{"id":3684,"date":"2019-01-04T10:09:57","date_gmt":"2019-01-04T09:09:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=3684"},"modified":"2021-04-14T12:44:02","modified_gmt":"2021-04-14T11:44:02","slug":"jizni-jordansko-2-cast-aqaba-a-wadi-rum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/jizni-jordansko-2-cast-aqaba-a-wadi-rum\/","title":{"rendered":"JI\u017dN\u00cd JORD\u00c1NSKO (2. \u010c\u00c1ST): AQABA & WADI RUM"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sluncem zalit\u00e1 Aqaba, pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 Rud\u00e9 mo\u0159e a n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 kor\u00e1lov\u00e9 atoly v\u0161ude okolo. Jen o p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f d\u00e1l ve vnitrozem\u00ed sk\u00e1ly nejroztodivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch tvar\u016f a barev ve Wadi Rum, jedn\u00e9 z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pou\u0161t\u00ed sv\u011bta. V\u017edy jsem tou\u017eila Jord\u00e1nsko nav\u0161t\u00edvit. V \u017eivot\u011b by m\u011b ale nenapadlo, \u017ee sem pojedu nat\u00e1\u010det film! <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\nP\u0158EDCHOZ\u00cd SEVERN\u00cd JORD\u00c1NSKO<\/span><\/a>\n

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Nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00e1 m\u00edsta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed filma\u0159sk\u00e9 cesty s dokumentaristkou Janou \u0160ev\u010d\u00edkovou,<\/a>  kameramanem Jarom\u00edrem a zvuka\u0159em Michalem. Tentokr\u00e1t po vyprahl\u00e9m ji\u017en\u00edm Jord\u00e1nsku.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Jord\u00e1nsk\u00e1 vlajka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na sam\u00fd jih zem\u011b p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme d\u00e1lkov\u00fdm autobusem spole\u010dnosti JETT<\/a> a\u017e za tmy. Cel\u00e1 oblast je jedna velk\u00e1 bezceln\u00ed z\u00f3na a mus\u00edme proj\u00edt d\u016fslednou kontrolou. Jord\u00e1nsko sice pat\u0159\u00ed mezi nejbezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zem\u011b Bl\u00edzk\u00e9ho v\u00fdchodu, bezpe\u010dnostn\u00ed slo\u017eky jsou v\u0161ak neust\u00e1le ve st\u0159ehu. V\u0161ichni maj\u00ed v \u017eiv\u00e9 pam\u011bti jedin\u00fd incident z prosince 2016. Sympatizanti Isl\u00e1msk\u00e9ho st\u00e1tu p\u0159epadli policejn\u00ed stanici, n\u00e1sledn\u011b na nedalek\u00e9m hrad\u011b Karak usmrtili n\u011bkolik lid\u00ed. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed byli dopadeni rychle, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed zabiti, ostatn\u00ed odsouzeni k dlouh\u00fdm trest\u016fm a do\u017eivot\u00ed. \u00datok byl reakc\u00ed na jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 \u010dlenstv\u00ed v koalici bojuj\u00edc\u00ed proti IS.<\/span><\/p>\n

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AQABA<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Aqaba<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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AQABA <\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

nejji\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed c\u00edp Jord\u00e1nska a jedin\u00fd p\u0159\u00edstav v zemi se nach\u00e1z\u00ed na b\u0159ez\u00edch pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9ho Rud\u00e9ho mo\u0159e. V Aqabsk\u00e9m z\u00e1livu se jeho vody st\u00fdkaj\u00ed s pevninou \u010dty\u0159 st\u00e1t\u016f: Jord\u00e1nska, Izraele, Egypta a Sa\u00fadsk\u00e9 Ar\u00e1bie. Jord\u00e1nsko nem\u011blo p\u0159\u00edstup k mo\u0159i a\u017e do roku 1965, kdy v\u00fdm\u011bnou za kus pou\u0161t\u011b z\u00edskalo 12 km pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed od Sa\u00fadsk\u00e9 Ar\u00e1bie.  <\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Mimo l\u00e9ta s teplotami p\u0159es 40 \u00b0C zde panuje \u010dil\u00fd turistick\u00fd ruch. Luxusn\u00ed hotely, \u010dist\u00e9 mo\u0159e s kor\u00e1lov\u00fdmi atoly a ceny p\u0159\u00edzniv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e v sousedn\u00edm izraelsk\u00e9m Eilatu l\u00e1kaj\u00ed st\u00e1le v\u00edce n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f.<\/div><\/div><\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00e1me domluveno p\u0159es airbnb, co\u017e je o pron\u00e1jem pokoj\u016f, byt\u016f \u010di cel\u00fdch dom\u016f u m\u00edstn\u00edch lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed si tak r\u00e1di p\u0159ilep\u0161\u00ed. V turistick\u00fdch lokalit\u00e1ch se \u010dasto vyplat\u00ed, tak jako v drah\u00e9 Aqab\u011b<\/strong>. Mlad\u00fd Jord\u00e1nec Ismail n\u00e1s vyzved\u00e1v\u00e1 na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed. V hezk\u00e9m modern\u00edm byt\u011b m\u00e1me k dispozici dva pokoje, jinak je v\u0161e sd\u00edlen\u00e9. Omlouv\u00e1 se, \u017ee n\u00e1s nem\u016f\u017ee prov\u00e9st po m\u011bst\u011b, mimo p\u00e1tek je st\u00e1le v pr\u00e1ci. P\u0159ekvapiv\u011b dob\u0159e mluv\u00ed rusky. N\u011bkolik let toti\u017e let studoval v Kyjev\u011b. Napadlo by v\u00e1s to? Jord\u00e1nec na Ukrajin\u011b?<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Mlad\u00fd prodava\u010d pe\u010diva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 pe\u010divo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kdy\u017e r\u00e1no vst\u00e1v\u00e1me, jsme u\u017e v byt\u011b sami. Ve vedlej\u0161\u00ed ulici je spousta obch\u016fdku s m\u00edstn\u00edmi delikatesami. Chlebov\u00e9 placky kubez, vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed humus z cizrnov\u00e9 pasty tad\u017e\u00edn s olivov\u00fdm olejem a citronem, do k\u0159upava upe\u010den\u00e9 pe\u010divo posypan\u00e9 ko\u0159en\u00edm z\u00e1tor, sm\u011bs\u00ed tymi\u00e1nu, major\u00e1nky a sezamu (manaqish zaatar). Nebo t\u0159eba chutn\u00e9 troj\u00faheln\u00ed\u010dky z listov\u00e9ho t\u011bsta pln\u011bn\u00e9 koz\u00edm s\u00fdrem (ftajer). Sn\u00edd\u00e1me opravdu kr\u00e1lovsky.<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ve\u0159ejn\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u017e v Aqab\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V Aqab\u011b<\/strong> si m\u016f\u017eete vybrat mezi soukromou pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed pro turisty a ve\u0159ejnou pro m\u00edstn\u00ed. Jdeme na ve\u0159ejnou. Aqaba<\/strong> je pom\u011brn\u011b konzervativn\u00ed m\u011bsto. I kdy\u017e m\u00e1m dlouhou sukni, v tri\u010dku s kr\u00e1tk\u00fdm ruk\u00e1vem a bez \u0161\u00e1tku jsem mezi \u017eenami zahalen\u00fdmi od hlavy k pat\u011b jako p\u011bst na oko. Stejn\u011b oble\u010den\u00e9 se i koupou. Neplavou, v jejich oble\u010den\u00ed to ani nen\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9, ve vod\u011b se jen pl\u00e1caj\u00ed nebo nadn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed na gumov\u00fdch kruz\u00edch. Ty \u0161ikovn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed zajedou do mo\u0159e i s ko\u010d\u00e1rkem, voda sah\u00e1 a\u017e po korbu s d\u00edt\u011btem. Rodinky sed\u00ed na dek\u00e1ch, mezi nimi zakotven\u00e9 \u010dluny, na kter\u00fdch si sem tam vyjedou na proj\u00ed\u017e\u010fku. Dle p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed re\u017eis\u00e9rky Jany chod\u00edm sem a tam po pl\u00e1\u017ei a \u0161t\u00e1b nat\u00e1\u010d\u00ed reakce lid\u00ed. P\u00e1r mlad\u00edk\u016f se zept\u00e1, co tu to\u010d\u00edme, mlad\u00e1 sle\u010dna mi nab\u00edz\u00ed pomoc, jinak po mn\u011b v\u0161ichni jen nen\u00e1padn\u011b pokukuj\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Aqabsk\u00e1 me\u0161ita<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ve\u0159ejn\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u017e v Aqab\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ve\u0159ejn\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u017e a nekontaktn\u00ed lid\u00e9 m\u011b nebav\u00ed. Jdu se tedy koupat. V triku a legin\u00e1ch si p\u0159ipad\u00e1m jako nah\u00e1. Ale nakonec si k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lovou vodu u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m, kone\u010dn\u011b si ve vod\u011b s n\u011bk\u00fdm pov\u00edd\u00e1m. Mladink\u00fd Palestinec nen\u00ed \u010dlen Hizball\u00e1hu, studuje medic\u00ednu v Amm\u00e1nu a je nejp\u0159\u00e1tel\u0161t\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010dlov\u011bk, jak\u00e9ho jsem tu potkala. Palestinci tvo\u0159\u00ed t\u0159etinu obyvatel Jord\u00e1nska, b\u011b\u017en\u011b tu studuj\u00ed a pracuj\u00ed.   <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Pohled na prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed Egypt a Izrael<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Pokud zav\u00edt\u00e1te do Aqaby<\/strong>, zajd\u011bte si do resortu na placenou pl\u00e1\u017e. Bude kr\u00e1sn\u011b \u010dist\u00e1, m\u016f\u017eete se koupat v bikin\u00e1ch a vyrazit na turistick\u00e9 lodi \u0161norchlovat mezi n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi kor\u00e1ly. Tohle ani orient\u00e1ln\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru na ve\u0159ejn\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ei neza\u017eijete. P\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b bych to tak ud\u011blala.<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u011aS\u00cd\u010cN\u00cd KRAJINA WADI RUM<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Wadi Rum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Krom\u011b p\u00e1tku jezd\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no z Aqaby<\/strong> minibus do 70 kilometr\u016f vzd\u00e1len\u00e9 vesni\u010dky Rum<\/strong>, vstupn\u00ed br\u00e1ny rezervace Wadi Rum<\/strong>. N\u00e1m se ve \u010dty\u0159ech lidech finan\u010dn\u011b i \u010dasov\u011b vyplat\u00ed taxi. Vstupn\u00ed poplatek 150 K\u010d (5 JOD) je zahrnut v JORDAN PASSu<\/a>, nic platit tedy nemus\u00edme. V\u00edt\u00e1 n\u00e1s Sulieman. Tradice a moderna se v \u017eivot\u011b bedu\u00edn\u016f siln\u011b prol\u00ednaj\u00ed. Chod\u00ed oble\u010deni v dlouh\u00e9 thawbu, \u010dervenob\u00edl\u00e9 kufii na hlav\u011b a n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed maj\u00ed dokonce i v\u00edce man\u017eelek. Televize, dotykov\u00fd telefon a internet je dnes b\u011b\u017enou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jejich \u017eivota. Facebook a Instagram maj\u00ed v\u0161ichni, ka\u017ed\u00fd kemp sv\u00e9 webovky, booking a airbnb. Um\u00ed skv\u011ble anglicky, k\u00e9\u017e bych tak dob\u0159e mluvila i j\u00e1. Kdy\u017e jsem je\u0161t\u011b z domu u Suliemana objedn\u00e1vala kemp, okam\u017eit\u011b mi volal p\u0159es WhatsApp. S \u00fa\u017easem, jsem z\u00edrala na displej telefonu, odkud na m\u011b p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e1 hlava v turbanu volala: \u201eHello my friend, how are you?\u201c Na koberci za n\u00edm se batolilo d\u00edt\u011b a vedle hr\u00e1la velk\u00e1 plazma. Bedu\u00ednsk\u00fd \u017eivot jsem m\u011bla p\u0159\u00edmo online. Bedu\u00edni maj\u00ed na svou pou\u0161\u0165 monopol. Bydlet m\u016f\u017eete jen u nich v kempech a nesm\u00edte se tu proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt sv\u00fdm autem. Stejn\u011b byste zapadli.<\/span><\/p>\n

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V rozlehl\u00e9 Arabsk\u00e9 pou\u0161ti na jihu Jord\u00e1nska<\/strong> se nach\u00e1z\u00ed jeden z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch skvost\u016f, jak\u00fd zdej\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edroda vytvo\u0159ila. Rezervace Wadi Rum<\/strong>, v p\u0159ekladu M\u011bs\u00ed\u010dn\u00ed \u00fadol\u00ed.<\/strong> Mezi dunami rud\u00e9ho p\u00edsku vystupuj\u00ed sk\u00e1ly, kter\u00e9 voda a v\u00edtr za tis\u00edce let vymodelovaly do okouzluj\u00edc\u00edch tvar\u016f a barev. Slavn\u00fd Lawrence z Ar\u00e1bie se tu zastavil dokonce \u0161estkr\u00e1t.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Wad\u00ed Rum<\/strong> nen\u00ed pou\u0161t\u00ed bez \u017eivota. V d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch jej ob\u00fdvali nom\u00e1d\u0161t\u00ed Thamudejci, kte\u0159\u00ed po sob\u011b zanechali nespo\u010det kreseb a rytin. Byli vytla\u010deni Nabatejci, obchodn\u00edky doprov\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed karavany po Kadidlov\u00e9 stezce a staviteli starov\u011bk\u00e9 Petry. <\/span><\/p>\n

V dne\u0161n\u00ed dob\u011b na 700 km\u00b2 \u017eije okolo 5000 bedu\u00edn\u016f z kmene Zalabia<\/strong>. Bydl\u00ed ve shluc\u00edch stan\u016f nebo v kamenn\u00fdch domech ve vesnici Rum<\/strong> a poj\u00ed je siln\u00e9 rodinn\u00e9 svazky. Dnes je \u017eiv\u00ed turismus. N\u00e1dhernou pou\u0161\u0165 si m\u016f\u017eete vychutnat j\u00edzdou d\u017e\u00edpem b\u011bhem celodenn\u00edho v\u00fdletu, kdo m\u00e1 v\u00edce \u010dasu i ze h\u0159betu velblouda.<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Kemp Wadi Rum Sky u sk\u00e1ly Um Sabattah<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Kemp Wadi Rum Sky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Kemp <\/span>WADI RUM SKY TOURS & CAMP <\/a> (tel.\/WhatsApp Sulieman Mohamed Al-Blui <\/span>00962779962155), facebook<\/a>, <\/span>se nach\u00e1z\u00ed asi 9 km od Rumu<\/strong> vedle impozantn\u00ed sk\u00e1ly Um Sabattah, odkud jsou vid\u011bt nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch z\u00e1pady slunce. Stany jsou vybaveny postelemi s pohodln\u00fdmi matracemi a tepl\u00fdmi dekami, zdej\u0161\u00ed noci jsou velmi chladn\u00e9. M\u00e1me tu tak\u00e9 z\u00e1suvky evropsk\u00e9ho typu. Elekt\u0159ina se z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 sol\u00e1rn\u00edmi panely a funguje v\u017edy po setm\u011bn\u00ed. P\u0159ekvapuj\u00ed m\u011b \u010dist\u00e9 toalety a sprchy, kde voda te\u010de po cel\u00fd den. Na mal\u00e9 v\u00fdjimky. Ve velk\u00e9m spole\u010densk\u00e9m stanu se r\u00e1no i ve\u010der pod\u00e1v\u00e1 j\u00eddlo formou bufetu, p\u0159es den tu m\u016f\u017eete u \u0161\u00e1lku vo\u0148av\u00e9ho \u010daje relaxovat nebo si pov\u00eddat s bedu\u00edny.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Stany v kempu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Uvnit\u0159 stanu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Je mi tu dob\u0159e. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 schody, \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 p\u0159ek\u00e1\u017eky, m\u016f\u017eu si tu svobodn\u011b pob\u00edhat bez obav, \u017ee o n\u011bco zakopnu. A kdy\u017e spadnu, tak do m\u011bkk\u00e9ho p\u00edsku. Nebesa n\u00e1s p\u0159ed setm\u011bn\u00edm obda\u0159\u00ed t\u00edm nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm z\u00e1padem slunce, jak\u00fd jsem kdy vid\u011bla.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Fantastick\u00fd z\u00e1pad slunce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Okol\u00ed kempu Sky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Z\u00e1\u017eitkem je bedu\u00ednsk\u00e1 ve\u010de\u0159e. V hlubok\u00e9 j\u00e1m\u011b se n\u011bkolik hodin pe\u010de ku\u0159e s hromadou zeleniny, brambory a r\u00fd\u017ee. Stoluje se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b po arabsky, tedy na zemi. J\u00eddlo je vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed, v\u0161ichni se stra\u0161n\u011b nacpeme. N\u00e1sleduje hudebn\u00ed ve\u010der, o kter\u00e9m jsem si myslela, \u017ee bude k\u00fd\u010d. Nebyl. Rozvalen\u00ed na pol\u0161t\u00e1\u0159\u00edch poslouch\u00e1me podmanivou arabskou hudbu a zp\u011bv bedu\u00edna se slavi\u010d\u00edm hlasem. Karel Gott by mu z\u00e1vid\u011bl. Fantastickou atmosf\u00e9ru orientu podtrhuj\u00ed tis\u00edce rozz\u00e1\u0159en\u00fdch hv\u011bzd nad Wadi Rum.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Jedeme na v\u00fdlet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Wadi Rum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Jedeme na celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet. <\/span>S Mahm\u00fadem, kter\u00fd n\u00e1s v\u010dera okouzlil sv\u00fdm zp\u011bvem. M\u00e1 zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 historky ze \u017eivota. Kombinace zvoniv\u00e9ho hl\u00e1sku, zdvo\u0159ilosti a mil\u00e9ho \u00fasm\u011bvu je jist\u011b velmi atraktivn\u00ed pro osam\u011bl\u00e9 turistky. A tak jednoho dne potkal cestovatelku z Venezuely. Amor\u016fv \u0161\u00edp zas\u00e1hl oba tak siln\u011b, \u017ee rozum \u0161el stranou. Brzy nato svou velkou l\u00e1sku nebeskou posv\u011btili svatbou. Venezuelanka za\u010dala \u017e\u00edt ve Wadi Rum. A te\u010f trochu reality. \u017deny z Venezuely jsou vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 nejen svou kr\u00e1sou, ale i plastikami. Prsou, rt\u016f, odoperov\u00e1n\u00edm \u017eeber kv\u016fli \u0161t\u00edhl\u00e9mu pasu. Mahm\u00fad tohle v\u0161e zabalil do \u010d\u00e1doru a zav\u0159el do kuchyn\u011b. Zdej\u0161\u00ed \u017eeny toti\u017e t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nepotk\u00e1te. Doma va\u0159\u00ed, rod\u00ed d\u011bti a vyr\u00e1b\u011bj\u00ed \u0161perky pro turisty. Za p\u00e1r m\u011bs\u00edc\u016f se konal rozvod a Venezuelanka je zp\u011bt v Ji\u017en\u00ed Americe. Mahm\u00fad ale nezah\u00e1l\u00ed. D\u00edky sv\u00fdm kamar\u00e1dk\u00e1m ji\u017e nav\u0161t\u00edvil \u0160v\u00fdcarsko, Belgii a Francii.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Na\u0161e parta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Nat\u00e1\u010d\u00edme<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Oproti nudn\u00e9 Aqab\u011b je nat\u00e1\u010den\u00ed v pou\u0161ti z\u00e1bava. Na korb\u011b d\u017e\u00edpu v pozad\u00ed s neoby\u010dejnou krajinou, vypr\u00e1v\u00edm o sv\u00e9m \u017eivot\u011b, slabozrakosti a cestov\u00e1n\u00ed. Mezi rud\u00fdmi dunami vystupuj\u00ed p\u00edskovcov\u00e9 sk\u00e1ly bizarn\u00edch tvar\u016f. Mezi nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1dhern\u00fd skaln\u00ed most Jebel Burda<\/strong> a men\u0161\u00ed Jebel Umm Fruth<\/strong>. P\u0159i dobr\u00e9 kondici se na n\u011b d\u00e1 vy\u0161plhat. To rad\u011bji nezkou\u0161\u00edm.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 skaln\u00ed \u00fatvary<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Skaln\u00ed most Jebel Umm Fruth<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Majest\u00e1tn\u00ed sk\u00e1la Sedm pil\u00ed\u0159\u016f moudrosti<\/strong> je pojmenovan\u00e1 podle stejnojmenn\u00e9 knihy britsk\u00e9ho diplomata a cestovatele T. E. Lawrence, zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho pod ozna\u010den\u00edm Lawrence z Ar\u00e1bie<\/strong>.  Wadi Rum je s n\u00edm \u00fazce spojen. I kdy\u017e nem\u011bl \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 vojensk\u00e9 zku\u0161enosti, vedl v prvn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce arabsk\u00e9 povst\u00e1n\u00ed proti Osman\u016fm a byl mezi zdej\u0161\u00edmi bedu\u00edny velmi obl\u00edben.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Velbloudi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Velbloudi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zastav\u00edme u potuluj\u00edc\u00edho se st\u00e1da velbloud\u016f s b\u00edl\u00fdmi velblou\u010f\u00e1tky a krm\u00edme je pamlsky. Zubat\u00e9 velbloudici se ale l\u00edb\u00ed moje kabelka. S chut\u00ed se do n\u00ed zakousne a zu\u0159iv\u011b o ni bojujeme. Vyhr\u00e1v\u00e1m. Kus mikrofonu ov\u0161em kon\u010d\u00ed v jej\u00edm \u017ealudku. Zaj\u00edmalo by m\u011b, co pak zvuka\u0159 Michal sly\u0161el na sv\u00fdch nahr\u00e1vk\u00e1ch.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Mahm\u00fad v akci<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
P\u0159\u00edprava \u0161alv\u011bjov\u00e9ho \u010daje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Zastav\u00edme uprost\u0159ed pou\u0161t\u011b a Mahm\u00fad n\u00e1m d\u00e1v\u00e1 rozchod. I kdy\u017e slunce nemilosrdn\u011b p\u00e1l\u00ed, p\u011bkn\u011b si to tu prozkoum\u00e1me. Mahm\u00fad n\u00e1m zat\u00edm ve st\u00ednu skaln\u00edho p\u0159evisu p\u0159ipravuje luxusn\u00ed ob\u011bd a \u0161alv\u011bjov\u00fd \u010daj. Jen tak na mal\u00e9m oh\u00fdnku. Co se t\u00fdk\u00e1 j\u00eddla, v kempech je o sv\u00e9 turisty skv\u011ble postar\u00e1no. Od r\u00e1na do ve\u010dera m\u00e1me pln\u00e1 b\u0159icha a pneumatiky okolo pasu p\u0159ib\u00fdvaj\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Sout\u011bska<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Starod\u00e1vn\u00e9 rytiny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Te\u010f v b\u0159eznu je turistick\u00e1 sez\u00f3na, ale d\u017e\u00edp\u016f s n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky potk\u00e1v\u00e1me jen p\u00e1r. Nejv\u00edce u skaln\u00ed pr\u016frvy Siq al-Khazali<\/strong> poset\u00e9 rytinami lid\u00ed a zv\u00ed\u0159at. Jsme tu sv\u011bdky jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 svatby v modern\u00edm stylu. Nev\u011bsta v b\u00edl\u00fdch \u0161atech m\u011b fascinuje. Dikt\u00e1torsky komanduje sv\u00e9ho nast\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00edho, aby nekazil fotografie. P\u00f3zov\u00e1n\u00ed pokra\u010duje na vrcholu nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed sk\u00e1ly v okol\u00ed. Jako byste ve svatebn\u00edm vylezli na vrcholky skal v \u010cesk\u00e9m r\u00e1ji.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
R\u00e1zn\u00e1 nev\u011bsta komanduje sv\u00e9ho \u017eenicha<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed svatby na vysok\u00fdch skal\u00e1ch<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

.<\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u011bjak\u00fd bedu\u00edn v d\u017e\u00edpu se mnou \u017eertuje, zda si nechci za\u0159\u00eddit. Dost\u00e1v\u00e1m n\u00e1pad!<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201eMahm\u00fade, j\u00e1 jsem p\u0159ed oslepnut\u00edm byla v\u00e1\u0161nivou \u0159idi\u010dkou. 60 000 kilometr\u016f za rok a p\u016fl jsem najezdila. Mahn\u00fade, p\u016fj\u010d mi pros\u00edm d\u017e\u00edp, tady ho nem\u00e1m kde nabourat.\u201c To, \u017ee jsem jezdila v mal\u00e9m Tipu a je\u0161t\u011b men\u0161\u00edm Cliu si nech\u00e1v\u00e1m pro sebe.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Chyst\u00e1m se pr\u00e1v\u011b p\u0159emluvit Mahn\u00fada , aby mi p\u016fj\u010dil sv\u016fj d\u017e\u00edp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
A Mahm\u00fad s \u00fasm\u011bvem souhlas\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u0160t\u00e1b zbyst\u0159\u00ed. Jana c\u00edt\u00ed skv\u011bl\u00fd filmov\u00fd materi\u00e1l. Zvuka\u0159 Michal a kameraman Jarom\u00edr si mysl\u00ed, \u017ee si d\u011bl\u00e1m srandu. Budou toti\u017e muset sed\u011bt na korb\u011b. J\u00e1 si ale srandu ned\u011bl\u00e1m.<\/span><\/p>\n

Co na to Mahm\u00fad? S \u00fasm\u011bvem od ucha k uchu: \u201eOk, no problem Zuzana!\u201c<\/span><\/p>\n

Tak jedeme! Po deseti letech si to svi\u0161t\u00edm v d\u017e\u00edpu 4×4 mezi p\u00edse\u010dn\u00fdmi dunami. Jako Niki Lauda, i kdy\u017e m\u00e1m nohy zamotan\u00e9 do kabel\u016f vis\u00edc\u00edch zpoza volantu. Vysazuji \u0161t\u00e1b a oni nat\u00e1\u010d\u00ed mou j\u00edzdu a couv\u00e1n\u00ed z d\u00e1lky. \u0158idi\u010di d\u017e\u00edp\u016f v protism\u011bru se sm\u011bj\u00ed a m\u00e1vaj\u00ed. Par\u00e1dn\u00ed j\u00edzdu kon\u010d\u00edm v kempu. Ne mezi stany, ale na parkovi\u0161ti.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Jedeme!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Jedu!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Nejhor\u0161\u00ed na m\u00e9 slabozrakosti bylo pr\u00e1v\u011b to, \u017ee jsem u\u017e nemohla \u0159\u00eddit auto. Te\u010f jsem si splnila sen. V\u00e1\u0161niv\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm mu\u017ei, to ur\u010dit\u011b ch\u00e1pou. V t\u00e1bo\u0159e se o ni\u010dem jin\u00e9m nemluv\u00ed. Jen polsk\u00fd cestovatel si st\u011b\u017euje, \u017ee jemu nikdo d\u017e\u00edp p\u016fj\u010dit necht\u011bl.  A zvuka\u0159 Michal m\u011b pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed, \u017ee pr\u00fd to m\u00e1m po\u0159\u00e1d v ruce.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Rann\u00ed j\u00edzda do Rumu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Lou\u010den\u00ed se Suliemanem a Mahm\u00fadem v Rumu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na p\u0159\u00e1n\u00ed re\u017eis\u00e9rky Jany mi Mahm\u00fad p\u0159i rann\u00edm odjezdu do Rumu znovu p\u016fj\u010d\u00ed d\u017e\u00edp. Trochu sice zapadnu do z\u00e1v\u011bj\u00ed p\u00edsku, on ale zku\u0161en\u011b odpust\u00ed kola a jedeme d\u00e1l.  M\u00e1 nasp\u011bch. P\u0159ijede nov\u00e1 v\u00e1rka turist\u016f. A turistek. Mo\u017en\u00e1 se zase pod\u00edv\u00e1 do sv\u011bta.<\/span><\/p>\n

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N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Wadi Rum nen\u00ed levn\u00e1. Dv\u011b noci s j\u00eddlem a celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet d\u017e\u00edpem st\u00e1l 2700 K\u010d (90 JOD) za osobu. Ale n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 krajina, pobyt mezi bedu\u00edny, klid a divok\u00e9 z\u00e1pady slunce, to v\u0161e svou \u010darovnou atmosf\u00e9rou uchv\u00e1t\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho cestovatele. Wadi Rum si va\u0161i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu zaslou\u017e\u00ed, nejsou to vyhozen\u00e9 pen\u00edze.<\/span><\/strong><\/div><\/div>\n

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Jedeme do Petry!<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\nP\u0158EDCHOZ\u00cd SEVERN\u00cd JORD\u00c1NSKO<\/span><\/a>                                                     POKRA\u010cOV\u00c1N\u00cd STAROV\u011aK\u00c1 PETRA<\/span><\/a>                                                         <\/p>\n

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Sluncem zalit\u00e1 Aqaba, pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 Rud\u00e9 mo\u0159e a n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 kor\u00e1lov\u00e9 atoly v\u0161ude okolo. Jen o p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f d\u00e1l ve vnitrozem\u00ed sk\u00e1ly nejroztodivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch tvar\u016f a barev ve Wadi Rum, jedn\u00e9 z nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pou\u0161t\u00ed sv\u011bta. V\u017edy jsem tou\u017eila Jord\u00e1nsko nav\u0161t\u00edvit. V \u017eivot\u011b by m\u011b ale nenapadlo, \u017ee sem pojedu nat\u00e1\u010det film! <\/p>\n

<\/fb:like><\/div>
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