{"id":1953,"date":"2018-09-13T14:24:14","date_gmt":"2018-09-13T13:24:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=1953"},"modified":"2022-08-09T01:08:28","modified_gmt":"2022-08-09T00:08:28","slug":"sulawesi-krvave-zvyky-v-tana-toraja-1-cast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/sulawesi-krvave-zvyky-v-tana-toraja-1-cast\/","title":{"rendered":"SULAWESI (1.\u010c\u00c1ST): KRVAV\u00c1 TANA TORAJA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Divok\u00e9 hory, r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e1 pole a tongokonany, domy p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed lod\u011b.  Ale tak\u00e9 potoky krve z ob\u011btn\u00edch buvol\u016f a mrtv\u00e9 d\u011bti zarostl\u00e9 v kmenech strom\u016f. To je tajemn\u00e1 Tana Toraja na indon\u00e9sk\u00e9m ostrov\u011b Sulawesi. A na z\u00e1v\u011br rada, jak se nejrychleji dostat do p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00e9 Ampany<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mapa Indon\u00e9sie<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

M\u00e1lo zn\u00e1m\u00fd ostrov Sulawes<\/strong>i, d\u0159\u00edve naz\u00fdvan\u00fd Celebes, je jeden\u00e1ct\u00fd nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ostrov na sv\u011bt\u011b. Obklopuj\u00ed ho Filip\u00edny, Kalimantan (Borneo), Mal\u00e9 Sundy a Moluky (hned za nimi Papua Nov\u00e1 Guinea). Na rozloze 2,5x v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e \u010cesk\u00e1 republika \u017eije t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 devaten\u00e1ct mili\u00f3n\u016f obyvatel. Etnick\u00e9 a n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00e9 slo\u017een\u00ed je velmi pestr\u00e9. Ji\u017en\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st ostrova je p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b muslimsk\u00e1, oblasti na severu k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9. Ve vnitrozem\u00ed centr\u00e1ln\u00edho Sulawesi \u017eij\u00ed vedle sebe ob\u011b skupiny, co\u017e bohu\u017eel vede k ob\u010dasn\u00fdm st\u0159et\u016fm. V roce 1998 se muslimsk\u00fd ramad\u00e1n odehr\u00e1val ve stejnou dobu jako k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 v\u00e1noce. Na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den v opileck\u00e9 bitce pobodal k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fd mlad\u00edk muslimsk\u00e9ho.  Ud\u00e1lost odstartovala n\u00e1sil\u00ed, kter\u00e9 po sob\u011b zanechalo stovky mrtv\u00fdch a tis\u00edce uprchl\u00edk\u016f bez domova. Krvav\u00e9 st\u0159ety pokra\u010dovaly je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bkolik let, podobn\u00e1 situace byla i na vedlej\u0161\u00edch st\u0159edn\u00edch Moluk\u00e1ch. Dnes je sice klid, vztahy jsou v\u0161ak k\u0159ehk\u00e9 a napjat\u00e9.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ostrov p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 orchidej. Nebo chobotnici.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Vulkanick\u00fd ostrov sv\u00fdm nezvykl\u00fdm tvarem p<\/strong>\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 kv\u011bt orchideje. Nebo taky chobotnici se \u010dty\u0159mi chapadly. Kv\u016fli \u0161patn\u00e9 infrastruktu\u0159e je nemo\u017en\u00e9 jej procestovat cel\u00fd b\u011bhem na\u0161eho t\u0159\u00edt\u00fddenn\u00edho pobytu. Do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta Makassar<\/strong> na sam\u00e9m konci ji\u017en\u00edho prstu p\u0159il\u00e9t\u00e1me s p\u0159\u00edtelem Kubou  o p\u016flnoci. Mimochodem let z Prahy n\u00e1m trval 38 hodin. Sice jsme 4x p\u0159estupovali (v Kyjev\u011b, Dubaji, katarsk\u00e9m Doha a  Jakart\u011b), ale p\u00e1r tis\u00edc korun u\u0161et\u0159ili. V Makassaru se nezdr\u017eujeme, po po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 d\u00e1vce sp\u00e1nku koup\u00edme m\u00edstn\u00ed SIM kartu s internetem  a ve\u010der odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do vnitrozem\u00ed ostrova. 320 km zvl\u00e1dne klimatizovan\u00fd autobus za dev\u011bt hodin. \u201eD\u00e1lnice\u201c p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 tankodrom, jako bychom jeli po lavin\u011b kamen\u00ed. Silnice ale pr\u00fd pat\u0159\u00ed k nejlep\u0161\u00edm v zemi.<\/span><\/p>\n

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K\u00e1vovn\u00edky v Tana Toraja<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

TANA TORAJA<\/strong>   <\/span><\/p>\n

Jsme v jedn\u00e9 z nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed Indon\u00e9sie, jakou nikde jinde na sv\u011bt\u011b nenajdete. \u0160\u0165avnat\u011b zelen\u00e1 horsk\u00e1 krajina je poseta pol\u00ed\u010dky r\u00fd\u017ee, k\u00e1vovn\u00edky a tropick\u00fdmi plodinami. Voln\u011b se pasouc\u00ed vodn\u00ed buvoli symbolizuj\u00ed bohatstv\u00ed a spole\u010densk\u00e9 postaven\u00ed rodiny. Nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed turistickou atrakc\u00ed jsou tradi\u010dn\u00ed domy tongkonany<\/strong>. Jejich st\u0159echy p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed lod\u011b, na kter\u00fdch p\u016fvodn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 v d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch p\u0159ipluli.  Nebo tak\u00e9 rohy ob\u011btn\u00edch buvol\u016f, kter\u00fdmi jsou stavby bohat\u011b zdoben\u00e9. Jsou jich tu cel\u00e9 vesnice, r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9 s\u00fdpky, dokonce i hotely. Mezi nejhez\u010d\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed vesni\u010dka Kete Ketsu. Proto\u017ee je za\u010d\u00e1tek sezony (polovina dubna), turist\u016f tu zat\u00edm moc nen\u00ed. Kdy\u017e si ale vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1me skv\u011blou m\u00edstn\u00ed k\u00e1vu, zaslechneme zn\u00e1mou \u0159e\u010d. M\u00edj\u00ed n\u00e1s velk\u00e1 skupina \u010cech\u016f s pr\u016fvodcem. Ten n\u00e1s srde\u010dn\u011b zdrav\u00ed, v\u00edce se ale nebav\u00edme. I kdy\u017e v m\u00e9m okol\u00ed nikdo Sulawesi neznal, p\u0159i hled\u00e1n\u00ed informac\u00ed na internetu jsem byla p\u0159ekvapen\u00e1, kolik \u010cech\u016f ostrov ji\u017e nav\u0161t\u00edvilo. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Hrobe\u010dky d\u011bt\u00ed ve stromech<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ve strom\u011b se vydlabe d\u00edra  a t\u011bl\u00ed\u010dko mrtv\u00e9ho d\u00edt\u011bte do n\u00ed vlo\u017e\u00ed.  Otvory se \u010dasem zacel\u00ed, tak\u017ee nikdo dodnes nev\u00ed, kolik d\u011bt\u00ed ve stromech je.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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Torajov\u00e9 (v p\u0159ekladu venkovan\u00e9, horal\u00e9) vyzn\u00e1vaj\u00ed k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed. Sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jejich \u017eivota v\u0161ak st\u00e1le z\u016fst\u00e1vaj\u00ed krvav\u00e9 ritu\u00e1ly p\u016fvodn\u00ed animistick\u00e9 v\u00edry Alok Todolo<\/strong> (\u00facta k p\u0159edk\u016fm). Smrt\u00ed tu toti\u017e \u017eivot nekon\u010d\u00ed. Nebo\u017et\u00edk je a\u017e do poh\u0159bu pova\u017eov\u00e1n za nemocn\u00e9ho \u010di sp\u00edc\u00edho. N\u00e1kladn\u00fd ob\u0159ad se \u010dasto kon\u00e1 n\u011bkolik let po smrti, a\u017e na n\u011bj rodina na\u0161et\u0159\u00ed. Necht\u011bjte vid\u011bt, jak vypad\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b mumifikovan\u00e9 t\u011blo. V\u011bt\u0161ina pen\u011bz padne na n\u00e1kup ob\u011btn\u00edch  buvol\u016f. Ti jsou b\u011bhem \u017eivota s l\u00e1skou ope\u010dov\u00e1van\u00ed, p\u0159ed slavnost\u00ed v\u0161ak nehum\u00e1nn\u011b pod\u0159ez\u00e1v\u00e1ni na b\u0159ehu \u0159eky. Poh\u0159ebn\u00edch ceremoni\u00ed se \u00fa\u010dastn\u00ed stovky a\u017e tis\u00edce host\u016f a trvaj\u00ed i t\u00fdden. Turist\u00e9 jsou v\u0159ele v\u00edt\u00e1ni, sta\u010d\u00ed jen p\u0159in\u00e9st n\u011bjak\u00fd dar. T\u011blo je potom poh\u0159beno v jeskyni ve zdej\u0161\u00edch sr\u00e1zech, m\u00edsto se ozna\u010d\u00ed so\u0161kou tau-tau, kter\u00e1 m\u00e1 oble\u010den\u00ed i obli\u010dej zesnul\u00e9ho. Jsou v\u0161ude okolo, nejv\u00edce u vesni\u010dek Lemo a Londa. Naprosto \u0161okuj\u00edc\u00ed je pak poh\u0159b\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed d\u011bti, kter\u00fdm je\u0161t\u011b nevyrostly zuby. Ve strom\u011b se vydlabe d\u00edra, kam je t\u011bl\u00ed\u010dko uzav\u0159eno d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdmi dv\u00ed\u0159ky.  M\u00edstn\u00ed v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee d\u00edt\u011b \u010derp\u00e1 s\u00edlu z m\u00edzy strom\u016f, vyroste a v 16 letech odlet\u00ed. Proto\u017ee se otvory \u010dasem zacel\u00ed, nikdo dodnes nev\u00ed, kolik d\u011bt\u00ed ve stromech je. Najdete je nap\u0159. v Kambi\u0159e.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Torajsk\u00e9 domy a r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9 s\u00fdpky<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jako v\u011bt\u0161ina turist\u016f, i my se ubytujeme v m\u011bste\u010dku Rantepao. Hotel Pison je hezk\u00fd a docela levn\u00fd (330 K\u010d\/dvoul\u016f\u017ekov\u00fd pokoj se sn\u00eddan\u00ed). U\u017e\u00edv\u00e1me si kvalitn\u00ed wifi, tepl\u00e9 vody a toalety z\u00e1padn\u00edho typu. S t\u00edmto luxusem se te\u010f na dlouhou dobu rozlou\u010d\u00edme. Koch\u00e1me se v\u00fdhledem na okoln\u00ed hory. A omamnou v\u016fn\u00ed k\u00e1vy. P\u0159\u00edmo pod balk\u00f3nem je pra\u017e\u00edrna k\u00e1vy, kde n\u00e1m ji i \u010derstv\u011b pomelou.<\/span><\/p>\n

Po\u0159\u00e1d jsme si je\u0161t\u011b neodpo\u010dinuli z dlouh\u00e9ho p\u0159eletu a nechce se n\u00e1m ztr\u00e1cet \u010das v m\u00edstn\u00ed doprav\u011b. Proto si tradi\u010dn\u00ed vesni\u010dky a kr\u00e1snou krajinu projedeme s pr\u016fvodcem v pronajat\u00e9m aut\u011b. Na turisty zvykl\u00e1 Tana Toraja<\/strong> nen\u00ed levn\u00e1, ale zase toho vid\u00edme opravdu hodn\u011b. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Spr\u00e1vn\u00ed m\u011bsto Makale<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Druh\u00fd den ale  oblast\u00ed cestujeme sd\u00edlen\u00fdm taxi kijang<\/strong> spolu m\u00edstn\u00edmi. Dojedeme a\u017e do spr\u00e1vn\u00edho m\u011bsta Makale<\/strong>, kde n\u00e1s zastihne mohutn\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161\u0165. Nevad\u00ed, \u00fakryt se \u0161\u00e1lkem k\u00e1vy n\u00e1m nab\u00edz\u00ed ve sv\u00e9 slu\u017eebn\u011b vysm\u00e1t\u00ed policist\u00e9. Z vysok\u00e9ho kopce  Buntu Burake<\/strong>  shl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed na m\u011bsto ohromn\u00e1 socha Krista. Je pom\u011brn\u011b nov\u00e1, z roku 2015, cel\u00e1 z bronzu a m\u011b\u0159\u00ed 40 metr\u016f. O 10 metr\u016f p\u0159evy\u0161uje zn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed p\u0159\u00edbuznou v Rio de Janeiru. \u0160koda, \u017ee jsme o n\u00ed nev\u011bd\u011bli d\u0159\u00edve, u\u017e nem\u00e1me \u010das se k n\u00ed vydat. Tak si aspo\u0148 vyfot\u00edme sochu hrd\u00e9ho torajsk\u00e9ho bojovn\u00edka uprost\u0159ed m\u011bsta.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

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\nhttp:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/VID_20170417_163030.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n

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P\u0158EJEZD DO AMPANY<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f hl\u00e1s\u00ed de\u0161tiv\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed, a tak prch\u00e1me za slun\u00ed\u010dkem k mo\u0159i.  Do 530 km vzd\u00e1len\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edstavu Ampana<\/strong> trv\u00e1 cesta vnitrozem\u00edm skoro dva dny. Jezd\u00ed tak v\u0161ichni turist\u00e9 a ur\u010dit\u011b stoj\u00ed za to, zastavit se u malebn\u00e9ho jezera Poso nebo okoln\u00edch n\u00e1rodn\u00edch parc\u00edch. J\u00e1 ale na\u0161la rychlej\u0161\u00ed zp\u016fsob. No\u010dn\u00edm autobusem se vrac\u00edme po tankodromu do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta Makassar<\/strong>, hned sedneme na letadlo (Sriwijaya air <\/strong>– 1000 K\u010d, vnitrost\u00e1tn\u00ed lety jsou opravdu levn\u00e9) a za hodinku jsme na \u00fapln\u00e9m konci v\u00fdchodn\u00edho chapadla, ve m\u011bst\u011b Luwuk<\/strong>. P\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00ed letad\u00e9lka na mal\u00e9 ranveji pod\u00e9l k\u0159i\u0161\u0165\u00e1lov\u00e9ho mo\u0159e je naprosto impozantn\u00ed. Cestovatel\u00e9 odtud jezd\u00ed do Ampany<\/strong> tax\u00edkem za nek\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 pen\u00edze. Zkou\u0161\u00edm zavolat na \u010d\u00edslo, kter\u00e9 si v Luwuku vyfotila novin\u00e1\u0159ka Kl\u00e1ra K\u0159\u00ed\u017eov\u00e1 (http:\/\/zena-in.cz\/)<\/a> a za chv\u00edli se vezeme v dod\u00e1vce zvan\u00e9 bemo<\/strong> mezi pytli r\u00fd\u017ee a cementu. 200 km po rozbit\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch n\u00e1m zabere osm hodin a u\u0161et\u0159\u00ed spoustu pen\u011bz.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Probuzen\u00ed v Ampan\u011b<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bud\u00ed m\u011b z\u00e1plava slune\u010dn\u00edch paprsk\u016f a zv\u011bdav\u011b vyb\u00edh\u00e1m p\u0159ed d\u0159ev\u011bnou chatku. S \u00fa\u017easem z\u00edr\u00e1m na hladinu pr\u016fzra\u010dn\u00e9ho mo\u0159e probleskuj\u00edc\u00ed mezi kokosov\u00fdmi palmami. Jsme v r\u00e1ji! Ale<\/span> <\/span>kdepak, ten n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 za p\u00e1r hodin.<\/span> <\/span><\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

       M\u016e\u017dE SE V\u00c1M HODIT:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n