{"id":3898,"date":"2019-04-30T20:46:52","date_gmt":"2019-04-30T19:46:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=3898"},"modified":"2021-01-13T19:49:34","modified_gmt":"2021-01-13T18:49:34","slug":"via-francigena-poutni-cesta-do-rima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/via-francigena-poutni-cesta-do-rima\/","title":{"rendered":"VIA FRANCIGENA – P\u011a\u0160KY DO \u0158\u00cdMA – ETAPY"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nejhez\u010d\u00ed a nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Via Francigeny,<\/strong> poutn\u00ed cesty do \u0158\u00edma,<\/strong> je bezesporu Tosk\u00e1nsko.<\/strong> Nekone\u010dn\u00e9 vinice, olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je, mezi nimi malebn\u00e1 historick\u00e1 m\u011bste\u010dka. Zapome\u0148te na probl\u00e9my v\u0161edn\u00edho dne a vydejte se po sluncem zalit\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch za nov\u00fdmi z\u00e1\u017eitky a <\/span>skv\u011bl\u00fdm Chianti. 
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Ub\u011bhl rok od nam\u00e1hav\u00e9 cesty norskou divo\u010dinou<\/a><\/span>. Vzpom\u00ednky na strastipln\u00e9 chv\u00edle vybledly, touha vz\u00edt krosnu na z\u00e1da, \u0161lapat dal\u0161\u00ed stovky kilometr\u016f a za\u017e\u00edt nov\u00e1 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed naopak s\u00edlila. A proto\u017ee n\u00e1m chyb\u011bla posledn\u00ed z velk\u00fdch evropsk\u00fdch pout\u00ed, bylo rozhodnuto. Jdeme do \u0158\u00edma! <\/span><\/p>\n

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V\u00edtejte na Via Francigen\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Po Via Francigen\u011b<\/strong>, cest\u011b Frank\u016f, putuj\u00ed v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00ed a poutn\u00edci k hrobu apo\u0161tola Petra ji\u017e od po\u010d\u00e1tku k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed. Z anglick\u00e9ho Canterbury, p\u0159es Francii, \u0160v\u00fdcarsko a It\u00e1lii a\u017e do \u0158\u00edma m\u011b\u0159\u00ed 1700 km. P\u0159esto\u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o nejstar\u0161\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165anskou trasu, je oproti pouti do Santiaga m\u00e1lo zn\u00e1m\u00e1. V\u00edce informac\u00ed naleznete zde:  Via Francigena – WIKIPEDIA.<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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Mapa cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kredenci\u00e1ly – poutn\u00ed pr\u016fkazy<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V polovin\u011b z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed roku 2017 s t\u00e1tou p\u0159il\u00e9t\u00e1me do Mil\u00e1na. V hektick\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b slo\u017eit\u011b hled\u00e1me kancel\u00e1\u0159 (Terre di Mezzo editore<\/strong>, Via Calatafimi 10, 20122 Milano, tel. +39 02 83242426, segreteria@terre.it,<\/a> otev\u0159eno pond\u011bl\u00ed – p\u00e1tek 9:00 -13:00 a 14:00-18:00 hod), kde si koup\u00edme poutn\u00ed pr\u016fkazy (kredenci\u00e1ly – 5 \u20ac). Budeme do nich dost\u00e1vat raz\u00edtka \u2013 d\u016fkaz, \u017ee jsme cestu opravdu u\u0161li. Kni\u017en\u00ed pr\u016fvodce The Via Francigena – 1000 kilometres on foot from Rhe Gran San Bernardo<\/a> je bohu\u017eel vyprodan\u00fd. Je to pr\u016f\u0161vih, informac\u00ed na internetu moc nen\u00ed, od \u010desk\u00fdch poutn\u00edk\u016f t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9. Bohu\u017eel nem\u00e1me \u010das se zastavit v knihkupectv\u00ed a kn\u00ed\u017eku si koupit. Osobn\u011b ji v\u0161em doporu\u010duji, mapy a seznam levn\u00e9ho ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed se v\u00e1m bude velmi hoditi. <\/span><\/p>\n

SEZNAM PRODEJN\u00cdCH M\u00cdST KREDENCI\u00c1L\u016e A KNI\u017dN\u00cdCH PR\u016eVODC\u016e<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Omluvte pros\u00edm hor\u0161\u00ed kvalitu fotografi\u00ed, fo\u0165\u00e1k nepracoval tak, jak m\u011bl.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 1: SARZANA – MASSA <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Cesta za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY:  28,2 KM   <\/span><\/strong>   \"\"<\/a>            <\/p>\n

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Na\u0161e pou\u0165 za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 na sam\u00e9m jihu kraje Ligurie<\/strong>, u katedr\u00e1ly Nanebevzet\u00ed Panny Marie ve m\u011bst\u011b Sarzana.<\/strong> Do roku 1512, kdy se odst\u011bhovali na Korsiku, zde \u017eila rodina Buonaparte, p\u0159edkov\u00e9 slavn\u00e9ho Napoleona I. Dodnes se tu konaj\u00ed napoleonsk\u00e9 slavnosti. <\/sup><\/span><\/p>\n

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Hned z r\u00e1na n\u00e1s pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed sta\u0159\u00edk na mopedu, kter\u00fd vesele hul\u00e1k\u00e1: \u201eBon camino!\u201c \u201e\u0160\u0165astnou cestu!“ T\u00edmto sranda kon\u010d\u00ed. Ztr\u00e1c\u00edme poutn\u00ed zna\u010dku, kdy\u017e ji znovu najdeme, m\u00edsto p\u0159\u00edrodou n\u00e1s vede po frekventovan\u00e9 silnici. Ob\u010das pr\u0161\u00ed, a tak s \u00falevou p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme k m\u011bste\u010dku Massa<\/strong>. Zat\u00edm nem\u016f\u017eeme naj\u00edt \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 poutn\u00ed nebo levn\u00e9 ubytovny, sp\u00edme tedy p\u0159es airbnb u <\/span>m\u00edstn\u00edch. S vysm\u00e1tou Italkou Federicou si okam\u017eit\u011b padneme do oka. Moc si u n\u00ed neodpo\u010dineme, nad lahv\u00ed v\u00edna si pov\u00edd\u00e1me skoro a\u017e do r\u00e1na. Sarzanou jsme pr\u00fd opustili Ligurii a nyn\u00ed se nach\u00e1z\u00edme na severu <\/span>Tosk\u00e1nska<\/strong>. Tohle je\u0161t\u011b nen\u00ed Tosk\u00e1nsko, kter\u00e9 zn\u00e1me z \u010dasopis\u016f. Je hornat\u00e9, zelen\u00e9 a m\u00e1lo turistick\u00e9. Ale pr\u00fd se m\u00e1me na co t\u011b\u0161it.<\/span><\/span>
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DEN 2: MASSA – CAMAIORE <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Severn\u00ed Tosk\u00e1nsko<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: 25,9 KM<\/span><\/strong>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u0160\u00e1lek skv\u011bl\u00e9ho espressa s v\u00fdhledem na mo\u0159e a modr\u00e1 obloha bez mr\u00e1\u010dku, dne\u0161n\u00ed den za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 slibn\u011b. Lou\u010d\u00edme se s Federicou se slibem, \u017ee j\u00ed z \u010cech po\u0161lu d\u00e1rek. A taky \u017ee jo! Z<\/span>a p\u00e1r t\u00fddn\u016f u n\u00ed zazvon\u00ed po\u0161\u0165\u00e1k s l\u00e1hv\u00ed dobr\u00e9ho v\u00edna z Hab\u00e1nsk\u00fdch sklep\u016f, a\u0165 m\u00e1 vzpom\u00ednku na rodinu Hab\u00e1\u0148\u016f. <\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Piazza degli Aranci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Katedr\u00e1la San Pietro a Francesco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V centru Massy<\/strong> objevujeme \u00fachvatn\u00e9 n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Piazza degli Aranci s alej\u00ed pomeran\u010dovn\u00edk\u016f, n\u011bkolika pal\u00e1ci a katedr\u00e1lou San Pietro a Francesco. A jako bonus uvnit\u0159 dva poutn\u00edky z Kanady. Pr\u00fd jsme v\u010dera \u0161li po modr\u00e9 zna\u010dce pro cyklisty, \u010derven\u00e1 pro chodce vedla v okoln\u00edch kopc\u00edch. Ukazuj\u00ed n\u00e1m skv\u011blou APLIKACI SLOWAYS<\/a>, d\u00edky kter\u00e9 u\u017e nezabloud\u00edme. V t\u00e9 dob\u011b jsem je\u0161t\u011b nepou\u017e\u00edvala MAPY.CZ<\/a>, kter\u00e9 jsou v\u00fdborn\u00e9 pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed turistiku. 
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Aplikace SloWays<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Poutn\u00ed zna\u010dky – pro cestu do Assisi, pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed a pro cyklisty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Pro milovn\u00edky koup\u00e1n\u00ed se jen p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f odtud nach\u00e1z\u00ed piniov\u00fdmi h\u00e1ji obklopen\u00e9 letovisko Marina di Massa. My v\u0161ak vesele \u0161plh\u00e1me podle zna\u010dek do zelen\u00fdch kopc\u016f a u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy. P\u0159ed setm\u011bn\u00edm dojdeme do prvn\u00ed poutn\u00ed ubytovny (Ostello di Pellegrino) ve m\u011bst\u011b Camaoire<\/strong>. V historick\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9 budov\u011b  sd\u00edl\u00edme skromn\u00fd pokoj s mlad\u00fdm poutn\u00edkem z Mil\u00e1na a francouzsk\u00fdmi man\u017eeli, k ve\u010de\u0159i si pochutn\u00e1me na kroup\u00e1ch se zeleninou a v\u0161e zapijeme d\u017eb\u00e1nem \u010derven\u00e9ho v\u00edna.  Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 se n\u00e1m tu l\u00edbit!<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

DEN 3: CAMAIORE – LUCCA  <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Co k tomu dodat?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY:   <\/span><\/strong>23,8 KM \"\"<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Dnes proch\u00e1z\u00edme malebnou krajinou plnou zelen\u011b. Pr\u00e1v\u011b vrchol\u00ed sb\u011br oliv, m\u00edstn\u00ed upravuj\u00ed sv\u00e9 sady a p\u0159\u00e1telsky n\u00e1s zdrav\u00ed. Zna\u010dky jsou nev\u00fdrazn\u00e9, ob\u010das zabloud\u00edme, d\u00edky aplikaci a v\u011bt\u0161\u00edmu po\u010dtu poutn\u00edk\u016f ztracenou cestu v\u017edy rychle najdeme.<\/span><\/p>\n

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T\u00e1ta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Cesta pln\u00e1 zelen\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Unaven\u00ed ve\u010der doraz\u00edme do Luccy<\/strong>, m\u011bsta sta kostel\u016f.  Za jeho m<\/span>ohutn\u00fdmi hradbami se skr\u00fdv\u00e1 historick\u00e9 centrum s n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00edm Piazza San Michele. Chv\u00edli se koch\u00e1me kr\u00e1sou kostela San Michele in Foro, \u0161koda, \u017ee je v oble\u017een\u00ed turist\u016f. N\u00e1\u0161 hostel v centru m\u011bsta m\u00e1 volno pouze v odd\u011blen\u00fdch pokoj\u00edch pro \u017eeny a mu\u017ee. Nevad\u00ed, jsme na to u\u017e zvykl\u00ed. Poprv\u00e9 tu potk\u00e1v\u00e1m usm\u011bvavou Francouzku Alic\u00ed a kanadskou u\u010ditelku Karen, se kter\u00fdmi se na\u0161e cesty je\u0161t\u011b mnohokr\u00e1t spoj\u00ed. Bydl\u00ed tu s n\u00e1mi velmi podivn\u00e1 d\u00edvka. Kr\u00e1tkovlas\u00e1, na blond odbarven\u00e1 Kub\u00e1nka s temn\u011b planouc\u00edma o\u010dima si po\u0159\u00e1d n\u011bco muml\u00e1 a v pokoji neust\u00e1le p\u0159esunuje n\u00e1bytek. P\u016fsob\u00ed dosti stra\u0161ideln\u011b. Je mi z\u00e1hadou, jak tohle extravagantn\u00ed stvo\u0159en\u00ed z naprost\u00e9 totality m\u016f\u017ee cestovat po Evrop\u011b. Nikdy to u\u017e nezjist\u00edm.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Lucca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Cesta pln\u00e1 zelen\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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DEN 4:  V\u00ddLET DO PISY,  ALTOPASCIO – GALLENO <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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\u0160ikm\u00e1 v\u011b\u017e v Pise<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Altopascio – Galleno<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

D\u00c9LKA TRASY: 8 KM  <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00c9LKA OFICI\u00c1LN\u00cd TRASY LUCCA –  GALLENO:  26,2 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed atrakc\u00ed \u0161iroko daleko je bezesporu Torre pendente – <\/span>\u0161ikm\u00e1 v\u011b\u017e v<\/strong> Pise.<\/strong> Byl by h\u0159\u00edch nevid\u011bt ji. Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se mimo poutn\u00ed cestu, do Pisy tedy jedeme p\u0159ecpan\u00fdm vlakem. Sam\u00ed turist\u00e9. Dav n\u00e1s vle\u010de \u0161irok\u00fdmi bulv\u00e1ry a\u017e k N\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed z\u00e1zrak\u016f (Piazza del Miracoli)<\/span><\/strong>, zvan\u00e9m t\u00e9\u017e<\/span> Katedr\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed (Piazza del Duomo)<\/span><\/strong>, kde tato nep\u0159ehl\u00e9dnuteln\u00e1, 57 metr\u016f vysok\u00e1 kr\u00e1ska stoj\u00ed. Bl\u00e1hov\u011b jsem se domn\u00edvala, \u017ee takhle brzy r\u00e1no tu moc lid\u00ed nebude. Omyl! Je zcela v oble\u017een\u00ed turist\u016f ze v\u0161ech mo\u017en\u00fdch kout\u016f sv\u011bta. Projdeme n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed, nakoukneme do katedr\u00e1ly a prch\u00e1me z turistick\u00e9ho pekla za klidem. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

Vlakem p\u0159ejedeme do m\u011bste\u010dka Atopascio,<\/strong> kde potk\u00e1v\u00e1me vysm\u00e1tou Alici a n\u011bkolik dal\u0161\u00edch poutn\u00edk\u016f. Dnes je nemo\u017en\u00e9 sehnat nocleh, pr\u00fd tu putuje n\u011bkolik velk\u00fdch skupin, kter\u00e9 v\u0161e obsadily. Nakonec se na n\u00e1s usm\u011bje \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed v kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 haciend\u011b La Bigattiera<\/strong> u vesni\u010dky Galleno<\/strong>, kde p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e1 farm\u00e1\u0159ka pronaj\u00edm\u00e1 luxusn\u00ed zahradn\u00ed domky (40 \u20ac\/domek). K ve\u010de\u0159i n\u00e1m doveze pizzu a v\u011bnuje l\u00e1hev dom\u00e1c\u00edho v\u00edna. Tak skv\u011ble se n\u00e1m u\u017e dlouho nespalo. Mo\u017en\u00e1 proto, \u017ee v noci za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 pr\u0161et.
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DEN 5: GALLENO –  SAN MINIATO <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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San Miniato<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: 20,5 KM  \"\"<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Hust\u011b pr\u0161\u00ed skoro cel\u00fd den. V les\u00edch n\u00e1m to moc nevad\u00ed, v m\u011bste\u010dk\u00e1ch trochu uschneme v kav\u00e1rn\u011b u cappuccina. V\u0161ude je mo\u017enost doplnit z\u00e1soby – oblo\u017een\u00e9 bagety j\u00edme r\u00e1no, v poledne, \u010dasto i ve\u010der. Sem tam si dop\u0159ejeme vaj\u00ed\u010dka, v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b pizzu. Oproti norsk\u00e9 cest\u011b sv. Olafa se ale ka\u017ed\u00fd den zastav\u00edme na skv\u011blou italskou k\u00e1vu a skleni\u010dku \u010derven\u00e9ho. Co si budeme pov\u00eddat, \u010dlov\u011bku to dod\u00e1 energii a zvedne n\u00e1ladu. Po celodenn\u00ed f\u00e1dn\u00ed krajin\u011b doraz\u00edme v prudk\u00e9m lij\u00e1ku k mal\u00e9 ubytovn\u011b v m\u011bste\u010dku San Miniato.<\/strong> U\u017e zd\u00e1lky n\u00e1s srde\u010dn\u011b v\u00edtaj\u00ed Karen s Alic\u00ed (Ostello di San Miniato – 16 \u20ac\/os.). Jsou tu dv\u011b lo\u017enice, v ka\u017ed\u00e9 osm postel\u00ed. Tu na\u0161i sd\u00edl\u00edme s postar\u0161\u00edm italsk\u00fdm p\u00e1rem, kter\u00fd putuje a\u017e z parmaz\u00e1nov\u00e9 Parmy. Ve\u010der se v\u0161ichni sejdeme u dobr\u00e9ho v\u00edna a pomoc\u00ed italsko-anglicko-\u010desk\u00e9 konverzace tu panuje naprosto skv\u011bl\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 6. SAN MINIATO – GAMBASSI TERME <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: 23,9 KM <\/strong> \"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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U rann\u00ed k\u00e1vy si pro\u010d\u00edt\u00e1m Karin pr\u016fvodce, kde je seznam nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Vzpomenu si, \u017ee n\u011bco podobn\u00e9ho m\u00e1m ulo\u017een\u00e9 v telefonu. Opravdu! Od t\u00e9to chv\u00edle u\u017e nikdy nebudeme slo\u017eit\u011b hledat ani draze platit za nocleh (seznam v PDF na konci \u010dl\u00e1nku). Po de\u0161ti nen\u00ed ani pam\u00e1tky, azurov\u00e9 nebe slibuje kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed. Z vrcholku San Miniata<\/strong> se p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi otev\u00edr\u00e1 \u00fachvatn\u00fd pohled do krajiny. \u201eTady za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 to prav\u00e9 Tosk\u00e1nsko\u201c, prohod\u00ed kolemjdouc\u00ed p\u00e1n.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Tosk\u00e1nsko<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Mezi cyp\u0159i\u0161i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Lesy miz\u00ed, poln\u00edch cest p\u0159ib\u00fdv\u00e1. V\u0161ude okolo se t\u00e1hnou vinice vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9ho Chianti, hust\u00e9 olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je a urostl\u00e9 cyp\u0159i\u0161e, pro zdej\u0161\u00ed kraj typick\u00e9 jehli\u010dnany podobn\u00e9 tis\u016fm. Je tu u\u017e tak\u00e9 pom\u011brn\u011b plno, potk\u00e1v\u00e1me poutn\u00edky ze v\u0161ech mo\u017en\u00fdch kout\u016f sv\u011bta. Australany, Ameri\u010dany, Asiaty, dva postar\u0161\u00ed N\u011bmce na\u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed po vychlazen\u00e9m pivu, a taky velkou skupinu znud\u011bn\u00fdch italsk\u00fdch st\u0159edo\u0161kol\u00e1k\u016f. Ti by si m\u00edsto pochodu to pivo ur\u010dit\u011b tak\u00e9 rad\u011bji dali. Prohod\u00edm p\u00e1r slov se sv\u00e9r\u00e1znou N\u011bmkou Monikou, pozdrav\u00edm okolo proch\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed Karen, tohle je na poutn\u00edch cest\u00e1ch to nejlep\u0161\u00ed, sd\u00edlet je se stejn\u011b nalad\u011bn\u00fdmi lidmi. Kdy\u017e odpoledne zakryj\u00ed nebesa \u010dern\u00e9 mraky, zabo\u010d\u00edme do baru u cesty. P\u0159ised\u00e1me si k n\u011bmeck\u00e9mu triu Monice a dv\u011bma \u017e\u00edzniv\u00fdm poutn\u00edk\u016fm,  kte\u0159\u00ed se kone\u010dn\u011b do\u010dkali vytou\u017een\u00e9ho piva. Tady poprv\u00e9 sly\u0161\u00edme o polsk\u00e9 stezce do \u010censtochov\u00e9<\/a>. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Hostel Sigerico<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Chianti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Dnes budeme sp\u00e1t v \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9m<\/span> starobyl\u00e9m hostelu (Ostello Sigerico – 42 \u20ac\/pokoj). A jak jinak zakon\u010dit pohodov\u00fd den ne\u017e l\u00e1hv\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00edho Chianti   <\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 7: GAMBASSI TERME – SAN GIMIGNANO <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Na cest\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>16 KM <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Jako v\u011bt\u0161ina tosk\u00e1nsk\u00fdch m\u011bste\u010dek je i Gambassi Terme<\/strong> naprosto okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed. Kamenn\u00e9 domky s historick\u00fdmi v\u011b\u017eemi na kopci jsou obklopen\u00e9 malebnou krajinou, rann\u00ed k\u00e1va chutn\u00e1 na terase kav\u00e1rny naprosto skv\u011ble a upov\u00eddan\u00fd prodava\u010d n\u00e1m na cestu p\u0159ihod\u00ed velk\u00fd kus s\u00fdra.  Dne\u0161n\u00ed \u00fasek je je\u0161t\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e ten v\u010dera. Zvln\u011bn\u00e1 krajina je poseta nekone\u010dn\u00fdmi vinicemi, olivovn\u00edky a mohutn\u00fdmi cyp\u0159i\u0161i, v\u00fdhledy do okol\u00ed jsou naprosto fantastick\u00e9. Velk\u00fd pod\u00edl na tom m\u00e1 i azurov\u00e9 nebe a slun\u00ed\u010dko. P\u0159edb\u00edhaj\u00ed n\u00e1s ital\u0161t\u00ed st\u0159edo\u0161kol\u00e1ci, pr\u00fd jdou jen do Sieny, tak n\u00e1m u\u017e nebudou obsazovat ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Skupina Filip\u00ednc\u016f popojde p\u011b\u0161ky jen n\u011bjak\u00fd ten kilometr, pak jim cestovka doveze ob\u010derstven\u00ed a zbytek cesty se vezou mikrobusem.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
San Gimignano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
San Gimignano<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V d\u00e1lce na kopci se ty\u010d\u00ed mohutn\u00e9 hradby a v\u011b\u017ee st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9ho m\u011bsta. San<\/strong> Gimignano<\/strong>. N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko je dal\u0161\u00ed turistickou atrakc\u00ed Tosk\u00e1nska. \u00dazk\u00e9 historick\u00e9 ulice jsou tak nap\u011bchov\u00e1ny lidmi, \u017ee nem\u016f\u017eeme ani proj\u00edt. Na chv\u00edli si odpo\u010dineme u p\u0159edra\u017een\u00e9, ale naprosto vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed k\u00e1vy a rychle p\u0159ed davy ut\u00edk\u00e1me pry\u010d. P\u00e1r kilometr\u016f odtud je na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed kemp Boschetto di Piemma<\/strong>, kde se za p\u00e1r euro (10 \u20ac\/os.) ubytujeme v pohodln\u00fdch mobiln\u00edch domc\u00edch. Z vedlej\u0161\u00ed terasy n\u00e1s zdrav\u00ed ital\u0161t\u00ed man\u017eele z Parmy. V are\u00e1lu je dokonce i baz\u00e9n a restaurace, my si v\u0161ak z\u016fstaneme u na\u0161ich obl\u00edben\u00fdch baget a tvrd\u011b us\u00edn\u00e1me.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 8: SAN GIMIGNANO –  ABBADIA ISOLA <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Na cest\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>22 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Stezka n\u00e1s vede mezi kopci a p\u0159es zelen\u00e9 louky,. Je n\u00e1m velkou z\u00e1hadou, kam se dnes pod\u011bli v\u0161ichni poutn\u00edci.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Cel\u00fd den toti\u017e v\u016fbec nikoho nepotk\u00e1me. Tato trasa m\u00e1 sice alternativn\u00ed variantu p\u0159es Monteriggioni, \u017ee by ale v\u0161ichni \u0161li tudy? Lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00e1 krajina a levn\u00e9 vesnick\u00e9 bary jsou v\u0161ak velmi p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9. Ke konci dne p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme olivov\u00fdmi h\u00e1ji k \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9mu m\u011bste\u010dku Abbadia Isola<\/strong>, b\u00fdval\u00e9mu rom\u00e1nsk\u00e9mu opatstv\u00ed z 12. stolet\u00ed<\/span>. V jeho interi\u00e9ru jsou ukryty fresky od Taddea di Bartolo a Vincenza Tamagniho a tak\u00e9 renesan\u010dn\u00ed olt\u00e1\u0159. A tady budeme dnes sp\u00e1t (Ostello Contesa – 16 \u20ac\/os.). V prostorn\u00fdch sd\u00edlen\u00fdch lo\u017enic\u00edch s kovov\u00fdmi postelemi jsme \u00fapln\u011b sami. Po setm\u011bn\u00ed je n\u00e1dvo\u0159\u00ed kouzeln\u011b nasv\u00edceno, tady se n\u00e1m opravdu moc l\u00edb\u00ed. A tak dnes vynech\u00e1me bagety a docela se roz\u0161oupneme v m\u00edstn\u00ed pizzerii.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 9: ABBADIA ISOLA – SIENA <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Starov\u011bk\u00e9 tvrze pod\u00e9l cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY:  23,5 KM<\/strong> \"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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V rann\u00ed mlze opou\u0161t\u00edme kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko. Vinice a cyp\u0159i\u0161e vyst\u0159\u00eddaly poln\u00edmi cesty a st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9 tvrze s vysok\u00fdmi v\u011b\u017eemi. Z d\u00e1lky na n\u00e1s m\u00e1v\u00e1 vit\u00e1ln\u00ed sta\u0159\u00edk a zve na mal\u00e9 ob\u010derstven\u00ed. M\u00edsto sklenky dom\u00e1c\u00edho v\u00edna n\u00e1m nato\u010d\u00ed rovnou celou l\u00e1hev a dost\u00e1v\u00e1me n\u011bkolik uva\u0159en\u00fdch vajec. P\u0159i dotazu co za to, dostaneme odpov\u011b\u010f: \u201eOferta.“ Plat\u00ed se tolik, kolik uzn\u00e1me za vhodn\u00e9. Sed\u00ed tu spousta jin\u00fdch poutn\u00edk\u016f, dokonce potk\u00e1v\u00e1me Karen a italsk\u00fd p\u00e1r. V\u016fbec netu\u0161\u00edm, kudy v\u010dera \u0161li. Po zbytek dne jdeme ne p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 zaj\u00edmavou krajinou a\u017e do Sieny. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_8_placeholder\n

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\"\"<\/a>
N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 uli\u010dky historick\u00e9 Sieny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Piazza del Campo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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M\u011bsto, typick\u00e9 stavbami z \u010derven\u00fdch cihel, se rozprost\u00edr\u00e1 na t\u0159ech vysok\u00fdch pahorc\u00edch: D\u00e1 n\u00e1m po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zabrat, ne\u017e je vy\u0161lapeme. Modern\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jen rychle prob\u011bhneme, za mohutn\u00fdmi st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdmi hradbami se v\u0161ak ukr\u00fdv\u00e1 jeden z nejhez\u010d\u00edch klenot\u016f na Via Francigen\u011b. Bohu\u017eel i zde je p\u0159epln\u011bno. \u00dazk\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami mezi vysok\u00fdmi domy dojdeme ke sluncem zalit\u00e9mu n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed Piazza del Campo. Ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u011b se tu kon\u00e1 Palla, ko\u0148sk\u00e9 dostihy. Soupe\u0159\u00ed mezi sebou jezdci z jednotliv\u00fdch \u010dtvrt\u00ed m\u011bsta. V\u00edt\u011bzov\u00e9 maj\u00ed pot\u00e9 pr\u00e1vo uspo\u0159\u00e1dat po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd mejdan v \u010d\u00e1sti, kter\u00e1 dostih prohr\u00e1la, a to bez jak\u00fdchkoliv postih\u016f. Dnes budeme sp\u00e1t na farnosti (Accoglienza Santa Luisa). Klepeme na dve\u0159e kl\u00e1\u0161tera, \u0159\u00e1dov\u00e1 sestra n\u00e1s nasm\u011bruje na vedlej\u0161\u00ed budovu. Farnost \u0159\u00edd\u00ed Chorvat, kter\u00fd utekl z b\u00fdval\u00e9 Jugosl\u00e1vie p\u0159ed zv\u011brstvy v\u00e1lky. Ubytuje n\u00e1s ve skromn\u00e9m, ale moc p\u011bkn\u00e9m pokoj\u00ed\u010dku a v osm hodin je pr\u00fd ve\u010de\u0159e. Povinn\u011b! Moc tomu nerozum\u00edme, po odezn\u011bn\u00ed zvonu v osm hodin v\u0161ak u\u017e poslu\u0161n\u011b sed\u00edme v j\u00eddeln\u011b s ostatn\u00edmi poutn\u00edky. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 modlitb\u011b  se pr\u00fd m\u00e1me v kuchyni obslou\u017eit. Tolik j\u00eddla jsme u\u017e dlouho nevid\u011bli. Du\u0161en\u00e1 zelenina, grilovan\u00e1 masa, p\u0159\u00edlohy, pizza, sal\u00e1ty, ovoce. Poutn\u00edci z Francie rozl\u00e9vaj\u00ed lahodn\u00e9 v\u00edno a vl\u00e1dne tu pohodov\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra. Stra\u0161n\u011b se s t\u00e1tou p\u0159ej\u00edme.Dal\u0161\u00ed dny se r\u00e1di vrac\u00edme na bagetovou dietu.  <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_9_placeholder\n

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DEN 10: SIENA – PONTE D\u00b4ARBIA <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Podzimn\u00ed krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>25, 7 KM <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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R\u00e1no dokonce dostaneme i sn\u00eddani, pro Italy typick\u00e9 sladk\u00e9 pe\u010divo a k\u00e1vu. A kolik to v\u0161e st\u00e1lo? Op\u011bt oferta. Tolik, kolik uzn\u00e1me za vhodn\u00e9. Lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00fdmi ulicemi opou\u0161t\u00edme do rann\u00ed mlhy pono\u0159enou kr\u00e1snou Sienu. <\/span><\/p>\n

Tosk\u00e1nsko je jist\u011b nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na ja\u0159e, kdy se v\u0161e zelen\u00e1 \u010di na konci l\u00e9ta s l\u00e1ny slune\u010dnic a zlat\u00e9ho obil\u00ed. Te\u010f na konci z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed jsou zoran\u00e1 pole hn\u011bd\u00e1, kr\u00e1sa cyp\u0159i\u0161\u016f pod\u00e9l cest tak v\u016fbec nevynikne. P\u0159es po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed de\u0161t\u011b n\u00e1m ale po\u010das\u00ed p\u0159eje, je slune\u010dno s p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdmi teplotami. A takto to bude a\u017e do konce. Naopak v l\u00e9t\u011b teploty p\u0159esahuj\u00ed 40 \u00b0C, putovat v takov\u00e9m vedru si nedovedu p\u0159edstavit. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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Dne\u0161n\u00ed trasa je nudn\u00e1, dlouh\u00e1 a bol\u00ed m\u011b noha. Nocleh m\u00e1me v levn\u00e9m k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9m za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed (Centro Cresti – 5 \u20ac\/os.), kde sd\u00edl\u00edme pokoj s poutn\u00edkem ze \u0160v\u00fdcarska. Vypad\u00e1 jako Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 a u\u017e \u0161est m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f putuje ze \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9ho Santiaga do \u0158\u00edma. Obdivuhodn\u00fd v\u00fdkon. Tak\u00e9 obdivuhodn\u011b chr\u00e1pe. Dokonce dvojmo. Nosem i pusou. Na\u0161e noc je jako u\u0161n\u00ed masakr motorovou pilou. Ani j\u00e1, ani t\u00e1ta se v noci nevysp\u00edme. Ale \u0161v\u00fdcarsk\u00fd Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 ano, brzy r\u00e1no zcela sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed uh\u00e1n\u00ed sm\u011br \u0158\u00edm. Na bolav\u00e9 noze m\u00e1m velk\u00fd otlak, co\u017e je u m\u011b – diabetika, probl\u00e9m. V\u00e1\u017en\u00fd probl\u00e9m.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_10_placeholder\n

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DEN 11: PONTE D\u00b4ARBIA – BUONCONVENTO <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Uli\u010dky v Buonconventu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>5,2 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Noha si mus\u00ed odpo\u010dinout, jdeme tedy jen p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f lesnatou krajinou do mal\u00e9ho m\u011bste\u010dka Buonconvento.<\/strong> R\u00e1di bychom popojeli je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1l, jen\u017ee je ned\u011ble a v\u016fbec nic odtud nejede. Je nemo\u017en\u00e9 sehnat ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed, nakonec se nad n\u00e1mi slituje mlad\u00e1 Italka a p\u0159\u00edmo v historick\u00e9m centru n\u00e1m pronajme pokoj. Ve m\u011bst\u011b se toti\u017e konaj\u00ed velk\u00e9 slavnosti v\u00edna. Dop\u0159\u00e1v\u00e1m noze klid, odpoledne n\u00e1s ale p\u0159em\u016f\u017ee zv\u011bdavost a vyraz\u00edme omrknout festival. Zkou\u0161\u00edme skv\u011bl\u00e9 lasagne, du\u0161en\u00e1 j\u00e1tra, grilovan\u00e9 maso, kol\u00e1\u010dky, v\u0161e zapijeme pan\u00e1\u010dkem m\u00edstn\u00ed p\u00e1lenky a m\u00edstn\u00edm v\u00ednem. Jinak to na oslav\u00e1ch v\u00edna ani nejde.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_11_placeholder\n

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DEN 12: BUONCONVENTO – SAN QUIRICO <\/span><\/strong>D\u00b4ORCIA <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Cyp\u0159i\u0161ov\u00e9 aleje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>21 KM <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Otlak se na odpo\u010dat\u00e9 noze zmen\u0161il, pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l. Dne\u0161n\u00ed \u00fasek je jeden z nejhez\u010d\u00edch. Kam oko dohl\u00e9dne, v\u0161ude sluncem zalit\u00e9 vinice, olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je a aleje mohutn\u00fdch cyp\u0159i\u0161\u016f. Pod\u00e9l cesty je n\u011bkolik vina\u0159stv\u00ed, ochutn\u00e1vku jejich v\u00edn nevynech\u00e1me my ani jin\u00ed poutn\u00edci. Hned se n\u00e1m jde zvesela.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
T\u00e1ta s \u010dasopisem History, ve kter\u00e9m mu v\u017edy jeho fotografii z cest otisknou.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Okoln\u00ed krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Odpoledne doraz\u00edme do San Quirica d\u00b4Orcia<\/strong>, dal\u0161\u00edho z mal\u00fdch tosk\u00e1nsk\u00fdch m\u011bst s kouzelnou atmosf\u00e9rou. U hezk\u00e9ho kostela v centru stoj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edmo naproti sob\u011b dv\u011b poutn\u00ed ubytovny. Rozhodneme se pro  Palazzo del Pellegrinose (10 \u20ac\/os.). Ve sd\u00edlen\u00e9 lo\u017enici potk\u00e1v\u00e1me na\u0161i zn\u00e1mou Karen a n\u011bkolik sympatick\u00fdch poutn\u00edk\u016f, zejm\u00e9na z N\u011bmecka. T\u011bch je na v\u0161ech poutn\u00edch cest\u00e1ch nejv\u00edce. Projdeme si s t\u00e1tou kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 historick\u00e9 centrum, zajdeme na pizzu a chyst\u00e1me se j\u00edt sp\u00e1t.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Kostel v centru San Quirica<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Kanadsko.-n\u011bmecko-\u010desk\u00e9(+dal\u0161\u00ed zem\u011b) poutn\u00ed posezen\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Karen m\u011b ale p\u0159emluv\u00ed, a\u0165 jdu s n\u00ed a na\u0161\u00ed n\u011bmeckou kamar\u00e1dkou  Monikou, kter\u00e1 je v druh\u00e9 ubytovn\u011b, na sklenku v\u00edna. Sklenka v\u00edna se zm\u011bn\u00ed v p\u00e1r lahvinek spolu s ostatn\u00edmi poutn\u00edky, bujar\u00fd ve\u010d\u00edrek kon\u010d\u00ed dlouho po p\u016flnoci. To je naposledy, co sv\u00e9 drah\u00e9 kamar\u00e1dky z Via Francigeny vid\u00edm.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 13: SAN QUIRICO – RADICOFANI<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>32,2 KM <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed \u00fasek San Quirico – Radicofani<\/strong> je hornat\u00fdch 33 km. V polovin\u011b cesty je sice ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v Gallinu<\/strong> a vede tu i alternativn\u00ed trasa p\u0159es Abbadia San Salvator,<\/strong> nikde se mi v\u0161ak neda\u0159\u00ed sehnat nocleh. Ruku na srdce, tohle bychom asi nezvl\u00e1dli, a proto\u017ee jsme v Buonconventu ztratili den, p\u0159ejedeme tento \u00fasek autobusem. Je sice velmi hornat\u00fd, ale naprosto fam\u00f3zn\u00ed. Docela m\u011b mrz\u00ed, \u017ee jsme ho ne\u0161li p\u011b\u0161ky. Jak pozd\u011bji zjist\u00edm, p\u011b\u0161ky ho z\u0159ejm\u011b ne\u0161el nikdo z na\u0161ich poutn\u00edch p\u0159\u00e1tel.<\/span><\/p>\n

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RADICOFANI – AQUAPENDENTE <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Pohled na Radicofani<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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D\u00c9LKA TRASY: \"\"<\/a>23,9 KM <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Radicofani <\/strong> je je\u0161t\u011b v\u00edce okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed ne\u017e p\u0159edchoz\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dka. Nad hlubok\u00fdm \u00fadol\u00edm se ty\u010d\u00ed kamenn\u00e9 domky seskupen\u00e9 kolem kostela a vrcholku zvan\u00e9ho Rocca. Prohod\u00edme p\u00e1r slov s poutn\u00edky z dalek\u00e9 Braz\u00edlie, vychutn\u00e1me skv\u011bl\u00e9 espresso a po h\u0159ebenu hor sm\u011b\u0159ujeme \u00fadol\u00edm Val d\u00b4Orcia na jih. V\u00fdhledy  jsou fantastick\u00e9. Obl\u00e9 kope\u010dky poset\u00e9 tvrzemi a ruinami hrad\u016f se st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed s divokou p\u0159\u00edrodou a rozervan\u00fdmi skalami. Krajina hraje v\u0161emi barvami. Jen\u017ee j\u00e1 tu\u0161\u00edm, \u017ee n\u011bco nen\u00ed v po\u0159\u00e1dku.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Radicofani<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Pohled na Rocca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00fdmi horami sestupujeme do n\u00ed\u017ein, kde se objevuj\u00ed prvn\u00ed usedlosti a vesni\u010dky. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me na\u0161e dva zn\u00e1m\u00e9 N\u011bmce. Evidentn\u011b toho u\u017e maj\u00ed dost a trochu i ponorku. Dlouh\u00fd \u00fasek San Quirico – Radicofani<\/strong> ne\u0161li p\u011b\u0161ky, ale p\u0159ejeli tax\u00edkem. Opou\u0161t\u00edme kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 Tosk\u00e1nsko<\/strong> a pokra\u010dujeme d\u00e1l krajem Lazio<\/strong> nudnou rovinou, p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b po silnici..<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 krajina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Val d\u00b4Orcai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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P\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00edme a\u017e do  Aquapendente,<\/strong> zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00edm v\u00edna, zeleniny a v\u00fdrobou keramiky. M\u011bsto le\u017e\u00ed na vysok\u00e9m kopci a na\u0161e ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed a\u017e na \u00fapln\u00e9m vrcho<\/span>lku. Dnes toti\u017e budeme sp\u00e1t v kl\u00e1\u0161te\u0159e (Associazione Casa di Lazzaro). \u0158\u00e1dov\u00e1 sestra dostane z m\u00e9 kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 sukn\u011b m\u00e1lem infarkt. Jsem hloup\u00e1, \u017ee jsem nezvolila st\u0159\u00eddm\u011bj\u0161\u00ed oble\u010den\u00ed. Kl\u00e1\u0161ter je tich\u00fd, sp\u00edme v mr\u0148av\u00fdch dvojl\u016f\u017ekov\u00fdch kom\u016frk\u00e1ch, k dispozici m\u00e1me \u010dist\u00e9 koupelny na chodb\u011b,  skv\u011ble vybavenou kuchy\u0148 a pr\u00e1delnu.<\/span> I zde plat\u00edme ofertu. T\u00e1ta ut\u00edk\u00e1  do m\u011bsta koupit n\u011bjak\u00e9 j\u00eddlo, a koho tu nepotk\u00e1! Na\u0161i kanadskou kamar\u00e1dku Karen, se kterou jsem v\u010dera ve\u010der v\u0159ele pop\u00edjela. Je n\u00e1m z\u00e1hadou, jak za dne\u0161n\u00ed den zvl\u00e1dla <\/span>p\u0159es 50 kilometr\u016f. T\u011b\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1s, \u017ee nejsme jedin\u00ed, co ob\u010das cestuj\u00ed jinak ne\u017e p\u011b\u0161ky.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Sm\u011br ob\u010derstven\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Na\u0161e ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed v Aqapendente<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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M\u011b v\u0161ak tr\u00e1p\u00ed jin\u00e1 v\u011bc. Velk\u00e1 bolest nohy,. Pos\u00edl\u00e1m fotku otlaku kamar\u00e1dovi chirurgovi, ten mi okam\u017eit\u011b zakazuje j\u00edt d\u00e1l. Ban\u00e1ln\u00ed otlak u zdrav\u00e9ho \u010dlov\u011bka nic neznamen\u00e1, u m\u011b, dlouholet\u00e9ho diabetika, m\u016f\u017ee skon\u010dit i amputac\u00ed nohy. Tohle u\u017e nesprav\u00ed ani p\u00e1r dn\u00ed odpo\u010dinku. Zdrcen\u011b to oznamuji t\u00e1tovi, tak moc m\u011b to mrz\u00ed. Do c\u00edle n\u00e1m zb\u00fdv\u00e1 t\u00fdden ch\u016fze a 160 km. T\u00e1ta jen m\u00e1vne rukou: \u201eZdrav\u00ed je p\u0159edn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, p\u0159ece se nevr\u00e1t\u00ed\u0161 bez nohy.\u201c Uva\u0159\u00ed skv\u011blou ve\u010de\u0159i a pak vy\u010derpan\u00ed nam\u00e1havou cestou i ne\u0161\u0165astnou situac\u00ed us\u00edn\u00e1me.<\/span><\/p>\n

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DEN 14: AQUAPENDENTE – \u0158\u00cdM – SARDINIE<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

R\u00e1no je moud\u0159ej\u0161\u00edho ve\u010dera. Jsme sv\u011b\u017e\u00ed a veselej\u0161\u00ed. Naposledy se koch\u00e1me v\u00fdhledy na kr\u00e1snou krajinu, s l\u00edtost\u00ed zam\u00e1v\u00e1m na kolemjdouc\u00ed poutn\u00edky, velmi m\u011b mrz\u00ed, \u017ee u\u017e nepotk\u00e1me ty, s kter\u00fdmi jsme se na cest\u011b neust\u00e1le m\u00edjeli. Zbyl\u00e9 kilometry do \u0158\u00edma jedeme autobusem. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme okolo blankytn\u011b modr\u00e9ho jezera Bolsena<\/strong>, kam jsme m\u011bli dnes doj\u00edt, historick\u00fdmi m\u011bste\u010dky, \u010d\u00edm v\u00edce se v\u0161ak bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme k metropoli, p\u0159\u00edroda se m\u011bn\u00ed v betonovou z\u00e1stavbu s dopravn\u00ed z\u00e1cpou. Uva\u017euji, co d\u00e1l.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Sm\u011br \u0158\u00edm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Po pl\u00e1novan\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edchodu do \u0158\u00edma jsme m\u011bli let\u011bt na Sardinii. Letenky za pouh\u00fdch 500 K\u010d nejdou zm\u011bnit a propadaj\u00ed. M\u016f\u017eeme hned odlet\u011bt draze dom\u016f, ale j\u00e1 bych p\u0159ece jen r\u00e1da na p\u00e1r dn\u00ed k mo\u0159i. Na internetu vid\u00edm levn\u00e9 letenky na Sic\u00edlii s n\u00e1vratem do Krakova, t\u00e1ta krout\u00ed hlavou, \u017ee bude l\u00e9tat po cel\u00e9 Evrop\u011b. Netu\u0161\u00ed, \u017ee bude. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\u0158\u00cdM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Na konci cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Turistick\u00e9 peklo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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S t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdmi krosnami se prod\u00edr\u00e1me davy turist\u016f k bazilice svat\u00e9ho Petra<\/strong>, kde Via Francigena<\/strong> kon\u010d\u00ed. Toto kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u00edsto je pro n\u00e1s naprost\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 peklo. Rychle se vyfot\u00edme, poh\u00e1d\u00e1me a ut\u00edk\u00e1me pry\u010d. Dokonce vynech\u00e1me i Koloseum, kam jsme se cht\u011bli pod\u00edvat. Na star\u00e9m n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed v centru m\u011bsta nased\u00e1me na vlak a uj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do 80 kilometr\u016f vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstavu <\/span>Civitavecchi<\/span><\/strong>. Odtud by pr\u00fd m\u011bly jet t\u0159i trajekty na Sardinii.<\/strong> Snad nebudou vyprod\u00e1ny. Dva n\u00e1m ji\u017e ujely, ten posledn\u00ed ve 23 hodin stihneme a voln\u00e9ho m\u00edsta je spousta. Temnou noc\u00ed odplouv\u00e1me Tyrh\u00e9nsk\u00fdm mo\u0159em vst\u0159\u00edc nov\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitk\u016fm. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
\u0158\u00edm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Odjezd na Sardinii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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CO \u0158\u00cdCT Z\u00c1V\u011aREM? <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

B\u011bhem 14 dn\u00ed jsme s t\u00e1tou u\u0161li 270 km nap\u0159\u00ed\u010d cel\u00fdm Tosk\u00e1nskem, nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed cesty. T\u00edmto jsme pro\u0161li v\u0161echny t\u0159i nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed evropsk\u00e9 pout\u011b. Italsk\u00e1 Via Francigena<\/strong>, to jsou vinice, cyp\u0159i\u0161e, olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je a kouzeln\u00e1 historick\u00e1 m\u011bste\u010dka. K tomu \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 \u010derven\u00e9 v\u00edno a skv\u011bl\u00e1 m\u00edstn\u00ed kuchyn\u011b. Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je na cest\u011b m\u00e9n\u011b, je dobr\u00e9 si ho p\u0159edem zajisti, a\u0165 m\u00e1te kde sp\u00e1t. Ze v\u0161ech poutn\u00edch cest se n\u00e1m v\u0161ak nejv\u00edce l\u00edbila portugalsk\u00e1 svatojakubsk\u00e1 cesta do Santiaga.<\/strong> Krajinou, lidmi, atmosf\u00e9rou. Nev\u00e1hejte a i vy okuste kouzlo poutn\u00edch cest. Nen\u00ed d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd c\u00edl, ale cesta samotn\u00e1. Ohromn\u00fd balz\u00e1m pro t\u011blo i pro du\u0161i! Bon camino! \u0160\u0165astnou cestu!<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u016e\u017dE SE HODIT<\/div>
**SKV\u011aLE ZPRACOVAN\u00c1 OFICI\u00c1LN\u00cd STR\u00c1NKA VIA FRANCIGENA<\/a> <\/span><\/strong><\/span>(V ANGLI\u010cTIN\u011a)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**APLIKACE PRO ANDROID A IPHONE<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**KDE KOUPIT KREDENCI\u00c1LY A KNI\u017dN\u00cdHO PR\u016eVODCE<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

**SEZNAM LEVN\u00c9HO UBYTOV\u00c1N\u00cd: <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. PAVIA – VALPROMARO<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/li>\n
  2. LUCCA – ABBADIA SAN SALVATORE<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/li>\n
  3. RADICOFANI – \u0158\u00cdM<\/span><\/strong><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    **DRA\u017d\u0160\u00cd TYP UBYTOV\u00c1N\u00cd<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

      \n
    1.  HOTEL, B&B, AGROTURISTIKA – SARZANA<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/li>\n
    2.  HOTEL, B&B, AGROTURISTIKA – TOSK\u00c1NSKO<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      <\/div><\/div>           <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\nSARDINIE CESTOPIS<\/span><\/a>                                                         VIA FRANCIGENA HUDEBN\u00cd PREZENTACE<\/span><\/a>    <\/p>\n

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      N\u00c1SLEDUJ\u00cdC\u00cd ETAPY CESTY:<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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      1. AQUAPENDENTE – BOLSENA 22, 1 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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      2. BOLSENA – MONTEFIASCONE 17,7 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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      3. MONTEFIASCONE – VITERBO 17,8 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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      4. VITERBO – VETRALLA 16,9 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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      5. VETRALLA – SUTRI 23,6 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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      6. SUTRI – CAMPAGNANO 23,8 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

       <\/p>\n

      7. CAMPAGNANO – LA  STORTA 22,4 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

       <\/p>\n

      8. LA STORTA – \u0158\u00cdM 17,2 KM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

      \"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

       <\/p>\n

      <\/fb:like><\/div>
      <\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Nejhez\u010d\u00ed a nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Via Francigeny, poutn\u00ed cesty do \u0158\u00edma, je bezesporu Tosk\u00e1nsko. Nekone\u010dn\u00e9 vinice, olivov\u00e9 h\u00e1je, mezi nimi malebn\u00e1 historick\u00e1 m\u011bste\u010dka. Zapome\u0148te na probl\u00e9my v\u0161edn\u00edho dne a vydejte se po sluncem zalit\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch za nov\u00fdmi z\u00e1\u017eitky a skv\u011bl\u00fdm Chianti. <\/p>\n

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