{"id":2264,"date":"2018-09-29T21:42:45","date_gmt":"2018-09-29T20:42:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=2264"},"modified":"2019-05-02T21:01:33","modified_gmt":"2019-05-02T20:01:33","slug":"kerala-1-cast-zastavka-v-dilli-a-agre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/kerala-1-cast-zastavka-v-dilli-a-agre\/","title":{"rendered":"CESTA DO KERALY (1. \u010c\u00c1ST): KULTURN\u00cd FACKA V DILL\u00cd & SKVOSTN\u00dd TAJ MAHAL"},"content":{"rendered":"

Takovou kulturn\u00ed facku, jako p\u0159i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b Indie,<\/strong> dostanete jen m\u00e1lokdy. Tolik lid\u00ed na ulic\u00edch, tolik troub\u00edc\u00edch \u017elut\u00fdch rik\u0161\u00ed, tolik odpadk\u016f a p\u0159ed p\u00ed\u0161\u0165alou sv\u00edjej\u00edc\u00edch se kober neuvid\u00edte nikde jinde ne\u017e v Dill\u00ed. A o kousek d\u00e1l v chemick\u00e9, \u0161pinav\u00e9 \u00c1g\u0159e n\u00e1dhern\u00fd Taj Mahal.<\/span><\/span>
\n<\/p>\n

Indie? Sm\u011bs v\u0161eho na co si jen vzpomenete. Nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed hory sv\u011bta, vyprahl\u00e9  pou\u0161t\u011b, pralesy, nekone\u010dn\u00e9  p\u00edse\u010dn\u00e9  pl\u00e1\u017ee, p\u0159ekr\u00e1sn\u00e9 mahar\u00e1d\u017esk\u00e9 pal\u00e1ce, o kousek d\u00e1l  mnoha milionov\u00e1 m\u011bsta pln\u00e1 spla\u0161k\u016f a odpadk\u016f. \u0160p\u00edna a b\u00edda, hned vedle nejdra\u017e\u0161\u00ed byty sv\u011bta, ohromuj\u00edc\u00ed luxus, bohatstv\u00ed a mezi t\u00edm v\u0161\u00edm v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fd internet. Tolik kontrast\u016f a barev jako nikde na sv\u011bt\u011b, tolik jazyk\u016f, kultur, n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>V\u017edy jsem cht\u011bla Indii nav\u0161t\u00edvit. Jednoho dne jsem si koupila levnou letenku do Dill\u00ed (s dnes ji\u017e neexistuj\u00edc\u00edm ukrajinsk\u00fdm Aerosvitem) a s kamar\u00e1dem, kter\u00fd nikdy nesed\u011bl v letadle a nikdy neopustil Evropu v listopadu vyrazila. Byla to prvn\u00ed cesta do exotiky, kterou jsem si sama zorganizovala. A nemohla jsem si vybrat l\u00e9pe. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Indie  je 41x v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e \u010cesk\u00e1 republika, \u017eije zde 1 miliarda 353 milion\u016f lid\u00ed (2018) a hlavn\u00edm m\u011bstem je 28-ti milionov\u00e9 Dill\u00ed.  Indii tvo\u0159\u00ed  28 svazov\u00fdch st\u00e1t\u016f, jsou \u010dasto zcela odli\u0161n\u00e9, ka\u017ed\u00fd m\u00e1 sv\u00e9 zvyky, tradice, jazyk. Domluvit se zde ov\u0161em nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd probl\u00e9m, v\u0161ichni toti\u017e mluv\u00ed anglicky. <\/span>Bylo t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 vybrat, kterou \u010d\u00e1st Indie procestovat.  V\u017edy m\u011b ale l\u00e1kala exotika a oce\u00e1n, proto jsem se rozhodla pro m\u00e9n\u011b zn\u00e1mou oblast jihoz\u00e1padn\u00ed Indie, st\u00e1ty Keralu  a kousek Tamil Nadu.<\/span><\/p>\n

DILL\u00cd <\/strong>                                                                 Do Dill\u00ed p\u0159il\u00e9t\u00e1me pozd\u011b v noci. Projdeme v\u00edzovou kontrolou, vym\u011bn\u00edme z\u00e1padn\u00ed m\u011bnu za m\u00edstn\u00ed rupie a opou\u0161t\u00edme leti\u0161t\u011b. Smluven\u00fd taxik\u00e1\u0159 do hotelu m\u00e1v\u00e1 na d\u00e1lku cedul\u00ed   s m\u00fdm  jm\u00e9nem. Nased\u00e1me do star\u00e9 dod\u00e1vky. Prvn\u00ed setk\u00e1n\u00ed s Indii. Pod\u00e9l cesty pl\u00e1polaj\u00ed  ohn\u011b,  okolo na  kartonech poleh\u00e1vaj\u00ed postavy v tunik\u00e1ch, v\u0161ude hromady odpadk\u016f, kter\u00e9 po\u017e\u00edraj\u00ed  potuluj\u00edc\u00ed se kr\u00e1vy a psi. Nikdo nezastavuje na \u010dervenou, prost\u011b jedou d\u00e1l, jako spla\u0161en\u00ed, troub\u00ed a troub\u00ed. Chci d\u00e1t \u0159idi\u010di bak\u0161i\u0161 20 rupi\u00ed. On si ale rovnou \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 o 200 (80 K\u010d). Z\u00e1kladn\u00ed pravidlo: nikdy ne\u0159\u00edkejte, \u017ee jste v Indii poprv\u00e9! V\u0161e budete m\u00edt 10x dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed.   Unaveni po mnoha hodinov\u00e9m letu us\u00edn\u00e1me v pokoji  bez oken,  nad hlavou se n\u00e1m to\u010d\u00ed star\u00fd kovov\u00fd v\u011btr\u00e1k s vrtul\u00ed ostrou jako ma\u010deta. Vypad\u00e1, \u017ee ka\u017edou chv\u00edli spadne a my budeme na kousky.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Main bazaar, \u010dtvr\u0165 s ubytov\u00e1n\u00edm pro ba\u0165\u016f\u017ek\u00e1\u0159e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

R\u00e1no n\u00e1s probouz\u00ed obrovsk\u00fd hluk z  ulice. Co se div\u00edme.  Jsme p\u0159ece v Indii. Bydl\u00edme v Nov\u00e9m Dill\u00ed v proslul\u00e9 \u010dtvrti Pahar Ganj (Main bazaar) s levn\u00fdm ubytov\u00e1n\u00edm pro turisty  ba\u0165\u016f\u017ek\u00e1\u0159e.  M\u00edstn\u00ed mluv\u00ed hindsky a skv\u011ble anglicky. Hned u hotelu n\u00e1s odchytne rik\u0161a (typick\u00e9 indick\u00e9 voz\u00edtko pro dv\u011b osoby, kter\u00fd \u0159\u00edd\u00ed motorista) a i kdy\u017e n\u00e1s nat\u00e1hne, projezd\u00edme s n\u00edm za dva dny v\u0161echny m\u00edstn\u00ed pam\u00e1tky. A t\u011bch je v Dill\u00ed opravdu hodn\u011b. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Humayunova hrobka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Star\u00e9 Dill\u00ed je z\u00e1\u017eitek s\u00e1m o sob\u011b. Vl\u00e1dne tu nep\u0159edstaviteln\u00fd chaos, jak v  doprav\u011b,  tak ve v\u0161em co vid\u00edme. \u0158idi\u010di neust\u00e1le  troub\u00ed, doprava  stoj\u00ed, mezi rik\u0161ami, auty a  povozy  s vyhubl\u00fdmi ko\u0148mi se propl\u00e9t\u00e1  tis\u00edce chodc\u016f, \u017eebr\u00e1k\u016f, prodejc\u016f v\u0161eho mo\u017en\u00e9ho, t\u0159eba i cihel ze star\u00fdch dom\u016f.  Prohl\u00e9dneme si nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed me\u0161itu v Indii \u2013  D\u017e\u00e1mi Masd\u017eid  z \u010dern\u00e9ho a b\u00edl\u00e9ho mramoru, kter\u00e1 pojme a\u017e 25 000 v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00edch,   prot\u011bj\u0161\u00ed  \u010cervenou pevnost , komplex t\u0159\u00ed kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fdch pal\u00e1c\u016f z dob mughalsk\u00e9 dynastie, n\u00e1dhernou zahradn\u00ed Humayunovu hrobku z roku 1571, kter\u00e1 se stala p\u0159edlohou pro slavn\u00fd Taj Mahal. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

  \u0160PINAV\u00c1 \u00c1GRA A N\u00c1V\u0160T\u011aVA TAJ MAHALU<\/strong> <\/span> <\/span>                                                                                                     <\/span>\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Taj Mahal<\/p>\n

Ten si zajedeme prohl\u00e9dnout dal\u0161\u00ed den vlakem do 200 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho \u0161pinav\u00e9ho m\u011bsta \u00c1gra. Fantastick\u00e1 stavba, cizinc\u016f tu moc nepotk\u00e1v\u00e1me, ale ka\u017ed\u00fd Ind chce s n\u00e1mi self\u00ed\u010dko. A jsou jich des\u00edtky. Jak by ne, kdy\u017e cena vstupu je pro m\u00edstn\u00ed 16 K\u010d, pro cizince 400 K\u010d! Ale stoj\u00ed to za to. Jen sem nejezd\u011bte v p\u00e1tek, je zav\u0159eno. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

ZP\u011aT V DILL\u00cd <\/span><\/strong>                                                                                      <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Bahai – Lotosov\u00fd chr\u00e1m<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Posledn\u00ed den<\/span> str\u00e1v\u00edme v ji\u017en\u00edm Dill\u00ed. Fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed  stavba z r. 1986 Lotosov\u00fd chr\u00e1m (Bahai, Lotos temple) m\u00e1 tvar nap\u016fl otev\u0159en\u00e9ho lotosov\u00e9ho kv\u011btu, je  obklopen  dev\u00edti  vodn\u00edmi n\u00e1dr\u017eemi, kter\u00e9 vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed dojem, \u017ee chr\u00e1m plave jako lotos na vod\u011b.  Siln\u011b p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1  Operu v Sydney. Na z\u00e1v\u011br si projdeme archeologick\u00fd  komplex   s nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm  cihlov\u00fdm  minaretem na sv\u011bt\u011b  z r. 1386 Kutub  Minar (72,5 m vysok\u00fd).  Vedle n\u011bj stoj\u00ed 7 m vysok\u00fd \u017delezn\u00fd sloup ze 4. stol. n. l., kter\u00fd dosud nejev\u00ed  \u017e\u00e1dnou zn\u00e1mku koroze  a  je velkou z\u00e1hadou, jak mohli lid\u00e9 v  t\u00e9 dob\u011b odl\u00edt sloup takov\u00e9 velikosti z tak mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b \u010dist\u00e9ho \u017eeleza. Dill\u00ed stoj\u00ed za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu, j\u00e1 tohle m\u011bsto prost\u011b miluji. <\/span><\/p>\n

Ale te\u010f u\u017e rychle do r\u00e1je.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\nPOKRA\u010cOV\u00c1N\u00cd<\/span><\/a>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Takovou kulturn\u00ed facku, jako p\u0159i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b Indie, dostanete jen m\u00e1lokdy. Tolik lid\u00ed na ulic\u00edch, tolik troub\u00edc\u00edch \u017elut\u00fdch rik\u0161\u00ed, tolik odpadk\u016f a p\u0159ed p\u00ed\u0161\u0165alou sv\u00edjej\u00edc\u00edch se kober neuvid\u00edte nikde jinde ne\u017e v Dill\u00ed. A o kousek d\u00e1l v chemick\u00e9, \u0161pinav\u00e9 \u00c1g\u0159e n\u00e1dhern\u00fd Taj Mahal.<\/p>\n

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