mo\u017en\u00e9 cestovat jen autobusy, mar\u0161\u016ftkami a tax\u00edky.  Infrastruktura byla je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety v dezol\u00e1tn\u00edm stavu s kr\u00e1tery po odst\u0159elov\u00e1n\u00ed. Dnes spojuje obydlen\u00e1 m\u00edsta s\u00ed\u0165 n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch silnic. Takov\u00e9 u n\u00e1s nenajdete.
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Pozor miny!!!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Po v\u00e1lce byl Karabach pln\u00fd min. Usmrtily 123 lid\u00ed, v\u00edce ne\u017e 300 zranily. V\u011bt\u0161ina zem\u011b je ji\u017e vy\u010di\u0161t\u011bna a v\u00fdstra\u017en\u00e9 cedule u minov\u00fdch pol\u00ed jsou jen v neobydlen\u00fdch okrajov\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1stech. V institutu na vyhled\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed a likvidaci min mi p\u00e1r ceduli p\u016fj\u010d\u00ed k vyfocen\u00ed. \u0160koda, \u017ee mi ani malou ceduli\u010dku necht\u011bj\u00ed prodat.
\n<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

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ST\u011aPANAKERT (z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 Arm\u00e9n\u016fm)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Na kopci u St\u011bpanakertu stoj\u00ed ohromn\u00e9 souso\u0161\u00ed. Jmenuje se My jsme na\u0161e hory*<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Souso\u0161\u00ed z vulkanick\u00e9 tufy bylo dokon\u010deno v roce 1967.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, v\u0161ichni mu ale \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed Tatik u Papik<\/strong> (babi\u010dka a d\u011bde\u010dek). Ohromn\u00e9 obli\u010deje symbolizuj\u00ed tvrdost a odvahu zdej\u0161\u00edch lid\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Tatik u Papik<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto St\u011bpanakert*<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Dnes m\u00e1 55 000 obyvatel<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> je ekonomick\u00fdm*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Zam\u011b\u0159uje se na turistick\u00fd ruch, potravin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd pr\u016fmysl a v\u00fdrobu brandy.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, vzd\u011bl\u00e1vac\u00edm*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Je zde p\u011bt vysok\u00fdch \u0161kol.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> a kulturn\u00edm centrem zem\u011b. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Centrum St\u011bpanakertu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Fotbalov\u00fd stadion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vno v\u00e1lkou poni\u010den\u00e9 m\u011bsto dnes za\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 ohromn\u00fd stavebn\u00ed boom. V\u0161e pr\u00fd financuje karaba\u0161sk\u00e1 diaspora v zahrani\u010d\u00ed a Arm\u00e9nie. Tam jsme ale na tak zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 m\u011bsto a kvalitn\u00ed infrastrukturu nikde nenarazili. Centrum n\u00e1s naprosto okouzl\u00ed. V\u0161ude je \u010disto a po\u0159\u00e1dek. Spousta zelen\u011b, font\u00e1ny, sochy, n\u00e1dhern\u011b zrekonstruovan\u00fd fotbalov\u00fd stadion a dokonce semafory s \u010dasova\u010dem! Ty jsem u n\u00e1s nikdy nevid\u011bla.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 font\u00e1na<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed u parlamentu a prezidentsk\u00e9ho pal\u00e1ce si p\u0159ipad\u00e1me jako n\u011bkde v z\u00e1padn\u00ed Evrop\u011b. Hlavou st\u00e1tu je prezident*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach je prezidentsk\u00e1 demokracie, tzn., \u017ee prezident zast\u00e1v\u00e1 i funkci premi\u00e9ra.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>, kter\u00fd je volen na dv\u011b volebn\u00ed obdob\u00ed. Sou\u010dasn\u00fd Bako S<\/strong><\/span>ahakyan<\/strong> je tak popul\u00e1rn\u00ed, \u017ee jej zvolili dokonce pot\u0159et\u00ed. Zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 si nemohou dovolit politick\u00e9 ani \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 jin\u00e9 rozep\u0159e. Mus\u00ed dr\u017eet spolu. V tom je jejich s\u00edla. To m\u011b napadne u nev\u0161edn\u00ed font\u00e1ny ve tvaru spojen\u00fdch rukou. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Prezidentsk\u00fd pal\u00e1c <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sb\u011bratel minc\u00ed, v pozad\u00ed budova parlamentu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zastav\u00ed se u n\u00e1s star\u00fd mu\u017e s igelitkou. Vypad\u00e1 jako bezdomovec. Bezchybnou angli\u010dtinou se pt\u00e1, odkud jsme. \u201e\u010cechoslovakia\u201c a jemu se rozz\u00e1\u0159\u00ed o\u010di. M\u00e1 neskute\u010dn\u011b laskav\u00fd obli\u010dej. Sb\u00edr\u00e1 mince a pros\u00ed m\u011b o n\u011bjakou \u010deskou. D\u00e1m mu v\u0161echny, co m\u00e1m. Pros\u00edm ho o spole\u010dnou fotku. Vyt\u00e1hne star\u00fd h\u0159eben a dlouho si pro\u010des\u00e1v\u00e1 sv\u00e9 \u0161ediv\u00e9 vlasy. <\/span>Jsem jeho aurou zcela paralyzov\u00e1na. Ani se nestihnu zeptat, kde se nau\u010dil tak dob\u0159e anglicky.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

\u0160U\u0160I  (p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed pod spr\u00e1vu \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n\u016f, co\u017e je velk\u00e1 trag\u00e9die pro Arm\u00e9ny)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0160u\u0161i*<\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span>Arm\u00e9nsky Shushi. Pozor \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsky \u0160u\u0161a (\u015eu\u015fa)<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> bylo p\u0159ed v\u00e1lkou jedn\u00edm z nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch kulturn\u00edch a um\u011bleck\u00fdch center Zakavkazska. Denn\u011b tu vych\u00e1zelo 21 novin, byly tu dv\u011b tisk\u00e1rny, dv\u011b divadla, dv\u011b gymn\u00e1zia.  P\u011bt velk\u00fdch arm\u00e9nsk\u00fdch chr\u00e1m\u016f, kostely, kapli\u010dky a persk\u00e1 me\u0161ita. N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 barevn\u00e9 m\u011bsto, kde \u017eilo v toleranci a klidu 17 000 lid\u00ed. Dnes jich tu je jen 4500. Z\u016fstaly dva kostely a p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b i me\u0161ita s minarety. Opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 a zch\u00e1tral\u00e1.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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Katedr\u00e1la Krista Spasitele. Je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm kostelem v zemi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Me\u0161ita Met Meched – opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 a ch\u00e1traj\u00edc\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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80 % m\u011bsta bylo zcela zni\u010deno. Nov\u00e9 cesty a chodn\u00edky dnes lemuj\u00ed mlad\u00e9 stromky a font\u00e1nkami s pitnou vodou. Zrekonstruovan\u00e9 panel\u00e1ky maj\u00ed dokonce i plastov\u00e1 okna! Pobav\u00ed n\u00e1s d\u016fmysln\u00fd syst\u00e9m su\u0161en\u00ed pr\u00e1dla. Mezi domy a prot\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi sto\u017e\u00e1ry jsou vysoko nad ulic\u00ed nata\u017eeny \u0161\u0148\u016fry pln\u00e9 vypran\u00e9ho oble\u010den\u00ed.
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Opraven\u00e9 ulice v \u0160u\u0161i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Zaj\u00edmav\u00fd syst\u00e9m su\u0161en\u00ed pr\u00e1dla<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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A mezi touto novotou stoj\u00ed rozst\u0159\u00edlen\u00e9 ruiny dom\u016f, n\u011bm\u00ed sv\u011bdkov\u00e9 minulosti.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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Poz\u016fstatky v\u00e1lky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Poz\u016fstatky v\u00e1lky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u0160u\u0161i le\u017e\u00ed na n\u00e1horn\u00ed plo\u0161in\u011b ve v\u00fd\u0161ce okolo 1800 m.n.m. Z hradeb star\u00e9 pevnosti je fantastick\u00fd v\u00fdhled na St\u011bpanakert a Mal\u00fd Kavkaz. M\u011bsto bylo na za\u010d\u00e1tku v\u00e1lky pod kontrolou \u00e1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nsk\u00e9 arm\u00e1dy, kter\u00e1 odtud hlavn\u00ed m\u011bsto odst\u0159elovala. 9. kv\u011btna 1992 arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 s\u00edly m\u011bsto  dobyly a ve\u0161ker\u00e1 \u00e1zersk\u00e1 populace uprchla. Tento okam\u017eik spolu se zabr\u00e1n\u00edm La\u010dinsk\u00e9ho koridoru nazna\u010dil, \u017ee Arm\u00e9ni sm\u011b\u0159uj\u00ed k v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00fdhled z pevnosti na Mal\u00fd Kavkaz<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pevnost v \u0160u\u0161i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ne\u010dekan\u011b se tu objev\u00ed z\u00e1jezd turist\u016f \u2013 mix Ital\u016f, N\u011bmc\u016f a Asiat\u016f s arm\u00e9nsk\u00fdm pr\u016fvodcem. Je patrn\u00e9, \u017ee N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 turisty st\u00e1le v\u00edce p\u0159itahovat.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00cdT\u011aZSTV\u00cd, V KTER\u00c9 NIKDO NEV\u011a\u0158IL<\/div>
V\u00fdhodu ve v\u00e1lce m\u011bl \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n s p\u011bti vojensk\u00fdmi leti\u0161ti. Arm\u00e9nie nem\u011bla \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9. \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n m\u011bl 10 000 vag\u00f3n\u016f s munic\u00ed, Arm\u00e9nie jen 500. Arm\u00e9nie a N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach m\u011bl 20 000 voj\u00e1k\u016f, \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n 42 000. Arm\u00e9nie 3 st\u00edhac\u00ed letouny a 13 vrtuln\u00edk\u016f. \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n 63-170 st\u00edha\u010dek a 45-51 vrtuln\u00edk\u016f. \u00c1zerov\u00e9 vyhr\u00e1vali tak\u00e9 v po\u010dtu spojenc\u016f.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Ve v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed karaba\u0161sk\u00fdch Arm\u00e9n\u016f nikdo nev\u011b\u0159il. Jak je mo\u017en\u00e9, \u017ee \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n, d\u00edky rop\u011b bohat\u00fd, nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a nejlidnat\u011bj\u0161\u00ed st\u00e1t v regionu, s Arm\u00e9ny prohr\u00e1l? Mo\u017en\u00e1 d\u00edky arm\u00e9nsk\u00e9 hou\u017eevnatosti a tvrd\u00e9 povaze vyp\u011bstovan\u00e9 \u017eivotem v hor\u00e1ch. <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed \u00fadaje: Arm\u00e9nie: <\/span><\/strong>177-187 d\u011bl, 90-173 tank\u016f, 290-360 obrn\u011bn\u00fdch transport\u00e9r\u016f, 39-200 bojov\u00fdch vozidel <\/span>\u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n: <\/span><\/strong>388-395 d\u011bl, 436-458 tank\u016f, 558-1264 obrn\u011bn\u00fdch transport\u00e9r\u016f, 389-480 bojov\u00fdch vozidel.<\/span><\/span> <\/div><\/div>\n

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Ve m\u011bst\u011b jsou dv\u011b muzea<\/span>*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Muzeum m\u011bsta \u0160u\u0161i a muzeum koberc\u016f.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> a prvn\u00ed otev\u0159en\u00e1 turistick\u00e1 kancel\u00e1\u0159 v zemi. U\u017e se chyst\u00e1me jet minibusem*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Minibusy z\/do St\u011bpanakertu jezd\u00ed od r\u00e1na do ve\u010dera ka\u017edou hodinu.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> zp\u011bt do St\u011bpanakertu, ale pan\u00ed v infocentru n\u00e1m rad\u00ed, zaj\u00edt se je\u0161t\u011b pod\u00edvat na jak\u00fdsi Jerderduz<\/strong>: \u201eEto krasivoje mjesta<\/em>.\u201c Tak tedy chara\u0161o, my paj\u010fom tuda!<\/em> <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Pohled na ka\u0148on<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Projdeme pastvinami za m\u011bstem a pak u\u017e jen s \u00fa\u017easem z\u00edr\u00e1me na neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd ka\u0148on za\u0159ezan\u00fd hluboko do hor. Marn\u011b p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, zda jsem takovou n\u00e1dheru u\u017e n\u011bkdy n\u011bkde vid\u011bla. Ohromn\u00fd relax od smutn\u00e9 \u0160u\u0161i.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_3_placeholder\n

KA\u0147ON HUNOT ( p\u0159ejde pod \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n)<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Tato pod\u00edvan\u00e1 se jmenuje ka\u0148on Hunot*<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span>Hunot Gorge<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> a dal\u0161\u00ed den se vyd\u00e1v\u00e1me do jeho nitra. Ma\u0161rutka n\u00e1s vyhod\u00ed u opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 cesty. \u0158idi\u010d jen m\u00e1vne rukou, kudy m\u00e1me j\u00edt. Dle Ashota tu pr\u00fd potk\u00e1me spoustu lid\u00ed. Nikde nikdo. Jen kr\u00e1va na louce n\u00e1s udiven\u011b pozoruje. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Sm\u011br ka\u0148on Hunot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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N\u00e1hle z k\u0159ov\u00ed vyb\u011bhne b\u00edl\u00fd ps\u00edk. Za n\u00edm star\u00fd p\u00e1n. Pr\u00fd m\u00e1me j\u00edt za n\u00edm. Narodil se v Baku, odkud musel s rodi\u010di uprchnout. Za Sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho svazu pr\u00fd bylo dob\u0159e. Nebyla toti\u017e v\u00e1lka. Pak u\u017e sly\u0161\u00edme d\u011btsk\u00fd k\u0159ik. V \u0159ece na dn\u011b ka\u0148onu skota\u010d\u00ed spousta d\u011bt\u00ed, okolo post\u00e1vaj\u00ed dosp\u011bl\u00ed. Tohle jsme tedy ne\u010dekali. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Mini vodop\u00e1d – jedna z nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch turistick\u00fdch fotek Karabachu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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V ka\u0148onu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ani dva \u010desk\u00e9 kluky z Liberce, kte\u0159\u00ed se ve sv\u00e9m star\u00e9m Seatu vydali p\u0159es Balk\u00e1n, Turecko a \u00cdr\u00e1n a\u017e kamsi do T\u00e1d\u017eikist\u00e1nu, a pak p\u0159es Rusko zp\u011bt dom\u016f. Jedin\u00ed \u010ce\u0161i, kter\u00e9 jsme za cel\u00fd m\u011bs\u00edc na Kavkaze potkali. Ka\u0148onem vede zaj\u00edmav\u00fd karaba\u0161sk\u00fd trek zvan\u00fd Janapar trail<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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JANAPAR TRAIL\"\"<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Stezka (na webov\u00fdch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch je napr\u00e1no, \u017ee po vy\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed po v\u00e1lce budou n\u011bkter\u00e9 jej\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti zp\u0159\u00edstupn\u011bny) dlouh\u00e1 200 km proch\u00e1z\u00ed nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d cel\u00fdm N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachem. Vede \u00fachvatnou krajinou, horami, roklemi, horsk\u00fdmi vesnicemi, kolem \u0159ek a vodop\u00e1d\u016f. Je zna\u010dena modr\u00fdm obd\u00e9ln\u00edkem se \u017elut\u00fdm otiskem bos\u00e9 nohy a zabere v\u00e1m 14 dn\u00ed. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 na jihu v Hadrutu, p\u0159es \u0160u\u0161i, St\u011bpanakert, Gandzasar a Dadivank pokra\u010duje a\u017e k term\u00e1ln\u00edm pramen\u016fm Zuar a k vesnici Mena\u0161en. Dnes je stezka prodlou\u017eena a\u017e do Arm\u00e9nie v d\u00e9lce 500 km. Stan nepot\u0159ebujete, v ka\u017ed\u00e9 vesnici se d\u00e1 po domluv\u011b p\u0159espat. Velmi dob\u0159e <\/span>zpracovan\u00e1 ofici\u00e1ln\u00ed str\u00e1nka:<\/span> http:\/\/www.janapartrail.org\/wiki\/Main_Page<\/a>  <\/div><\/div><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Vrac\u00edme se do prvn\u00ed vesnice, odkud by n\u00e1m zp\u011bt m\u011bla jet ma\u0161r\u016ftka. Nic ale nejede. N\u011bkolik \u0159idi\u010d\u016f sice zastav\u00ed, p\u0159\u00e1telsky se vypt\u00e1vaj\u00ed, odkud jsme a jak se n\u00e1m tu l\u00edb\u00ed. V\u0161ichni ale jedou opa\u010dn\u00fdm sm\u011brem. Pak na n\u00e1s zavol\u00e1 star\u00fd p\u00e1n, kter\u00fd veze zeleninu do St\u011bpanakertu. Ashota dob\u0159e zn\u00e1, poch\u00e1z\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b odtud a je to jeho soused.  <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_4_placeholder\n

Ve\u010der se ve fastfoodu zapov\u00edd\u00e1me s arm\u00e1dn\u00edm velitelem. Tak\u00e9 se pt\u00e1, jak se n\u00e1m v jeho zemi l\u00edb\u00ed a vypr\u00e1v\u00ed o sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch po z\u00e1padn\u00ed Evrop\u011b. P\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fd, hrd\u00fd, charismatick\u00fd. Dodnes na rozhovor s n\u00edm vzpom\u00edn\u00e1me. Tak jako na v\u0161echny, kter\u00e9 jsme v N\u00e1horn\u00edm Karabachu potkali. <\/span><\/p>\n

Ashotovo jm\u00e9no jsem v \u0159\u00edjnu 2020 na\u0161la na seznamu padl\u00fdch voj\u00e1k\u016f. St\u011bpanakert je neleg\u00e1ln\u00edmi bombami srovnan\u00fd se zem\u00ed. Lesy ho\u0159\u00ed a v nich um\u00edraj\u00ed tis\u00edce mlad\u00fdch voj\u00e1k\u016f. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Na ve\u010de\u0159i u Ashotovy rodiny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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N\u011bco z m\u00edstn\u00ed kuchyn\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cestou zp\u011bt do Arm\u00e9nie na n\u00e1s zbylo m\u00edsto a\u017e \u00fapln\u011b vzadu. Jako prvn\u00ed c\u00edt\u00edme z motoru obrovsk\u00fd \u017e\u00e1r.  Za chv\u00edli jej c\u00edt\u00ed i \u0159idi\u010d a autobus kolabuje. V pust\u00e9m La\u010dinsk\u00e9m koridoru \u010dek\u00e1me na n\u00e1hradn\u00ed v\u016fz. P\u0159ijede za hodinu, m\u016f\u017eeme pokra\u010dovat d\u00e1l. B\u011bhem p\u011bti minut v\u0161ichni c\u00edt\u00edme stra\u0161n\u00fd smrad. P\u0159estaly fungovat brzdy. A tak zase hodinu \u010dek\u00e1me na nov\u00fd minibus. A v\u00edte, co je na tom nejlep\u0161\u00ed? Nikdo nenad\u00e1v\u00e1, nikdo se neroz\u010diluje. Lid\u00e9 se p\u0159\u00e1telsky bav\u00ed, sm\u011bj\u00ed a op\u011bt vyzv\u00eddaj\u00ed, jak se n\u00e1m u nich l\u00edbilo. Vesel\u00fd p\u00e1n si n\u00e1s fot\u00ed na mobil. \u017dije v Jerevanu a do St\u011bpanakertu jezd\u00ed pracovat do tov\u00e1rny. Je mu hodn\u011b p\u0159es sedmdes\u00e1t. S\u00edla m\u00edstn\u00edch lid\u00ed je v jejich soudr\u017enosti.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Nedobrovoln\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka v La\u010dinsk\u00e9m koridoru<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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CO \u0158\u00cdCT Z\u00c1V\u011aREM A KDO ZV\u00cdT\u011aZIL VE V\u00c1LCE 2020?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Cestovala jsem po nem\u00e1lo zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch a exotick\u00fdch zem\u00edch. N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach pat\u0159\u00ed k nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm kout\u016fm, jak\u00e9 jsem kdy nav\u0161t\u00edvila. Dodnes si pamatuji v\u0161echny p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9 lidi, kter\u00e9 jsem potkala. Takov\u00fd Karabach u\u017e asi neuvid\u00edm, ale centr\u00e1ln\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st pod kontrolou \u00c1zer\u016f nebude. <\/span><\/p>\n

I kdy\u017e dikt\u00e1tor Alijev splnil t\u0159icetilet\u00fd sen sv\u00fdch poddan\u00fdch, vr\u00e1til jim kdysi zabran\u00e9 okresy okolo N\u00e1horn\u00edho  Karabachu a jeho rodina m\u016f\u017ee d\u00e1l ovl\u00e1dat st\u00e1tn\u00ed ropn\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti  a fal\u0161ovat volby, nen\u00ed v\u00edt\u011bz. Podzimn\u00ed v\u00e1lka roku 2020 kone\u010dn\u011b otev\u0159ela cestu z \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu do od\u0159\u00edznut\u00e9 autonomie Nachi\u010devan a d\u00e1l do Turecka, jen\u017ee d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd La\u010dinsk\u00fd koridor (o kter\u00fd \u0161lo p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm) a cestu nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d Arm\u00e9ni\u00ed bude ovl\u00e1dat Rusko. Nebude to p\u011bt nebo deset let, jak se v\u0161ude p\u00ed\u0161e. Jen si vzpome\u0148me t\u0159eba na Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed. Pod nadvl\u00e1dou Ruska bude minim\u00e1ln\u011b do Putinovy smrti. T\u00edmto z\u00edskalo Rusko ohromn\u00fd vliv na \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n a Arm\u00e9nii. Nesm\u00edme opomenout Gruzii (Abch\u00e1zie, Ji\u017en\u00ed Osetie) a moldavsk\u00e9 Podn\u011bst\u0159\u00ed. Krym si u\u017e vzal, dal\u0161\u00ed na \u0159ad\u011b je Don\u011bcko a Luhansk. Putin si bere zp\u011bt to, co Rusko v 90. letech ztratilo  Politick\u00e1 mapa sv\u011bta se pomalu za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 p\u0159ekreslovat.<\/span><\/p>\n

Aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdvoj v listopadu 2020: m\u011bsto La\u010din by m\u011bl mo\u017en\u00e1 z\u016fstat Arm\u00e9n\u016fm, katedr\u00e1la v \u0160u\u0161i je \u00c1zery pomalu ni\u010dena, kl\u00e1\u0161ter Dadivank v severn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1sti vr\u00e1cen\u00e9 \u00c1zer\u016fm bude pr\u00fd pod kontrolou Ruska. Putin se tak\u00e9 zaru\u010dil, \u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed kl\u00e1\u0161tery ni\u010deny nebudou. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Modl\u00edm se za m\u00edr, modl\u00edm se za Republiku Artsakh.<\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1horn\u00ed Karabach<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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ZAJ\u00cdMAV\u00c9 DOKUMENTY:<\/div>
<\/span>BOLAV\u00c1 M\u00cdSTA JI\u017dN\u00cdHO KAVKAZU <\/strong>– problematika N\u00e1horn\u00edho Karabachu z pohledu v\u0161ech z\u00fa\u010dastn\u011bn\u00fdch stran. Ka\u017ed\u00fd m\u00e1 svou verzi, svou pravdu. Dokument \u010cesk\u00e9 televize, po kter\u00e9m budete dlouho p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let. <\/span><\/p>\n