{"id":2035,"date":"2018-09-17T20:32:49","date_gmt":"2018-09-17T19:32:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=2035"},"modified":"2022-08-09T01:02:10","modified_gmt":"2022-08-09T00:02:10","slug":"sulawesi-odlehle-sangihe-zuricii-siau-a-podmorsky-raj-bunaken-3-dil","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/sulawesi-odlehle-sangihe-zuricii-siau-a-podmorsky-raj-bunaken-3-dil\/","title":{"rendered":"SULAWESI (3. \u010c\u00c1ST): ODLEHL\u00c9 SANGIHE, SOPT\u00cdC\u00cd SIAU & PODMO\u0158SK\u00dd R\u00c1J BUNAKEN"},"content":{"rendered":"

Daleko v pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch mezi indon\u00e9sk\u00fdm Sulawesi a nebezpe\u010dn\u00fdm jihem Filip\u00edn le\u017e\u00ed Sangihe<\/strong> a Siau<\/strong>. Jsou tak odlehl\u00e9, \u017ee sem zav\u00edt\u00e1 jen hrstka dobrodruh\u016f. Ostrovy pokryt\u00e9 hust\u00fdmi lesy s doutnaj\u00edc\u00edmi sopkami v\u0161ak nab\u00edzej\u00ed nev\u0161edn\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitky. A to bez dav\u016f turist\u016f. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

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Mapa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Severn\u011b od Sulawesi se v Celebesk\u00e9m mo\u0159i nach\u00e1z\u00ed Sangihe a Talaudsk\u00e9 ostrovy<\/strong>. Z celkov\u00e9ho po\u010dtu 77 jich je 56 obydlen\u00fdch. Ty nejvzd\u00e1len\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jsou pouh\u00fdch 250 km od ji\u017en\u00edch provinci\u00ed filip\u00ednsk\u00e9ho ostrova Mindanao. V nejnebezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b jihov\u00fdchodn\u00ed Asie cht\u011bj\u00ed isl\u00e1m\u0161t\u00ed radik\u00e1lov\u00e9 vytvo\u0159it sv\u016fj chal\u00edf\u00e1t, \u010dasto zde doch\u00e1z\u00ed k \u00fanos\u016fm a vra\u017ed\u00e1m cizinc\u016f. My jsme ale v bezpe\u010d\u00ed. Devastace Indon\u00e9sie vypalov\u00e1n\u00edm a p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00edm palmy olejn\u00e9 sem na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nedorazila. P\u016fsobiv\u00e1 krajina je porostl\u00e1 bujnou vegetac\u00ed, jej\u00ed kr\u00e1su podtrhuje okoln\u00ed pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 mo\u0159e s kor\u00e1lov\u00fdmi atoly. \u010casto  tu doch\u00e1z\u00ed k v\u00fdbuch\u016fm sopek a zem\u011bt\u0159esen\u00ed. P\u016fda je v\u0161ak velmi \u00farodn\u00e1, p\u011bstuje se zde hlavn\u011b kokos, vanilka, h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dek a mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00fd o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ek. V hust\u00fdch les\u00edch \u017eij\u00ed papou\u0161ci, mal\u00e9 opi\u010dky s vykulen\u00fdma o\u010dima – n\u00e1rtouni, buvoli a v okoln\u00edch vod\u00e1ch spousta ryb. Oproti jin\u00fdm kout\u016fm Indon\u00e9sie jsou ostrovy turismem t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nedot\u010den\u00e9, sem zav\u00edt\u00e1 opravdu jen m\u00e1lokdo. A proto jsme tady.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

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DALEK\u00c9 NEZN\u00c1M\u00c9 SANGIHE<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Neturistick\u00e9 Sangihe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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P\u0159\u00edmo u hlavy mi zahouk\u00e1 sir\u00e9na. Stovky lid\u00ed se hrnou z podpalub\u00ed a miz\u00ed  b\u016fh v\u00ed kam. Jen  j\u00e1 s Kubou stoj\u00edme bezradn\u011b ve tm\u011b uprost\u0159ed nezn\u00e1ma. Pak se odkudsi vyno\u0159\u00ed policista, zmaten\u011b n\u00e1m zkontroluje pasy a zaveze na sn\u00eddani do p\u011bkn\u00e9ho hotelu. Informac\u00ed o Sangihe<\/strong> (zvan\u00fd t\u00e9\u017e Sangir Besar<\/strong>) bylo na internetu m\u00e1lo. Na\u0161la jsem ale zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed pro ba\u0165\u016f\u017ek\u00e1\u0159e na jihu a dokonce m\u011bla i reference od jedin\u00e9ho \u010cecha, o kter\u00e9m v\u00edm, \u017ee ostrov nav\u0161t\u00edvil. V dod\u00e1vce mezi bednami chilli papri\u010dek a raj\u010dat tam tedy jedeme zkusit \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. Nem\u00e1me nic domluven\u00e9ho, majitel na m\u00e9 zpr\u00e1vy nereagoval. Krajina je opravdu n\u00e1dhern\u00e1. Pod\u00e9l cest se su\u0161\u00ed hromady mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00e9ho o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ku<\/strong>, kter\u00e9mu se tu \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 pala. Hustou zele\u0148 st\u0159\u00eddaj\u00ed m\u011bste\u010dka s b\u00edl\u00fdmi kostely,  severn\u00ed Sulawesi je toti\u017e siln\u011b protestantsk\u00e9. I tady si bohu\u017eel m\u00edstn\u00ed kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edrody nev\u00e1\u017e\u00ed, \u0159idi\u010d b\u011bhem j\u00edzdy vyhazuje z okna spoustu plastov\u00e9ho odpadu a lahv\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Pala – mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00fd o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na\u0161e vysn\u011bn\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed je d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e1 chaloupka uprost\u0159ed d\u017eungle. Nap\u0159ed    z n\u00ed vyjde 90let\u00e1 babi\u010dka a p\u0159ekvapen\u011b na n\u00e1s z\u00edr\u00e1. U nohy se j\u00ed plaz\u00ed deseticentimetrov\u00e1 stono\u017eka. A spousta jin\u00e9ho hmyzu. Po dlouh\u00e9 chv\u00edli se objev\u00ed jej\u00ed vnuk, kter\u00e9mu jsem psala mnoho zpr\u00e1v a mail\u016f. Dobrou angli\u010dtinou vysv\u011btluje, \u017ee mo\u0159e je p\u011bt kilometr\u016f daleko a krom\u011b d\u017eungle tu nic nen\u00ed.        S krosnami na z\u00e1dech se vrac\u00edme zp\u011bt do civilizace. V hezk\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku Tamako<\/strong> jsme okam\u017eit\u011b st\u0159edem pozornosti. Tady to u\u017e trochu \u017eije a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, zda z\u016fstaneme.  <\/span><\/p>\n

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No\u010dn\u00ed trajekt z Manada na Sangihe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Obrovsk\u00e1 stono\u017eka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Nakonec n\u00e1s m\u00edstn\u00ed playboy nalo\u017e\u00ed do sv\u00e9ho luxusn\u00edho auta a s velkou sl\u00e1vou odveze zp\u011bt do Tahuny<\/strong>, kam jsme r\u00e1no p\u0159ipluli trajektem. Je tu n\u011bkolik hotel\u016f, obchody a restaurace. A taky tis\u00edce o\u010d\u00ed, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1s sleduj\u00ed s otev\u0159enou pusou. Jak by ne, jsme moment\u00e1ln\u011b jedin\u00ed b\u011blo\u0161i na cel\u00e9m ostrov\u011b. M\u00e1me mo\u017enost vyrazit na v\u00fdlet do vnitrozem\u00ed nebo na okoln\u00ed panensk\u00e9 kor\u00e1lov\u00e9 ostrovy. Jen\u017ee za \u0161\u00edlen\u00e9 ceny. Celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet za 2000 K\u010d\/osobu bych na tak odlehl\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b ne\u010dekala. A tak si aspo\u0148 zajdeme na \u010derstv\u011b ulovenou  rybu a po dvou dnech cestov\u00e1n\u00ed kone\u010dn\u011b ulehneme do po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 postele.  Po dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b m\u00e1me i splachovac\u00ed z\u00e1chod! <\/span><\/p>\n

R\u00e1no jsme zv\u00e1ni na bohoslu\u017ebu do kostela, odkud sly\u0161\u00edme fantastick\u00e9 gospely. \u0160koda, \u017ee mus\u00edme do p\u0159\u00edstavu, za chv\u00edli n\u00e1m odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00ed mal\u00fd trajekt na jin\u00fd ostrov.    <\/span><\/p>\n

A\u017e po n\u00e1vratu dom\u016f jsem jsem zjistila, \u017ee<\/span> na ostrov\u011b \u017eije \u010cech Michal s man\u017eelkou Ibhou<\/strong>, provozuj\u00ed levn\u00fd HATTARUA GUESTHOUSE<\/strong><\/a>, REZERVACE NA BOOKING.COM<\/a><\/strong>  FACEBOOK,<\/a> EMAIL<\/strong>: hattarua@gmail.com<\/a>. Michal v\u0161em cestovatel\u016fm vzkazuje, \u017ee jej m\u00e1te rad\u011bji kontaktovat osobn\u011b ne\u017e p\u0159es booking, budete m\u00edt lep\u0161\u00ed cenu! Porad\u00ed a zajist\u00ed \u0161norchlov\u00e1n\u00ed, v\u00fdlety na sopku Awu<\/strong>, k podmo\u0159sk\u00e9mu vulk\u00e1nu Mahangetang<\/strong> a k jin\u00fdm zaj\u00edmav\u00fdm m\u00edst\u016fm. Za na\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvy jejich hostel je\u0161t\u011b neexistovat. Snad tato informace pom\u016f\u017ee ostatn\u00edm cestovatel\u016fm.<\/span><\/p>\n

Z<\/span>p\u011btn\u011b tak\u00e9 velmi litujeme, \u017ee jsme na Sangihe skoro nefotili.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Zdej\u0161\u00ed trajekty jsou modern\u00ed, klimatizovan\u00e9 a dostaneme i mal\u00e9 j\u00eddlo. \u0160koda, \u017ee nem\u016f\u017eeme na palubu. Proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme kolem malebn\u00fdch ostr\u016fvky s b\u00edl\u00fdmi pl\u00e1\u017eemi a ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdmi vesni\u010dkami. N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 pod\u00edvan\u00e1. V hlubin\u00e1ch pod n\u00e1mi se nach\u00e1z\u00ed \u010dinn\u00e1 podmo\u0159sk\u00e1 sopka Mahangetang<\/strong>, kter\u00e1 co chv\u00edli chrl\u00ed gejz\u00edry hork\u00e9 vody na hladinu. N\u011bco mi \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee dal\u0161\u00ed ostrov se n\u00e1m bude l\u00edbit.<\/span><\/p>\n

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SIAU – DOUTNAJ\u00cdC\u00cd OSTROV<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Karangetang – jedna z nej\u010dinn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch sopek v Indon\u00e9sii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Nad ostrovem Siau<\/strong> se zlov\u011bstn\u011b ty\u010d\u00ed jedna z nejaktivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch sopek v Indon\u00e9sii Karangetang<\/strong>. Nep\u0159etr\u017eit\u011b se z n\u00ed kou\u0159\u00ed a v noci te\u010dou potoky \u017ehav\u00e9 l\u00e1vy. Naposledy zu\u0159ila v z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 2013, kdy spousta obyvatel musela opustit sv\u00e9 domovy.  N\u00e1m se tu ale l\u00edb\u00ed. Na hlavn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edd\u011b se ubytujeme v p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9m hot\u00fdlku Little House<\/strong>. Ochotn\u00fd majitel na po\u017e\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed zab\u011bhne na trh pro \u010derstv\u00e9 kalam\u00e1ry, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1m p\u0159iprav\u00ed k ve\u010de\u0159i. Jsou skv\u011bl\u00e9. K sn\u00eddani zase dostaneme m\u00edsu pap\u00e1ji, avok\u00e1da a chlebovn\u00edku. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Jedeme na v\u00fdlet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Vulkanick\u00fd ostrov m\u00e1 fantastick\u00e9 vnitrozem\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jedeme prozkoumat na motork\u00e1ch. Pr\u016fvodce Ivan se div\u00ed, \u017ee jeho jm\u00e9no existuje i mimo Indon\u00e9sii. Kdyby tu\u0161il, kolik je v Rusku Ivan\u016f. Skv\u011blou angli\u010dtinou mi zodpov\u00ed ka\u017edou ot\u00e1zku. A m\u00e1m jich opravdu hodn\u011b. Kuba je na tom h\u016f\u0159e, jeho \u0159idi\u010di je patn\u00e1ct let a um\u00ed anglicky jen t\u0159i slova. V\u0161ude roste spousta tropick\u00e9ho ovoce, stromy jsou obsyp\u00e1ny mangem, pap\u00e1jou, dra\u010d\u00edm ovocem pitayou, avok\u00e1dem a kokosy.  Poprv\u00e9 vid\u00edm na v\u011btv\u00edch vis\u00edc\u00ed ohromn\u00e9 plody chlebovn\u00edku. Tak jako na Sangihe se pod\u00e9l cest su\u0161\u00ed pala, mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00fd o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ek.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Socha Krista ochra\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed Siau<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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P\u0159ed rozzu\u0159enou Karangetangou chr\u00e1n\u00ed ostrov velk\u00e1 socha Krista s rozev\u0159enou n\u00e1ru\u010d\u00ed. Dosp\u011bl\u00ed n\u00e1m s \u00fasm\u011bvem m\u00e1vaj\u00ed, d\u011bti b\u011b\u017e\u00ed za motorkami a pok\u0159ikuj\u00ed: „Hi mister!“ To se l\u00edb\u00ed hlavn\u011b Kubovi. Ve\u010der si s Ivanovou rodinou pochutn\u00e1me na grilovan\u00fdch sardink\u00e1ch v jeho domku na pl\u00e1\u017ei. Ryb\u00e1\u0159i hodnot\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00ed \u00falovky, d\u011bti pob\u00edhaj\u00ed se psy, vl\u00e1dne tu skv\u011bl\u00e1 pohoda.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Vesel\u00e1 prodava\u010dka na m\u00edstn\u00edm trhu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

M\u00edstn\u00ed tr\u017enice je pln\u00e1 ko\u0159en\u00ed, ryb a tropick\u00e9ho ovoce. V\u0161ichni n\u00e1s vesele okukuj\u00ed, prodejkyn\u011b se r\u00e1da nech\u00e1 vyfotit. Fotku pak ale mus\u00edme uk\u00e1zat v\u0161em jej\u00edm kamar\u00e1dk\u00e1m, kter\u00e9 se nad n\u00ed dlouho \u0159ehtaj\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\n

Na ostrov\u011b nen\u00ed probl\u00e9m sehnat m\u00edstn\u00ed alkohol. Pan dom\u00e1c\u00ed sko\u010d\u00ed na motorku a za p\u00e1r hodin odkudsi z bu\u0161e p\u0159iveze palmovici, kter\u00e9 tu \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed \u010daptikus<\/strong>. M\u00e1 nasl\u00e1dlou chu\u0165 a laick\u00fdm odhadem 30 % alkoholu. Je trochu v \u0161oku, kdy\u017e si ka\u017ed\u00fd koup\u00edme \u010dty\u0159i l\u00e1hve. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b jako d\u00e1rek dom\u016f, kdo z V\u00e1s kdy pil palmovici? \ud83d\ude42<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

MAHORO – R\u00c1J, KDE N\u00c1M M\u00c1LEM SHO\u0158EL \u017dIVOT<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Nen\u00ed to r\u00e1j?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Na Siau je cizinc\u016f v\u00edce. \u010cty\u0159i. My dva a holandsk\u00fd p\u00e1r. Domluv\u00edme se a vyraz\u00edme na opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fd ostrov Mahoro<\/strong>. Holan\u010fan se pt\u00e1, zda je na lodi ledni\u010dka, aby m\u011bl vychlazen\u00e9 pivo. Na d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 koc\u00e1bce ledni\u010dka nen\u00ed. Jen dva zreziv\u011bl\u00e9 motory a kanystr s benz\u00ednem. Kdy\u017e jeden p\u0159estane uprost\u0159ed mo\u0159e fungovat, lodn\u00edk ho vym\u011bn\u00ed za ten druh\u00fd, dolije benz\u00edn a jedeme d\u00e1l. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 Mahoro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Dlouh\u00e1 b\u00edl\u00e1 pl\u00e1\u017e je lemovan\u00e1 palmami, v poh\u00e1dkov\u00e9 lagun\u011b pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e1 voda a v\u0161ude okolo mal\u00e9 vulkanick\u00e9 ostr\u016fvky. Jsme tu \u00fapln\u011b sami. V hust\u00e9 vegetaci je v\u0161ak nah\u00e1zeno spousta plastov\u00e9ho odpadu po p\u0159ede\u0161l\u00fdch n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edc\u00edch. Velk\u00fd probl\u00e9m n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 Indon\u00e9sie. Po dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b zase \u0161norchlujeme, ale na otev\u0159en\u00e9m mo\u0159i je siln\u00fd proud a kor\u00e1ly tu moc p\u011bkn\u00e9 nejsou.  Kubu zar\u00e1\u017e\u00ed hust\u00fd d\u00fdm na pl\u00e1\u017ei. \u017de by si Holan\u010fan\u00e9 v takov\u00e9m horku d\u011blali ohe\u0148, kdy\u017e oba sed\u00ed s \u00fapalem ve st\u00ednu palem? Netu\u0161\u00edme, ale je to podivn\u00e9. Koup\u00e1n\u00ed     v rajsk\u00e9 lagun\u011b ale nem\u00e1 chybu, v\u016fbec se n\u00e1m odtud nechce. Kdy\u017e je \u010das   k n\u00e1vratu, jde mi Kuba pro kabelku. Nos\u00edm ji v\u0161ude, m\u00e1me v n\u00ed cel\u00fd n\u00e1\u0161 \u017eivot \u2013 pen\u00edze, pasy, mobily. A hlavn\u011b m\u00e9 inzul\u00edny, p\u0159ij\u00edt o n\u011b by byl velk\u00fd pr\u016f\u0161vih. Neust\u00e1le ji hl\u00edd\u00e1m jako ost\u0159\u00ed\u017e. Kuba se vrac\u00ed s n\u011b\u010d\u00edm oho\u0159el\u00fdm. S t\u00edm, co kdysi byla moje kabelka. Op\u0159ela jsem ji o kus such\u00e9ho d\u0159eva. Na d\u0159evo polo\u017eila slune\u010dn\u00ed br\u00fdle. Siln\u00e9 paprsky slunce p\u0159es \u010dern\u00fd plast d\u0159evo zap\u00e1lily a to za\u010dalo ho\u0159et. I s mou ta\u0161kou. Ch\u00e1pete to? Tentokr\u00e1t m\u00e1me ale \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. V\u011bci uvnit\u0159 to p\u0159e\u017eily, jen v\u0161echny von\u00ed jako z ud\u00edrny. Kabelka bohu\u017eel ne. Odte\u010f u\u017e v l\u00e9t\u011b nenos\u00edm na hlav\u011b br\u00fdle na \u010dten\u00ed, kde m\u00e1m m\u00edsto skla lupu. O sv\u00e9 vlasy bych nerada p\u0159i\u0161la a po\u017e\u00e1r na hlav\u011b by hodn\u011b bolel. <\/span><\/p>\n

Kdyby se V\u00e1m na Sulawesi n\u011bkdy n\u011bco podobn\u00e9ho p\u0159ihodilo, v Makassaru<\/strong>, hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b ostrova, je na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed honor\u00e1rn\u00ed konzul\u00e1t \u010cesk\u00e9 republiky<\/strong>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ryb\u00ed trh v Manadu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Ryb\u00ed trh v Manadu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Vrac\u00edme se do hektick\u00e9ho Manada<\/strong>. Moc tu toho k vid\u011bn\u00ed nen\u00ed, snad jen pro siln\u00e9 \u017ealudky trh Tomohon<\/strong>. Koup\u00edte tu jak\u00e1koliv zv\u00ed\u0159ata p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 k por\u00e1\u017ece. Psy, ko\u010dky, hady, krysy, netop\u00fdry. Cokoliv, krom\u011b masa lidsk\u00e9ho. My siln\u00e9 \u017ealudky nem\u00e1me. Prob\u011bhneme okolo ryb\u00edho trhu, kde se ryb\u00e1\u0159i chlub\u00ed sv\u00fdmi \u00falovky, nasedneme na levnou koc\u00e1bku pro m\u00edstn\u00ed a mezi barely nafty a pytli s r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed odplujeme do r\u00e1je pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010d\u016f. <\/span><\/p>\n

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BUNAKEN <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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Cesta na Bunaken<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Mal\u00fd ostr\u016fvek o rozloze 8 km2 se nach\u00e1z\u00ed ve stejnojmenn\u00e9m n\u00e1rodn\u00edm parku a je jednou z nejlep\u0161\u00edch pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010dsk\u00fdch lokalit v Indon\u00e9sii. V podmo\u0159sk\u00e9m kr\u00e1lovstv\u00ed \u017eije velk\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed kor\u00e1l\u016f, hub, \u0161kebl\u00ed, ryb a \u017eelv. Viditelnost v pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9 vod\u011b je a\u017e 40 metr\u016f.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Plav\u00e1n\u00ed s \u017eelvami<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Podmo\u0159sk\u00fd sv\u011bt<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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V\u0161ichni n\u00e1s varovali p\u0159ed n\u00e1valy pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010d\u016f a vysok\u00fdmi cenami. Bunaken<\/strong> je mezi turisty d\u00edky sv\u00e9 poloze a podmo\u0159sk\u00e9mu \u017eivotu velmi obl\u00edben\u00fd. Ale i kdy\u017e sez\u00f3na u\u017e za\u010dala, v cel\u00e9m resortu jsme jen my a t\u0159i francouz\u0161t\u00ed pot\u00e1p\u011b\u010di. Tak jako na Togianech bydl\u00edme v d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9 chati\u010dce s v\u011bdrem m\u00edsto sprchy. Na ostr\u016fvku je velk\u00fd nedostatek sladk\u00e9 vody, „sprchujeme“ se tedy ve slan\u00e9. Nikomu to ale nevad\u00ed, jinak to tu prost\u011b nejde. Posledn\u00ed dny \u0161norchlujeme okolo kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch kor\u00e1l\u016f pln\u00fdch barevn\u00fdch hv\u011bzdic a ryb. Na otev\u0159en\u00e9m mo\u0159i dokonce plaveme mezi obrovsk\u00fdmi \u017eelvami. A v\u0161ude kolem n\u00e1s z mo\u0159e vystupuj\u00ed n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 vulk\u00e1ny.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

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ROZLOU\u010cEN\u00cd SE SULAWESI<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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Posledn\u00ed pohled na Sulawesi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Turist\u00e9 jsou dnes \u00fapln\u011b v\u0161ude<\/strong>. I na Sulawesi<\/strong>. Oproti jin\u00fdm kout\u016fm Indon\u00e9sie v\u0161ak ostrov zat\u00edm nenav\u0161t\u011bvuj\u00ed davy turist\u016f, v n\u011bkter\u00fdch m\u00edstech budete \u00fapln\u011b sami. Sulawesi<\/strong> se tak\u00e9 vyhnulo vypalov\u00e1n\u00ed les\u016f a p\u011bstov\u00e1n\u00ed palmy olejn\u00e9, je st\u00e1le porostl\u00e9 hust\u00fdmi lesy a m\u016f\u017eete nav\u0161t\u00edvit spoustu n\u00e1rodn\u00edch park\u016f. Pokud byste cht\u011bli procestovat v\u0161echna \u010dty\u0159i chapadla ostrova, budete pot\u0159ebovat opravdu hodn\u011b \u010dasu. A ur\u010dit\u011b si n\u011bkde dejte skv\u011bl\u00fd avok\u00e1dov\u00fd koktejl. <\/strong> <\/span><\/p>\n

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Nevynechejte avok\u00e1dov\u00fd koktejl<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

P\u0158EDCHOZ\u00cd CESTOPISY O SULAWEWI:<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n