{"id":3585,"date":"2018-12-30T23:25:17","date_gmt":"2018-12-30T22:25:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=3585"},"modified":"2019-06-20T17:58:41","modified_gmt":"2019-06-20T16:58:41","slug":"severni-jordansko-1-cast-madaba-hora-nebo-mrtve-more-a-jerash","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/severni-jordansko-1-cast-madaba-hora-nebo-mrtve-more-a-jerash\/","title":{"rendered":"SEVERN\u00cd JORD\u00c1NSKO (1. \u010c\u00c1ST): MADABA, HORA NEBO, MRTV\u00c9 MO\u0158E & JERASH"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00dachvatn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy z posv\u00e1tn\u00e9 hory Nebo<\/strong>. Nevinn\u011b modr\u00e1 hladina Mrtv\u00e9ho mo\u0159e<\/strong>, kter\u00e9 v\u00e1s m\u016f\u017ee i zab\u00edt. Jerash<\/strong>, antick\u00e9 m\u011bsto tis\u00edc\u016f sloup\u016f, jen p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f od v\u00e1lkou zm\u00edtan\u00e9 S\u00fdrie. V\u017edy jsem tou\u017eila Jord\u00e1nsko<\/strong>, zemi biblick\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f, nav\u0161t\u00edvit. V \u017eivot\u011b by m\u011b ale nenapadlo, \u017ee sem pojedu to\u010dit film!<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

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JAK TO V\u0160E ZA\u010cALO?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Osudov\u00fdm setk\u00e1n\u00edm s charismatickou re\u017eis\u00e9rkou JANOU \u0160EV\u010c\u00cdKOVOU<\/a>. Pr\u00e1v\u011b nat\u00e1\u010d\u00ed dokument o \u017eivot\u011b nevidom\u00fdch, jeho\u017e sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jsem se stala. Cht\u011bla nato\u010dit, jak dok\u00e1\u017ei sama s b\u00edlou h\u016flkou cestovat po sv\u011bt\u011b. Navrhovala Slovensko nebo Rumunsko. Jen\u017ee sem bych si sama jen tak nevyjela, zdej\u0161\u00ed lid\u00e9 jsou na m\u016fj vkus m\u00e1lo kontaktn\u00ed. V\u011bd\u011bla jsem, \u017ee to mus\u00ed b\u00fdt jedin\u011b Bl\u00edzk\u00fd v\u00fdchod nebo Indie. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Jord\u00e1nsk\u00e1 vlajka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Spousta lid\u00ed okolo nezaj\u00edm\u00e1, jak zvl\u00e1dnu cestovat sama bez zraku, ale jak to je s pen\u011bzi.  Co mi kdo zaplat\u00ed a kolik za to dostanu. Tak\u017ee v\u00e1\u017een\u00ed, celou cestu jsem si financovala sama. Dokument\u00e1rn\u00ed film m\u00e1 velmi omezen\u00fd rozpo\u010det, v\u00edce \u00fa\u010dinkuj\u00edc\u00edch a bude se je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bjakou dobu nat\u00e1\u010det. Bylo tedy nutn\u00e9, aby cesta st\u00e1la pro v\u0161echny co nejm\u00e9n\u011b. I p\u0159es po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed obavy a ned\u016fv\u011bru k tomuto regionu jsem re\u017eis\u00e9rku Janu p\u0159emluvila a v b\u0159eznu 2018 vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme spolu s kameramanem Jarom\u00edrem a zvuka\u0159em Michalem na low cost (n\u00edzkon\u00e1kladovou) j\u00edzdu po Jord\u00e1nsku.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 ha\u0161imovsk\u00e9 kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed <\/strong><\/span>je monarchi\u00ed v \u010dele s popul\u00e1rn\u00edm<\/span> kr\u00e1lem Abdullahem II. <\/span><\/p>\n

Na rozloze 89 206 km\u00b2 \u017eije 10 mil. obyvatel, z toho t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 3 mil. uprchl\u00edk\u016f p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm z Palestiny. Obyvatelstvo tvo\u0159\u00ed nejen Arabov\u00e9, ale tak\u00e9 Arm\u00e9ni a k\u0159es\u0165an\u00e9. Hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem je Amm\u00e1n, plat\u00ed se jord\u00e1nsk\u00fdm din\u00e1rem a domluv\u00edte se bez probl\u00e9m\u016f anglicky<\/span> <\/div><\/div>\n

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Je\u0161t\u011b ned\u00e1vno se do Jord\u00e1nska cestovalo levn\u011b p\u0159es jihoizraelsk\u00fd Eilat. Letenka z Bratislavy nebo Polska vy\u0161la na \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 2000 K\u010d. Odtud je to do jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 Aqaby jen 30 km. Dnes v\u0161ak existuj\u00ed v\u00fdhodn\u00e9 lety z Prahy a okoln\u00edch leti\u0161\u0165 p\u0159\u00edmo do Amm\u00e1nu, nej\u010dast\u011bji s Ryanairem<\/strong>. P\u0159i hled\u00e1n\u00ed n\u00edzkon\u00e1kladov\u00fdch letenek po Evrop\u011b a Bl\u00edzk\u00e9m v\u00fdchod\u011b se mi nejl\u00e9pe osv\u011bd\u010dil Azair<\/a>, hlavn\u011b d\u00edky v\u00fdborn\u00fdm parametr\u016fm vyhled\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00e1 m\u00edsta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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My ale d\u00edky Janin\u00fdm kontakt\u016fm let\u00edme v\u00fdhodn\u011b z Prahy s rumunskou aerolinkou TAROM.<\/strong> Cesta za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 velmi dobrodru\u017en\u011b.  Zad\u00fdchan\u00fd kameraman se na leti\u0161ti objev\u00ed a\u017e po uzav\u0159en\u00ed check-inu. Tzn., \u017ee si ji\u017e nem\u016f\u017ee odbavit zavazadlo, kde m\u00e1 pot\u0159ebn\u00e9 v\u011bc\u00ed k nat\u00e1\u010den\u00ed.  V\u011bt\u0161ina spole\u010dnost\u00ed by se s n\u00e1mi v\u016fbec nebavila, je to prost\u011b na\u0161e chyba. Rumuni se v\u0161ak po srdceryvn\u00e9m p\u0159emlouv\u00e1n\u00ed smiluj\u00ed, Jarom\u00edra i p\u0159es p\u016flhodinov\u00e9 zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed odbav\u00ed a my st\u00e1le trochu ve stresu odl\u00e9t\u00e1me vst\u0159\u00edc nov\u00fdm dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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BUKURE\u0160T<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Pohoda v Bukure\u0161ti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Rumunska m\u00e1me 10hodinov\u00fd p\u0159estup. Ne\u017e sed\u011bt na leti\u0161ti, rad\u0161i vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na obhl\u00eddku m\u011bsta. Pe\u010dliv\u011b jsem ji napl\u00e1novala. Proch\u00e1zku okolo Pal\u00e1ce Parlamentu, b\u00fdval\u00e9ho Ceausescova s\u00eddla, historickou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed m\u011bsta a posezen\u00ed na n\u011bkter\u00e9 z venkovn\u00edch zahr\u00e1dek u k\u00e1vy a v\u00edna. J\u00e1 v hezk\u00e9 suk\u00fdnce, a\u0165 mi to p\u0159ed kamerou slu\u0161\u00ed. Moc jsem se t\u011b\u0161ila. N\u011bjak mi ale nedo\u0161lo, \u017ee je za\u010d\u00e1tek b\u0159ezna. Kdy\u017e doraz\u00edme po \u00famorn\u00e9 hodinov\u00e9 j\u00edzd\u011b p\u0159epln\u011bn\u00fdm autobusem do centra, je u\u017e d\u00e1vno tma. A j\u00e1 v\u016fbec nic nevid\u00edm. Leje jako z konve, i v tepl\u00fdch bund\u00e1ch je v\u0161em zima. Po dlouh\u00e9m hled\u00e1n\u00ed zapadneme zcela promo\u010den\u00ed do zakou\u0159en\u00e9 hospody. Tak tohle moc nevy\u0161lo. Ale k\u00e1vu a m\u00edstn\u00ed v\u00edno tu maj\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00e9.<\/span><\/p>\n

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POHODOV\u00c1 MADABA<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Me\u0161ita v Madab\u011b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Do Amm\u00e1nu p\u0159il\u00e9t\u00e1me uprost\u0159ed noci. V\u0161em turist\u016fm doporu\u010duji zakoupen\u00ed  JORDAN PASSu<\/a>. Vy\u0159izuje se p\u0159edem, online a zahrnuje v\u00edzum, vstup do Petry a \u010dty\u0159iceti dal\u0161\u00edch pam\u00e1tek. Finan\u010dn\u011b i \u010dasov\u011b se vyplat\u00ed, zejm\u00e9na t\u011bm, co p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00ed z Izraele. Na izraelsko-jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9m p\u0159echodu Eilat\/Aqaba toti\u017e v\u00edzum na m\u00edst\u011b nedostanete (2018). <\/span><\/p>\n

P\u016fvodn\u00ed pl\u00e1n byl jet prvn\u00edm rann\u00edm minibusem, ale proto\u017ee jsme \u010dty\u0159i, taxi se vypl\u00e1c\u00ed. Za p\u016fl hodiny stoj\u00edme uprost\u0159ed lidupr\u00e1zdn\u00e9 Madaby<\/strong>. Opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 ulice vypadaj\u00ed stra\u0161ideln\u011b, hlavn\u011b d\u00edky v\u0159\u00edskotu toulav\u00fdch ko\u010dek. Po dlouh\u00e9m hled\u00e1n\u00ed najdeme n\u00e1\u0161 hotel jm\u00e9nem, jak jinak, ne\u017e MADABA<\/a>. Rozespal\u00fd chlap\u00edk na n\u00e1s nech\u00e1pav\u011b z\u00edr\u00e1. Jsou \u010dty\u0159i r\u00e1no a na\u0161e pokoje budou k dispozici a\u017e po jeden\u00e1ct\u00e9. P\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fd majitel S\u00e1mer n\u00e1s v\u0161ak hned zve do ob\u00fdvac\u00edho pokoje, pohost\u00ed v\u00fdborn\u00fdm \u0161alv\u011bjov\u00fdm \u010dajem a lehkou sn\u00eddani. B\u011bhem chvilky v\u0161ichni tvrd\u011b us\u00edn\u00e1me na pohodln\u00fdch pohovk\u00e1ch.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kostel Sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed s Madabskou mapou<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Me\u0161ita po setm\u011bn\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Odpoledne si do v\u00fdst\u0159ihu ukr\u00fdv\u00e1m nen\u00e1padn\u00fd mikrofon a s kamerou v pat\u00e1ch vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edm do centra. M\u011bsto se silnou k\u0159es\u0165anskou men\u0161inou turist\u00e9 nav\u0161t\u011bvuj\u00ed jen kr\u00e1tce, a to p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm kv\u016fli slavn\u00e9 Madabsk\u00e9 map\u011b<\/strong>. Podlahov\u00e1 mozaika z 6. stol., zachycuj\u00edc\u00ed Svatou zemi a Jeruzal\u00e9m, se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v kostele Sv. Ji\u0159\u00ed<\/strong>, p\u0159\u00edmo naproti na\u0161eho hotelu. B\u00edl\u00e9 domy mi trochu p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dka v ji\u017en\u00edm \u0160pan\u011blsku, hust\u00fd provoz mi ale jasn\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1 najevo, \u017ee jsem na Bl\u00edzk\u00e9m v\u00fdchod\u011b. Spletit\u00e9 uli\u010dky jsou pln\u00e9 obch\u016fdk\u016f se v\u0161\u00edm mo\u017en\u00fdm. Oproti jin\u00fdm \u010d\u00e1stem zem\u011b jsou ceny polovi\u010dn\u00ed, prvn\u00ed den si v\u0161ichni nakupujeme spoustu d\u00e1rk\u016f. Upov\u00eddan\u00fd Arab se m\u016f\u017ee p\u0159etrhnout, zejm\u00e9na kdy\u017e ho nalad\u00edm, \u017ee jeho obchod bude slavn\u00fd. Bude toti\u017e ve filmu! \ud83d\ude00  Po m\u011bst\u011b chod\u00edm sama, \u0161t\u00e1b se sna\u017e\u00ed b\u00fdt nen\u00e1padn\u00fd kdesi daleko za mnou. Kdy\u017e se v\u0161ak setm\u00ed, zakop\u00e1v\u00e1m o ka\u017ed\u00fd schod, ka\u017edou nerovnost. Hodn\u00fd obchodn\u00edk z prot\u011bj\u0161\u00edch suven\u00fdr\u016f okam\u017eit\u011b p\u0159ib\u00edh\u00e1 na pomoc a zve m\u011b na \u010daj. Vystudovan\u00fd archeolog si prodejem suven\u00fdr\u016f vyd\u011bl\u00e1 v\u00edce ne\u017e vykop\u00e1vkami. V porovn\u00e1n\u00ed s \u00cdr\u00e1nem nen\u00ed Jord\u00e1nsko v\u016fbec levn\u00e9. Je v\u0161ak velmi drah\u00e9 pro \u017eivot m\u00edstn\u00edch. Dlouho do noci si pov\u00edd\u00e1me o \u017eivot\u011b, politice a konfliktech v okoln\u00edch st\u00e1tech. A \u0161t\u00e1b pod rou\u0161kou tmy toto vl\u00eddn\u00e9 setk\u00e1n\u00ed spokojen\u011b nat\u00e1\u010d\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

Na proslun\u011bn\u00e9 terase si vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me par\u00e1dn\u00ed sn\u00eddani, sam\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed dobroty. Hotel Madaba<\/a> pat\u0159\u00ed na bookingu<\/a> mezi ty nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. V\u017edy objedn\u00e1v\u00e1m nejlevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. A v\u017edy jsem byla spokojen\u00e1. A tak je tomu i zde. Pr\u00e1v\u011b d\u00edky p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e9 atmosf\u00e9\u0159e hotelu s fantastickou terasou a n\u00edzk\u00fdm cen\u00e1m je pro n\u00e1s m\u011bsto Madaba<\/strong> naprosto pohodov\u00e9 m\u00edsto.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Doj\u00edme a s upov\u00eddan\u00fdm \u0159idi\u010dem Ahmedem jedeme na v\u00fdlet. <\/span><\/p>\n

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HORA NEBO<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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V\u00fdhled z hory Nebo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Posv\u00e1tn\u00e1 hora Nebo<\/strong> se nach\u00e1z\u00ed jen p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f severn\u011b od Madaby<\/strong>. Pr\u00e1v\u011b sem p\u0159ivedl  Moj\u017e\u00ed\u0161 sv\u016fj lid p\u0159i \u00fat\u011bku z Egypta, poprv\u00e9 odtud spat\u0159il Izrael, Zemi zasl\u00edbenou a po sv\u00e9 smrti byl zde dle tradice poh\u0159ben. Na vrcholku stoj\u00ed kostel\u00edk s historick\u00fdmi mozaikami a velk\u00fd \u017eelezn\u00fd k\u0159\u00ed\u017e s hadem. V\u00fdhled na Palestinu, modrou hladinu Mrtv\u00e9ho mo\u0159e a Velkou p\u0159\u00edkopovou prol\u00e1klinu s \u0159ekou Jord\u00e1n je naprosto ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Kostel na ho\u0159e Nebo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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\u017delezn\u00fd k\u0159\u00ed\u017e na ho\u0159e Nebo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Turist\u00e9 se ale mystick\u00e9mu m\u00edstu moc nev\u011bnuj\u00ed. V\u0161ichni toti\u017e sv\u016fj zrak up\u00edraj\u00ed na n\u00e1s. Hlavn\u011b na zvuka\u0159e Michala s obrovsk\u00fdm magne\u0165\u00e1kem, kam se nahr\u00e1v\u00e1 zvuk, a mikrofonem na dlouh\u00e9 ty\u010di s ochranou \u0161t\u011btkou.  Kdy\u017e si p\u0159ed sluncem omot\u00e1 hlavu \u010derven\u00fdm \u0161\u00e1tkem, vypad\u00e1 trochu jako terorista. \u0158idi\u010d Ahmed si svou chvilku popularity u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 mezi sv\u00fdmi arabsk\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00e1teli. Za mnou dokonce p\u0159ib\u011bhne mlad\u00fd Kana\u010fan a pros\u00ed o fotku. Asi si mysl\u00ed, \u017ee jsem here\u010dka. \ud83d\ude00<\/span><\/p>\n

Hora Nebo ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu, hlavn\u011b pokud budete m\u00edt azurov\u00e9 nebe jako my.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder <\/strong><\/p>\n

MRTV\u00c9 MO\u0158E<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Mrtv\u00e9 mo\u0159e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Mezi Izraelem<\/strong> a Jord\u00e1nskem<\/strong> le\u017e\u00ed Mrtv\u00e9 mo\u0159e<\/strong>, nejn\u00ed\u017ee polo\u017een\u00e9 jezero sv\u011bta. P\u0159esn\u011b 420 metr\u016f pod hladinou sv\u011btov\u00fdch oce\u00e1n\u016f.  Mrtv\u00e9 proto, \u017ee pat\u0159\u00ed mezi nejslan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vodn\u00ed plochy, drsn\u00e9 prost\u0159ed\u00ed nep\u0159eje rostlin\u00e1m ani \u017eivo\u010dich\u016fm. Jeho slanost je 33,7 %<\/strong>, voda je skoro 10x slan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e v oce\u00e1nech. D\u00edky sv\u00fdm blahod\u00e1rn\u00fdm \u00fa\u010dink\u016fm p\u0159i l\u00e9\u010db\u011b alergi\u00ed, ekz\u00e9m\u016f a ko\u017en\u00edch nemoc\u00ed se t\u011b\u0161\u00ed zna\u010dn\u00e9 oblib\u011b mezi turisty. V obou st\u00e1tech je pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed poseto hotelov\u00fdmi komplexy s ve\u0161ker\u00fdm servisem, vstupn\u00e9 v\u0161ak nen\u00ed levn\u00e9.<\/span> <\/div><\/div>\n

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Majitel hotelu S\u00e1mer ale na\u0159izuje \u0159idi\u010di, a\u0165 n\u00e1s zaveze na pl\u00e1\u017e pro m\u00edstn\u00ed lidi. Ta vypad\u00e1 velmi zaj\u00edmav\u011b.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Pl\u00e1\u017e pro m\u00edstn\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Pl\u00e1\u017e pro m\u00edstn\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Strm\u00fd svah je zasyp\u00e1n lavinou ostr\u00fdch kamen\u016f, mezi nimi plastov\u00e9 odpadky a nedopalky od cigaret. Vodu lemuje pruh tmav\u00e9ho bahna. Jsme tu \u00fapln\u011b sami.  <\/span>Za\u010dne h\u00e1dka. Re\u017eis\u00e9rka Jana mi tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee to neslezu, \u017ee spadnu. Takhle m\u011b podce\u0148ovat, to teda ne! Zvl\u00e1dla jsem u\u017e mnohem hor\u0161\u00ed ter\u00e9n. Zvuka\u0159 s kameramanem n\u00e1s ml\u010dky pozoruj\u00ed. P\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00ed, jak se sv\u00fdm za\u0159\u00edzen\u00edm budou muset zdolat balvany. Ahmed se sice r\u00e1d p\u0159ed kamerou vystavuje, dol\u016f se mu ale moc nechce. Jen\u017ee mus\u00ed. V t\u011bch jeho fe\u0161\u00e1ck\u00fdch polobotk\u00e1ch mu to klou\u017ee jako na skluzavce. J\u00e1 ho ale uklid\u0148uji: \u201eNeboj, Ahmede, nespadne\u0161, pevn\u011b t\u011b dr\u017e\u00edm!\u201c S hr\u016fzou v o\u010d\u00edch se mi sv\u011b\u0159uje, \u017ee na turisty v\u017edy \u010dek\u00e1 v aut\u011b. Jsem pr\u00fd prvn\u00ed, koho doprov\u00e1z\u00ed. Z\u0159ejm\u011b i posledn\u00ed. \u201eAhmede, neboj, te\u010f bude\u0161 slavn\u00fd. Ka\u017ed\u00fd bude cht\u00edt jezdit jen s tebou a bude\u0161 m\u00edt hodn\u011b pen\u011bz!\u201c Kone\u010dn\u011b jsme u blankytn\u011b modr\u00e9 hladiny. A nast\u00e1v\u00e1 probl\u00e9m!<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
P\u0159ipraven\u00e1 do vody<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Je libo p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst si noviny na hladin\u011b Mrtv\u00e9ho mo\u0159e?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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P\u0159ed cestou m\u011b v\u0161ichni upozor\u0148ovali, \u017ee se mimo turistick\u00e9 komplexy m\u016f\u017eu koupat jen oble\u010den\u00e1. Jsem tedy v leg\u00edn\u00e1ch a triku. Ahmed mi ale tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee se tu nejen turistky, ale i m\u00edstn\u00ed \u017eeny koupou v bikin\u00e1ch. Jen\u017ee j\u00e1 m\u00e1m bikiny na pokoji. Nu co\u017e, do spodn\u00edho pr\u00e1dla bych se klidn\u011b svl\u00e9kla. Jen\u017ee v domn\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee se mi oble\u010den\u00ed v p\u0159esolen\u00e9 vod\u011b rozpadne, m\u00e1m na sob\u011b ty nejhor\u0161\u00ed bombar\u010f\u00e1ky a podprsenku, co jsem doma na\u0161la. \u017de m\u011b uvid\u00ed n\u011bjak\u00fd Arab, mi nevad\u00ed tolik jako kamera. A \u017ee to bude na pl\u00e1tn\u011b. To teda ne! \u0160t\u00e1b se opod\u00e1l pobaven\u011b sm\u011bje. Ahmed: \u201eBikiny!\u201c J\u00e1: \u201eNikdy!\u201c Po dlouh\u00e9m p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed to vzd\u00e1v\u00e1m. Zahod\u00edm oble\u010den\u00ed a pomalu vstupuji do hust\u00e9 vody, Jinak to toti\u017e nejde. Za chv\u00edli se spokojen\u011b pohupuji na hladin\u011b jako na leh\u00e1tku. D\u00edky hust\u00e9 vod\u011b nem\u00e1te \u0161anci se potopit. Dokonce si m\u016f\u017eu polo\u017een\u00e1 na hladin\u011b \u010d\u00edst noviny. Nic podobn\u00e9ho jsem v \u017eivot\u011b neza\u017eila. Kdy\u017e vylezu z vody, Ahmed na m\u011b u\u017e nedo\u010dkav\u011b \u010dek\u00e1 a v rukou n\u011bco \u017emoul\u00e1. Ne\u017e se vzpamatuji, opl\u00e1c\u00e1v\u00e1 m\u00e9 polonah\u00e9 t\u011blo tmav\u00fdm bahnem.  Si\u0159i\u010dit\u00e1 hmota obsahuje hodn\u011b stopov\u00fdch prvk\u016f a vyr\u00e1b\u00ed se z n\u011bj l\u00e9\u010div\u00e1 kosmetika. Kdy\u017e se po uschnut\u00ed z t\u011bla odstran\u00ed, poko\u017eka je d\u011btsky hladk\u00e1.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

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L\u00e1k\u00e1m do vody za neoby\u010dejn\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem i ostatn\u00ed, ale necht\u011bj\u00ed. Tak aspo\u0148 na Ahmeda vol\u00e1m, \u017ee plavu do prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed Palestiny. To ho op\u011bt siln\u011b znerv\u00f3zn\u00ed. V\u00ed, \u017ee jsem toho schopna a z\u0159ejm\u011b posp\u00edch\u00e1 za dal\u0161\u00edm k\u0161eftem. Tak si na z\u00e1v\u011br je\u0161t\u011b po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b loknu p\u0159esolen\u00e9 vody. Chutn\u00e1 ho\u0159ce, mozek toti\u017e nedok\u00e1\u017ee rozeznat tak siln\u011b slanou chu\u0165. Pokud v\u0161ak \u010dlov\u011bk vypije v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed mno\u017estv\u00ed, m\u016f\u017ee ho to i zab\u00edt. Zcela se naru\u0161\u00ed vnit\u0159n\u00ed prost\u0159ed\u00ed v t\u011ble. Je pot\u0159eba si tak\u00e9 d\u00e1vat pozor na o\u010di a nechodit do vody zran\u011bn\u00ed a s od\u011brkami, budou v\u00e1s stra\u0161n\u011b p\u00e1lit.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

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Nakonec jsme v\u0161ichni v\u00fdletem k Mrtv\u00e9mu mo\u0159i spokojeni. J\u00e1 jsem si splnila dal\u0161\u00ed sen, \u0161t\u00e1b nato\u010dil vcelku zaj\u00edmav\u00fd materi\u00e1l a Ahmed si popl\u00e1cal polonahou \u017eenskou. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu Mrtv\u00e9ho mo\u0159e v\u0161em v\u0159ele doporu\u010duji, a to co nejd\u0159\u00edve. Velmi rychle toti\u017e vysych\u00e1.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Madaba<\/strong> se mi l\u00edbila svou pohodovou atmosf\u00e9rou. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00ed otravn\u00ed prodejci, suven\u00fdry za p\u0159\u00edzniv\u00e9 ceny, p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00ed lid\u00e9. Pod\u00edl na tom m\u00e1 i hotel MADABA<\/a>  s p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdm person\u00e1lem, za mne snad nejp\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed na na\u0161\u00ed cest\u011b Jord\u00e1nskem.<\/span><\/p>\n

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JERASH<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edda Cargo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Minibusem p\u0159ej\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Amm\u00e1nu na severn\u00ed autobusov\u00e9 n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Tabarbour,<\/strong> kde p\u0159emluv\u00edme person\u00e1l spole\u010dnosti JETT<\/a>  k uschov\u00e1n\u00ed zavazadel. Mimochodem JETT<\/a> je jord\u00e1nsk\u00e1 dopravn\u00ed spole\u010dnost, kter\u00e1 jezd\u00ed mezi m\u011bsty d\u00e1lkov\u00fdmi autobusy, Odh\u00e1n\u00edm dot\u011brn\u00e9 taxik\u00e1\u0159e a za chv\u00edli pokra\u010dujeme dal\u0161\u00edm minibusem na sever do m\u011bsta Jerash (D\u017eera\u0161)<\/strong>. <\/span><\/p>\n

Zelen\u00e9 kopce a krajina pln\u00e1 olivovn\u00edk\u016f je zcela odli\u0161n\u00e1 od vyprahl\u00e9ho jihu. K syrsk\u00fdm hranic\u00edm je to pouh\u00fdch 50 km. Jde ale o oblast ovl\u00e1danou Assadem, zde se nev\u00e1l\u010d\u00ed. Pr\u00e1v\u011b d\u00edky spor\u016fm v okoln\u00edch st\u00e1tech jako je S\u00fdrie, Saudsk\u00e1 Ar\u00e1bie, Ir\u00e1k, Izrael versus Palestina, ubylo v posledn\u00edch letech Jord\u00e1nsku mnoho turist\u016f. Pomalu se ale do zem\u011b vracej\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Jerash<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

je starov\u011bk\u00e9 m\u011bsto, d\u0159\u00edve zn\u00e1m\u00e9 jako Gerasa<\/strong>, zalo\u017een\u00e9 na po\u010d\u00e1tku tis\u00edcilet\u00ed. \u0158\u00edk\u00e1 se mu Jord\u00e1nsk\u00e9 Pompeje<\/strong> nebo tak\u00e9 M\u011bsto tis\u00edc\u016f sloup\u016f<\/strong>. Historick\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st je slavn\u00e1 sv\u00fdmi z\u0159\u00edceninami \u0159ecko-\u0159\u00edmsk\u00fdch pam\u00e1tek. V dob\u00e1ch nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy se zde obchodovalo s kadidlem a ko\u0159en\u00edm z Arabsk\u00e9ho poloostrova. Dnes se m\u011bsto naz\u00fdv\u00e1 Jerash <\/strong>a je po Pet\u0159e druhou nejnav\u0161t\u011bvovan\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tkou Jord\u00e1nska.  Modern\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st je nezaj\u00edmav\u00e1, v\u0161ichni n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci m\u00ed\u0159\u00ed do t\u00e9 historick\u00e9.<\/span> <\/div><\/div>\n

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Proto\u017ee je p\u00e1tek, v muslimsk\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b ned\u011ble, jezd\u00ed autobusy omezen\u011b. \u0158idi\u010d n\u00e1m na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed porad\u00ed, kdy jede posledn\u00ed zp\u011bt do Amm\u00e1nu. K pokladn\u011b mus\u00edme proj\u00edt bazarem se suven\u00fdry. Maj\u00ed to tu chyt\u0159e vymy\u0161len\u00e9, ka\u017ed\u00fd turista se u n\u011bjak\u00e9ho st\u00e1nku zastav\u00ed. A kdy\u017e ne, obchodn\u00edci si jej stejn\u011b odchyt\u00ed. Vstupn\u00e9 do historick\u00e9ho are\u00e1lu je okolo 300 K\u010d, Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nic neplat\u00edme, n\u00e1\u0161 JORDAN PASS<\/a> zahrnuje i vstupn\u00e9 do Jerashe<\/strong>. Proch\u00e1z\u00edm se sama, \u0161t\u00e1b nen\u00e1padn\u011b za mnou nat\u00e1\u010d\u00ed, jak zvl\u00e1d\u00e1m ter\u00e9n pln\u00fd schod\u016f, kamen\u016f a nerovnost\u00ed. Zas tak nen\u00e1padn\u00ed ale nejsme. V\u0161ichni po mn\u011b a hlavn\u011b zvuka\u0159i s dlouhou ty\u010d\u00ed pokukuj\u00ed. Pak si n\u00e1s v\u0161imne skupinka znud\u011bn\u00fdch policist\u016f. Zprvu p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b, po chvilce ale s d\u011btskou zv\u011bdavost\u00ed zji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed, kdo jsme, co a pro\u010d tu nat\u00e1\u010d\u00edme. A tak jim vypr\u00e1v\u00edm sv\u016fj p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh, pro\u010d cestuji a jak chci \u010cech\u016fm uk\u00e1zat jejich kr\u00e1snou zemi. To je pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed, kamar\u00e1dsky se lou\u010d\u00edme a m\u016f\u017eeme si nat\u00e1\u010det, co chceme.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Jerash<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Jerash<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Ohromnou vstupn\u00ed branou vplujeme do starov\u011bk\u00e9ho m\u011bsta. Hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edda Cargo, kdysi kyp\u00edc\u00ed \u017eivotem, lemuje n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 sloupo\u0159ad\u00ed. V\u0161ude okolo na m\u011b d\u00fdch\u00e1 historie. A taky spousta mlad\u00edk\u016f. M\u00edstn\u00ed pr\u016fvodci, kte\u0159\u00ed za sv\u00e9 slu\u017eby po\u017eaduj\u00ed v tomto k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b nek\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 pen\u00edze. \u201eHele ho\u0161i, nejsem bohat\u00e1 Ameri\u010danka, ale chud\u00e1 \u010ce\u0161ka.\u201c Je\u0161t\u011b mi zkou\u0161\u00ed nab\u00eddnout odborn\u00fd doprovod na konec promen\u00e1dy. Sto metr\u016f za 300 K\u010d. Dnes nemaj\u00ed \u0161\u0165astn\u00fd den. Zahrani\u010dn\u00edch turist\u016f tu moc nen\u00ed. M\u00edstn\u00edch ale spousty. Hrd\u00ed otcov\u00e9 s pok\u0159ikuj\u00edc\u00edmi d\u011btmi, za nimi unaven\u00e9 matky t\u00e1hnouc\u00ed ko\u010d\u00e1rky po nerovn\u00e9 cest\u011b. Ter\u00e9n je pro m\u00e9 o\u010di nam\u00e1hav\u00fd, nakonec ale dojdu k mal\u00e9mu severn\u00edmu amfite\u00e1tru, pak p\u0159es kopec a jsem u velk\u00e9ho ji\u017en\u00edho divadla.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Jerash<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Jerash<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Okam\u017eit\u011b se na m\u011b vrh\u00e1 skupinka bedu\u00edn\u016f. Posad\u00ed m\u011b mezi sebe do st\u00ednu, pohost\u00ed p\u0159eslazen\u00fdm \u010dajem a ten s nejm\u00e9n\u011b zuby m\u011b vyvede bo\u010dn\u00ed cestou do nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edch pater amfite\u00e1tru. M\u00e1m odtud kr\u00e1sn\u00fd v\u00fdhled na pr\u00e1v\u011b se konaj\u00edc\u00ed hudebn\u00ed p\u0159edstaven\u00ed. Bedu\u00edn si pak samoz\u0159ejm\u011b \u0159ekne o n\u011bjak\u00fd ten din\u00e1r. P\u00e1r jich dostane, moc nad\u0161en\u00fd ale nen\u00ed. Po\u010d\u00edtal aspo\u0148 se 300 korunami. Holt, nejsem z Ameriky.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a>
Ji\u017en\u00ed amfitheatr<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ji\u017en\u00ed divadlo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Milovn\u00edci antick\u00fdch pam\u00e1tek budou z Jerashe<\/strong> nad\u0161en\u00ed. Mn\u011b se dokonce l\u00edbil v\u00edce ne\u017e persk\u00e1 Persepolis. Chyb\u011bl mi zde v\u0161ak pohodov\u00fd kontakt s m\u00edstn\u00edmi lidmi, na m\u016fj vkus zde bylo p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f a nah\u00e1n\u011b\u010d\u016f. Tak u\u017e to ale na turistick\u00fdch m\u00edstech b\u00fdv\u00e1. A bude.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_3_placeholder\n

\u010cek\u00e1me na autobus do Amm\u00e1nu, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m poradil \u0159idi\u010d minibusu. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00fd nep\u0159ijel. A pr\u00fd u\u017e ani nep\u0159ijede. A tak n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu jord\u00e1nsk\u00fdch Pompej\u00ed zakon\u010d\u00edme drah\u00fdm kebabem v m\u00edstn\u00ed restauraci a do Amm\u00e1nu se vrac\u00edme levn\u00fdm tax\u00edkem. Na n\u00e1dra\u017e\u00ed Tarabodour<\/strong> vyzvedneme krosny a pohodln\u00fdm JETT<\/a> autobusem m\u00ed\u0159\u00edme na sam\u00fd jih zem\u011b. K Rud\u00e9mu mo\u0159i.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\nPOKRA\u010cOV\u00c1N\u00cd AQABA A WADI RUM<\/span><\/a>\n

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\u00dachvatn\u00e9 v\u00fdhledy z posv\u00e1tn\u00e9 hory Nebo. Nevinn\u011b modr\u00e1 hladina Mrtv\u00e9ho mo\u0159e, kter\u00e9 v\u00e1s m\u016f\u017ee i zab\u00edt. Jerash, antick\u00e9 m\u011bsto tis\u00edc\u016f sloup\u016f, jen p\u00e1r kilometr\u016f od v\u00e1lkou zm\u00edtan\u00e9 S\u00fdrie. V\u017edy jsem tou\u017eila Jord\u00e1nsko, zemi biblick\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f, nav\u0161t\u00edvit. V \u017eivot\u011b by m\u011b ale nenapadlo, \u017ee sem pojedu to\u010dit film!<\/p>\n

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