{"id":1494,"date":"2018-06-28T22:01:11","date_gmt":"2018-06-28T21:01:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/?p=1494"},"modified":"2020-10-19T22:51:02","modified_gmt":"2020-10-19T21:51:02","slug":"iran-couchsurfing-alkohol-na-vlastni-pest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zuzanahabanova.com\/about\/iran-couchsurfing-alkohol-na-vlastni-pest\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00cdR\u00c1N – NEPIJTE ALKOHOL, DOSTANETE BI\u010cEM!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Poje\u010fte se mou na vlastn\u00ed p\u011bst do \u00cdr\u00e1nu, ubytujte se u m\u00edstn\u00edch na couchsurfing, ochutnejte  zak\u00e1zan\u00fd alkohol a za\u017eijte spoustu dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed v t\u00e9to \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 zemi.<\/span><\/p>\n

Medi\u00e1ln\u00ed obraz \u00cdr\u00e1nu je \u0161patn\u00fd. Zem\u011b terorist\u016f s atomovou bombou v ruce, vypad\u00e1 to tam jako v Afgh\u00e1nist\u00e1nu. V dne\u0161n\u00ed informa\u010dn\u00ed mas\u00e1\u017ei je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 rozeznat, co je pravda a co ne. Jen\u017ee od t\u011bch, co jej nav\u0161t\u00edvili, neusly\u0161\u00edte \u017e\u00e1dnou \u0161patnou zku\u0161enost. Ba naopak. Jsou nad\u0161eni   krajinou, pam\u00e1tkami a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm lidmi.  A za t\u011bmi jsem se vydala i j\u00e1.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mapa cesty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

P\u00c1R INFORMAC\u00cd O \u00cdR\u00c1NU<\/strong>                V zemi 21x v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e \u010cesk\u00e1 republika \u017eije 82 milion\u016f obyvatel (2017). 90 % z nich jsou \u0161i\u00edt\u0161t\u00ed muslimov\u00e9. Velk\u00e1 v\u00fdjimka a zdroj nep\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00ed na p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm sunnitsk\u00e9m Bl\u00edzk\u00e9m v\u00fdchod\u011b. \u00da\u0159edn\u00edm jazykem je per\u0161tina (fars\u00ed), plat\u00ed se \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00fdm ri\u00e1lem. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Duchovn\u00ed v\u016fdci Chomejn\u00ed a dne\u0161n\u00ed Chamene\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Co se t\u00fd\u010de ned\u00e1vn\u00e9 historie, posledn\u00edm panovn\u00edkem Persie byl Muhammad Rez\u00e1 Pahlav\u00ed. Do\u0161lo k ur\u010dit\u00e9mu uvoln\u011bn\u00ed, ale spole\u010dnost nebyla p\u0159ipravena na jeho rychl\u00e9 proz\u00e1padn\u00ed reformy. \u017dil ve velk\u00e9m bohatstv\u00ed, oby\u010dejn\u00ed lid\u00e9 trp\u011bli b\u00eddou.  V roce 1978 propukly v cel\u00e9 zemi  nepokoje,  kter\u00e9 vy\u00fastily v revoluci. \u0160\u00e1h Pahlav\u00ed uprchl do exilu a vl\u00e1dy se ujal charismatick\u00fd aj\u00e1toll\u00e1h R\u00faholl\u00e1h Chomejn\u00ed. Lid\u00e9 v\u011b\u0159ili v lep\u0161\u00ed \u010dasy, bohu\u017eel Chomejn\u00ed nastolil tvrd\u00fd n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fd re\u017eim a doch\u00e1zelo k masivn\u00edmu zat\u00fdk\u00e1n\u00ed a mu\u010den\u00ed opozice.  Persie se p\u0159ejmenovala na \u00cdr\u00e1nskou isl\u00e1mskou republiku. V dne\u0161n\u00ed dob\u011b se pom\u011bry v zemi lehce uvolnily, \u00cdr\u00e1n se sna\u017e\u00ed spolupracovat se z\u00e1padn\u00edm sv\u011btem          (s Trumpem to moc nejde), zejm\u00e9na mlad\u00ed lid\u00e9 tou\u017e\u00ed po demokracii a svobod\u011b.                                                                            Zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed je, \u017ee v 80. letech byla porodnost 6,5 d\u00edt\u011bte na \u017eenu, dnes se sn\u00ed\u017eila po \u0159\u00e1dn\u00e9 antikoncep\u010dn\u00ed osv\u011bt\u011b na 1,6 d\u00edt\u011bte na \u017eenu. Za p\u0159\u00edpadn\u00e9 nep\u0159esnosti se omlouv\u00e1m, v\u00edce najdete na:   https:\/\/cs.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%C3%8Dr%C3%A1n<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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Zpr\u00e1va od oper\u00e1tora<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Do Teher\u00e1nu let\u00edme s kamar\u00e1dkou z V\u00eddn\u011b s tureckou spole\u010dnost\u00ed Pegasus. Ta dnes levn\u011b l\u00e9t\u00e1 i z Prahy. T\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed p\u0159ist\u00e1n\u00edm si v\u0161echny \u017eeny zahaluj\u00ed vlasy a, obl\u00e9kaj\u00ed \u010dern\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b. V \u00cdr\u00e1nu neexistuje, aby \u017eena m\u011bla na ulici odhalen\u00e9 vlasy, ruce a nedejbo\u017ee nohy. Na dodr\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fdch vl\u00e1dn\u00edch na\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed dohl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed policie, nikdo si je nedovol\u00ed poru\u0161it. I my si skr\u00fdv\u00e1me vlasy pod pevn\u00e9 \u0161\u00e1tky. <\/span><\/p>\n

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Svatyn\u011b Hazrat-e Masumeh<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

QOM  (KOM)<\/strong> <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Z leti\u0161t\u011b m\u00ed\u0159\u00edme do Qomu, druh\u00e9ho nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho m\u011bsta \u00cdr\u00e1nu. V roce 1979 zde za\u010dala revoluce, kter\u00e1 vedla k nastolen\u00ed n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00e9ho re\u017eimu. Jsme jako p\u011bst na oko. N\u011bkdo na n\u00e1s z\u00edr\u00e1 vyd\u011b\u0161en\u011b, n\u011bkdo  pobaven\u011b. V\u0161echny \u017eeny jsou toti\u017e zahalen\u00e9 v \u010dern\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1dorech, pl\u00e1\u0161t\u00edch zahaluj\u00edc\u00ed cel\u00e9 t\u011blo od hlavy ke kotn\u00edk\u016fm. Mezi vr\u00e1nami z\u00e1\u0159\u00edme v barevn\u00fdch \u0161\u00e1tc\u00edch a tunik\u00e1ch jako papou\u0161ci. Zdej\u0161\u00ed zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed je kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 svatyn\u011b Hazrat-e Masumeh<\/strong>, hrobka Fatimy, sestry Imama Rezy, Z vr\u00e1tnice vyb\u00edh\u00e1 zd\u011b\u0161en\u00fd zam\u011bstnanec, p\u0159ehazuje p\u0159es n\u00e1s jak\u00e9si deky a rychle odv\u00e1d\u00ed do kancel\u00e1\u0159e. U \u010daje a su\u0161enek se vypt\u00e1v\u00e1, pro\u010d tu jsme, moc turist\u016f sem toti\u017e nezav\u00edt\u00e1, turistek u\u017e v\u016fbec ne. Provede n\u00e1s komplexem se zlatou kopul\u00ed a modr\u00fdmi minarety, je v\u0161ak nerv\u00f3zn\u00ed ze v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00fdch zv\u00eddav\u00fdch o\u010d\u00ed. Lid\u00e9 jsou ale mil\u00ed, ka\u017ed\u00fd pohled doprov\u00e1z\u00ed \u00fasm\u011bv. Po prohl\u00eddce n\u00e1s vystr\u010d\u00ed p\u0159ed br\u00e1nu, poru\u010d\u00ed taxik\u00e1\u0159i, a\u0165 n\u00e1s rychle odveze na autobus a pry\u010d z Qomu. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n

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Couchsurfing v Kashanu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

KASHAN                                         <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

V pou\u0161tn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Kashan m\u00e1me domluven\u00e9 ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159es couchsurfing<\/strong> (ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed pro cestovatele zadarmo: https:\/\/cs.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/CouchSurfing<\/a>). Tak jako nap\u0159. facebook je v \u00cdr\u00e1nu neleg\u00e1ln\u00ed, ale nezn\u00e1m zemi, kde by fungoval l\u00e9pe. M\u00edstn\u00ed kontakt s cizinci miluj\u00ed. V\u00edt\u00e1 n\u00e1s mlad\u00fd man\u017eelsk\u00fd p\u00e1r Tima a Ehsan. \u017dij\u00ed v kr\u00e1sn\u00e9m byt\u011b, \u00cdr\u00e1nci si potrp\u00ed na koberce, z\u00e1v\u011bsy, pol\u0161t\u00e1\u0159e a potahy z kvalitn\u00edch l\u00e1tek. Bydl\u00ed tu s n\u00e1mi je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r ze \u0160v\u00fdcarska, s kter\u00fdm budeme  n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed dva dny cestovat. P\u016fvabn\u00e1 Tima je upov\u00eddan\u00e1 a v man\u017eelstv\u00ed vl\u00e1dne \u017eeleznou rukou. Klidn\u00fd Ehsen ji poslouch\u00e1 na slovo. V soukrom\u00ed domu si m\u016f\u017eeme sundat \u0161\u00e1tky, Tima je v\u0161ak z konzervativn\u00ed rodiny a \u0160v\u00fdcar ji prost\u011b nesm\u00ed vid\u011bt \u201enahou\u201c. Je to  jej\u00ed rozhodnut\u00ed. Proto\u017ee je p\u00e1tek, pro muslimy ned\u011ble, p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed \u0161irok\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edbuzenstvo ke spole\u010dn\u00e9 ve\u010de\u0159i, kter\u00e9 se mus\u00edme z\u00fa\u010dastnit. Sed\u00edme na koberci  kolem velk\u00e9ho ubrus a cpeme se dom\u00e1c\u00ed pol\u00e9vkou, hromadami \u0161afr\u00e1nov\u00e9 r\u00fd\u017ee, nakl\u00e1danou zeleninou a masov\u00fdmi kuli\u010dkami. A v\u0161e zap\u00edj\u00edme vodou z r\u016f\u017e\u00ed. Rodinu nejv\u00edce pobav\u00ed, \u017ee jsme byly v Qomu, kde nikdo z nich nikdy nebyl a ani se nechyst\u00e1. Us\u00edn\u00e1me na slab\u00fdch leh\u00e1tk\u00e1ch na koberci, a takto budeme sp\u00e1t t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 po celou na\u0161i cestu. I tento styl cestov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00e1 sv\u00e9 kouzlo.                                                                                      <\/span><\/p>\n

R\u00e1no v rychlosti nav\u0161t\u011bvujeme historick\u00e9 domy bohat\u00fdch m\u011b\u0161\u0165an\u016f<\/strong>. Je tu hodn\u011b m\u00edstn\u00edch n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016f a ka\u017ed\u00fd se sna\u017e\u00ed prohodit p\u00e1r slov anglicky. A pak u\u017e hur\u00e1 mimo civilizaci. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n

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V pou\u0161ti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

V\u00ddLET DO POU\u0160T\u011a<\/strong>                                                                                            Tak tohle byla naprost\u00e1 pecka! Mlad\u00ed \u00cdr\u00e1nci pou\u0161\u0165 miluj\u00ed, nejsou pod dohledem v\u0161udyp\u0159\u00edtomn\u00e9 policie, pust\u00ed si nahlas hudbu, d\u00edvky odhod\u00ed \u0161\u00e1tky a bav\u00ed se. Stejn\u011b jako my. Taxi jede pou\u0161tn\u00ed rallye, ob\u011b sed\u00edme skoro a\u017e na st\u0159e\u0161e, hlad\u00edme si voln\u011b potuluj\u00edc\u00ed velbloudy, \u0161plh\u00e1me na duny a brouzd\u00e1me po rozpraskan\u00e9m b\u00edl\u00e9m dn\u011b soln\u00e9ho jezera<\/strong>. V karavanseraji<\/strong>, kter\u00fd d\u0159\u00edve slou\u017eil jako \u00fakryt pro karavany, n\u00e1m \u0159idi\u010di p\u0159iprav\u00ed skv\u011blou ve\u010de\u0159i, po kter\u00e9 u vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmky s jable\u010dn\u00fdm tab\u00e1kem hodiny debatujeme o \u017eivot\u011b v \u00cdr\u00e1nu, politice a n\u00e1bo\u017eenstv\u00ed. Nikdy nezapomenu slova mlad\u00e9ho vysoko\u0161kol\u00e1ka Al\u00edho:  „Vy v Evrop\u011b si mysl\u00edte, \u017ee jsme terorist\u00e9, ale copak n\u011bkdy n\u011bkdo u n\u00e1s vzal pu\u0161ku a post\u0159\u00edlel d\u011bti ve \u0161kole jako na Z\u00e1pad\u011b?“ Ano, neple\u0165me si Per\u0161any se sunnitsk\u00fdmi radik\u00e1ly.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n

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Holy\u0161ram<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Po cest\u011b do Esfah\u00e1nu se zastav\u00edme u p\u00e1r zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed. Ve vyfasovan\u00fdch b\u00edl\u00fdch \u010d\u00e1dorech se proch\u00e1z\u00edme  holy\u0161ramem<\/strong>, n\u011bco jak me\u0161itou. Je p\u0159en\u00e1dhern\u00fd zvenku i uvnit\u0159, kde si \u017eeny hraj\u00ed s d\u011btmi nebo relaxuj\u00ed s knihou. Abyaneh<\/strong>, turistickou vesni\u010dku, kde \u017eij\u00ed jen sta\u0159\u00ed lid\u00e9, m\u016f\u017eete vynechat,  nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho tam nen\u00ed. V divok\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch m\u011b taxik\u00e1\u0159 hl\u00edd\u00e1, a\u0165 nic nefot\u00edm, zrovna proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme oblast\u00ed Natanz<\/strong>, kolem tov\u00e1rny na obohacov\u00e1n\u00ed uranu. Nevad\u00ed, stejn\u011b je v\u0161e ukryto za velk\u00fdmi ploty.  <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_3_placeholder\n

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Imanovo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

ESFAH\u00c1N<\/span> (ISFAH\u00c1N)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

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„Esfah\u00e1n nesf-e D\u017eah\u00e1n –  Esfah\u00e1n je polovina sv\u011bta“<\/span>  <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Fantastick\u00e9 m\u011bsto!  P\u0159\u00edmo v centru  se nach\u00e1z\u00ed rozlehl\u00e9 Im\u00e1movo n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed<\/strong> se stejnojmennou me\u0161itou. Po stran\u00e1ch stoj\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed skvosty persk\u00e9 architektury: pal\u00e1c Al\u00ed Q\u00e1p\u00fa<\/strong> a me\u0161ita \u0160ejcha<\/strong> Lotfoll\u00e1ha<\/strong>. Baz\u00e9nky, font\u00e1ny, upraven\u00e1 zele\u0148 a spousty relaxuj\u00edc\u00edch usm\u011bvav\u00fdch lid\u00ed. N\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed pr\u00e1vem pat\u0159\u00ed na seznam UNESCO.<\/span>                                                                                             <\/span><\/p>\n

Ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed m\u00e1me domluven\u00e9 u mlad\u00e9ho studenta univerzity, mimochodem tady studuj\u00ed \u00fapln\u011b v\u0161ichni. Hled\u00e1me odpo\u010dinek, on  na\u0161i n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu poj\u00edm\u00e1 trochu jinak. Spolu s jeho bratrancem jedeme na chatu kamsi za m\u011bsto. Z\u0159ejm\u011b n\u00e1s cht\u011bj\u00ed ohromit, u chaty je skvostn\u011b nasv\u00edcen\u00fd baz\u00e9n, v\u0161e pe\u010dliv\u011b ukryto za vysokou zd\u00ed. Tohle jsem tedy v \u00cdr\u00e1nu ne\u010dekala. Kamar\u00e1dka jde  rad\u011bji sp\u00e1t a j\u00e1 debatuji s kluky v alt\u00e1nu na zahrad\u011b. A je to tady! Py\u0161n\u011b vytahuj\u00ed l\u00e1hev araku. Nev\u00edm, co m\u011bli v pl\u00e1nu, ale ur\u010dit\u011b ne\u010dekali, \u017ee potkaj\u00ed holku z Moravy odkojenou slivovic\u00ed. Za dv\u011b hodinky le\u017e\u00ed hlavami na stole a tvrd\u011b sp\u00ed. D\u00e1v\u00e1m si na jejich zdrav\u00ed posledn\u00edho pan\u00e1\u010dka a jdu taky. Necht\u011bjte v\u011bd\u011bt, jak r\u00e1no vypadali. V \u00cdr\u00e1nu to toti\u017e s alkoholem nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 sranda. Podle \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e9ho z\u00e1kon\u00edku hroz\u00ed za jeho konzumaci trest osmdes\u00e1ti ran bi\u010dem. Jen\u017ee zak\u00e1zan\u00e9 ovoce nejl\u00edp chutn\u00e1 a ve spoust\u011b dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed najdeme pa\u0161ovanou whisky, vodku, dom\u00e1c\u00ed v\u00edno a hlavn\u011b p\u00e1lenku arak (obsah alkoholu 40 %). <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_4_placeholder\n

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Esfah\u00e1nsk\u00e9 mosty<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

R\u00e1no se vrac\u00edme do m\u011bsta a rad\u0161i si jdeme hledat hotel. A potk\u00e1v\u00e1me Lilly. Ta n\u00e1m nap\u0159ed nab\u00edz\u00ed pokoj za nesmysln\u011b drahou cenu, pak n\u00e1s zve aspo\u0148 na \u0161\u00e1lek \u010daje. Z\u016fstaneme u n\u00ed t\u0159i dny. Zadarmo. V\u011b\u010dn\u00e9 studentce Lilly je 40 let, je svobodn\u00e1, bezd\u011btn\u00e1 a mysl\u00edm, \u017ee to tak z\u016fstane. Po sv\u00e9m luxusn\u00edm byt\u011b b\u011bh\u00e1 v tri\u010dku na ram\u00ednka a minisukni. Po dlouh\u00e9 dob\u011b sp\u00edme v posteli a m\u00e1me tu i evropsk\u00fd z\u00e1chod. Mus\u00ed pr\u00fd do \u0161koly, ale nakonec n\u00e1s rad\u011bji prov\u00e1d\u00ed po pam\u00e1tk\u00e1ch. Prol\u00e9z\u00e1me bazary a na<\/span>kupujeme ko\u0159en\u00ed, p\u0159ed rozp\u00e1len\u00fdm sluncem se ukr\u00fdv\u00e1me do podloub\u00ed most\u016f<\/strong>, kde mlad\u00ed lid\u00e9 hraj\u00ed na kytaru a zp\u00edvaj\u00ed. Esfah\u00e1n je nejhez\u010d\u00ed m\u011bsto<\/strong>, kter\u00e9 jsme na na\u0161\u00ed cest\u011b nav\u0161t\u00edvily.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_5_placeholder\n

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Amir \u0106akmak<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

YAZD (JAZD)<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Nejstar\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto \u00cdr\u00e1nu le\u017e\u00ed ve vyprahl\u00e9 krajin\u011b na tranzitn\u00ed cest\u011b Turecko – P\u00e1kist\u00e1n. V minulosti pr\u00fd okouzlilo i Marca Pola. Historick\u00e9 centrum Yazdu je cel\u00e9 upl\u00e1can\u00e9 z hl\u00edny.<\/strong>  Spletit\u00e9 uli\u010dky mezi domy vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed dokonal\u00e9 bludi\u0161t\u011b, kde se po chv\u00edli ztr\u00e1c\u00edme. Velk\u00e9 horko a sucho vy\u0159e\u0161ili m\u00edstn\u00ed stavbou  v\u011b\u017e\u00ed zvan\u00fdch b\u00e1dg\u00edry<\/strong>, slou\u017e\u00ed pro ventilaci dom\u016f a jsou jak\u00fdmsi p\u0159edch\u016fdcem klimatizace. Hlou\u010dky d\u011bt\u00ed na n\u00e1s pok\u0159ikuj\u00ed a \u010dern\u011b zahalen\u00e9 studentky se r\u00e1dy nechaj\u00ed p\u0159emluvit ke spole\u010dn\u00e9 fotce. Ve\u010der se z minaret\u016f oz\u00fdv\u00e1 hlas muez\u00edna vyb\u00edzej\u00edc\u00edho k modlitb\u011b, po kter\u00e9 se ulice zapln\u00ed lidmi a za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 to tu po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b \u017e\u00edt. Hlavn\u011b okolo komplexu Amir \u010cakmak<\/strong>. Jedn\u00e1 se o me\u0161itu, bazar a l\u00e1zn\u011b v jednom,  kter\u00e9 se po setm\u011bn\u00ed n\u00e1dhern\u011b rozz\u00e1\u0159\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_6_placeholder\n

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Starobyl\u00e9 chlad\u00edc\u00ed za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed v okol\u00ed Yazdu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bydl\u00edme u stavebn\u00edho in\u017een\u00fdra Farzada, s kter\u00fdm v jeho star\u00e9m Peugeotu 305 vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme na v\u00fdlet po okol\u00ed. Kv\u016fli sankc\u00edm tu jin\u00e1 auta ne\u017e tyto star\u00e9 peugeoty nejezd\u00ed, n\u011bco nov\u011bj\u0161\u00edho a luxusn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho snad jen v Teher\u00e1nu. Seda\u010dky m\u00e1 obalen\u00e9 igelitem, aby se neopot\u0159ebovaly a on auto pozd\u011bji v\u00fdhodn\u011b prodal. Pokud n\u00e1s pr\u00fd zastav\u00ed policie, jen n\u00e1m pom\u00e1h\u00e1 naj\u00edt cestu. Yazd je siln\u011b konzervativn\u00ed m\u011bsto, v\u0161echny \u017eeny jsou v \u010dern\u00e9m a kontakt s cizinci, nedej bo\u017ee s cizinkami, mu\u017ee zp\u016fsobit velk\u00e9 probl\u00e9my. Sehnat couchsurfing tu bylo opravdu t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9. <\/span><\/p>\n

Okoln\u00ed krajina je magick\u00e1.<\/span> Z kamenit\u00e9 pou\u0161t\u011b vystupuj\u00ed rozeklan\u00e9 hory,  v mal\u00fdch vesni\u010dk\u00e1ch jako by se zastavil \u010das.  Ruiny star\u00fdch hrad\u016f podtrhuj\u00ed kr\u00e1su Orientu. Potk\u00e1v\u00e1me turisty v d\u016fchodov\u00e9m v\u011bku z Portugalska a  Chorvatska, v\u0161ichni si zemi a hlavn\u011b m\u00edstn\u00ed lidi moc  pochvaluj\u00ed. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_7_placeholder\n

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Citadela Kar\u00edma Ch\u00e1na<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

SHIRAZ (\u0160\u00cdRAZ) <\/strong>                 <\/span><\/p>\n

M\u011bsto b\u00e1sn\u00edk\u016f, r\u016f\u017e\u00ed a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch \u017een. P\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme sem brzy r\u00e1no a hned po rozedn\u011bn\u00ed n\u00e1s taxi doveze k ohromn\u00e9 citadele Kar\u00edma Ch\u00e1na<\/strong>. N\u00e1dhern\u00e1 stavba se zelenou zahradou uvnit\u0159, kde nab\u00edr\u00e1me s\u00edly po no\u010dn\u00edm p\u0159ejezdu. V poledne je tu ji\u017e plno m\u00edstn\u00edch s rodinami, jdeme tedy prozkoumat nedalekou me\u0161itu. Sice plat\u00edme vstupn\u00e9, ale interi\u00e9r s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi klenbami stoj\u00ed za to. Zdej\u0161\u00ed nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tkou je z\u0159ejm\u011b hrobka persk\u00e9ho b\u00e1sn\u00edka H\u00e1feze<\/strong>. Mo\u017en\u00e1 je tak popul\u00e1rn\u00ed proto, \u017ee i p\u0159es z\u00e1kaz alkoholu v isl\u00e1mu, ve sv\u00fdch b\u00e1sn\u00edch hojn\u011b op\u011bvuje v\u00edno. V p\u0159ilehl\u00e9m parku sed\u00ed spousta mlad\u00fdch lid\u00ed s knihou v ruce. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed si \u010dtou, n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed knihou maskuj\u00ed tajnou sch\u016fzku. Zejm\u00e9na v konzervativn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u010d\u00e1stech zem\u011b je nemo\u017en\u011b, aby se chlapci a d\u00edvky sch\u00e1zeli na ve\u0159ejnosti za \u00fa\u010delem rande. V\u0161e mus\u00ed prob\u00edhat tajn\u011b. Shiraz je v\u0161ak p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9, velmi liber\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u011bsto. Oproti Yazdu \u017eeny nos\u00ed barevn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed oble\u010den\u00ed nebo aspo\u0148 \u0161\u00e1tky. \u00cdr\u00e1nky \u010dasto opl\u00fdvaj\u00ed vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed, \u0161t\u00edhlej\u0161\u00ed postavou s u\u0161lechtil\u00fdm obli\u010dejem, n\u011bkde mezi arabsk\u00fdm a indick\u00fdm typem. S<\/span>v\u00e9 kr\u00e1sy jsou si v\u011bdomy a bravurn\u011b um\u00ed kli\u010dkovat mezi n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdmi pravidly. Snad ka\u017ed\u00e1 si l\u00ed\u010d\u00ed obli\u010dej,  ty odv\u00e1\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sv\u00e9 hust\u00e9 vlasy, \u010dasto odbarven\u00e9 na blond, nech\u00e1vaj\u00ed vykukovat zpoza \u0161\u00e1tku. R\u00e1dy nos\u00ed \u010dern\u00e9, \u00fazce vypasovan\u00e9 kab\u00e1tky a\u017e ke kotn\u00edk\u016fm, ale s vysok\u00fdm odv\u00e1\u017en\u00fdm rozparkem. Pod kab\u00e1tkem d\u017e\u00edny a elegantn\u00ed sand\u00e1lky, podpatky nejsou v\u00fdjimkou. P\u011bst\u011bn\u00e9 nehty na rukou i nohou jsou samoz\u0159ejmost\u00ed. Tak to vypad\u00e1 ve velk\u00fdch m\u011bstech (Teher\u00e1n, Esfah\u00e1n, Shiraz, Tabriz). V t\u011bch konzervativn\u00edch (Qom, Ma\u0161had, Yazd) a na venkov\u011b st\u00e1le vl\u00e1dne tradice.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Couchsurfing na posledn\u00ed chv\u00edli domlouv\u00e1m u dvou sester. Star\u0161\u00ed Masune se sv\u011btlou plet\u00ed vypad\u00e1 jako \u00edr\u00e1nsk\u00e1 verze Nikol Kidmanov\u00e9. Mlad\u0161\u00ed, mnohem tmav\u0161\u00ed Mina je po plastice nosu, kter\u00e1 je u \u00cdr\u00e1nek velmi popul\u00e1rn\u00ed. Neust\u00e1le n\u011bco sd\u00edl\u00ed na Instagramu.  Ve\u010der n\u00e1s p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed pozdravit tety a sest\u0159enice, s kter\u00fdmi r\u00e1no pojedeme na v\u00fdlet. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_8_placeholder\n

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Persepolis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Starov\u011bk\u00e1 Persepolis<\/strong> vznikla p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b v r. 518 p\u0159. n. l. a dlouhou dobu byla metropol\u00ed Persk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e. Jej\u00ed slavnou \u00e9ru ukon\u010dil Alexandr Velik\u00fd v r. 331 p\u0159. n. l. kdy ji osobn\u011b zap\u00e1lil jako odplatu za zni\u010den\u00ed Ath\u00e9n (citov\u00e1no z wikipedie:  https:\/\/cs.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Persepolis<\/a>). Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pam\u00e1tka \u00cdr\u00e1nu dnes p\u0159itahuje z\u00e1stupy turist\u016f z cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed sem p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme brzy r\u00e1no a mezi ruinami pal\u00e1c\u016f se toul\u00e1me t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 samy. Po p\u011b\u0161ince vyb\u011bhnu kopec a cel\u00fd are\u00e1l m\u00e1m jako na dlani. V poledne je tu u\u017e plno turist\u016f a m\u00edsto pro m\u011b ztr\u00e1c\u00ed sv\u00e9 kouzlo.                                                               <\/span><\/p>\n

Je p\u00e1tek (muslimsk\u00e1 ned\u011ble) a jsme zv\u00e1ny na pozdn\u00ed rodinn\u00fd ob\u011bd. <\/span>V dom\u011b rodi\u010d\u016f Masune a Miny se sch\u00e1z\u00ed skoro dvacet lid\u00ed v\u0161ech generac\u00ed. Ka\u017ed\u00fd p\u0159inese n\u011bjak\u00e9 j\u00eddlo a ubrus na persk\u00e9m koberci p\u0159ekypuje dobrotami. Po j\u00eddle n\u00e1s nejstar\u0161\u00ed \u017eeny zvou na vodn\u00ed d\u00fdmku se zabij\u00e1cky siln\u00fdm tab\u00e1kem. Pop\u00edj\u00edme k\u00e1vu, \u010daj, k tomu sladkosti z r\u016fzn\u00fdch kout\u016f zem\u011b a je n\u00e1m tu prost\u011b skv\u011ble! <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_9_placeholder\n

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Bazar v Tabrizu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

TABRIZ<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Z jihu na severoz\u00e1pad zem\u011b p\u0159elet\u00edme, je to rychl\u00e9 a levn\u00e9. Tabriz  le\u017e\u00edc\u00ed na hedv\u00e1bn\u00e9 stezce nedaleko tureck\u00fdch hranic. Oproti rozp\u00e1len\u00e9mu jihu je tu p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b chladn\u00e9 podneb\u00ed. U 58let\u00e9 d\u00e1my Simy a jej\u00edho man\u017eela si p\u0159ipad\u00e1me jako v hotelu. Sima zbo\u017e\u0148uje couchsrufing a sv\u00e9 hosty, je velmi modern\u00ed a otev\u0159en\u00e1. Ve\u010der doraz\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed velk\u00e1 d\u00e1ma 68let\u00e1 N\u011bmka Christina. Sama procestovala cel\u00fd sv\u011bt a \u00cdr\u00e1n pova\u017euje za  jednu z nejp\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch a nejbezpe\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch zem\u00ed. O sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch vydala  v N\u011bmecku knihu Velk\u00e1 cesta s mal\u00fdm d\u016fchodech (https:\/\/www.amazon.de\/Gro%C3%9Fe-Reise-mit-kleiner-Rente-ebook\/dp\/B01952R466<\/a>).                                                        <\/span><\/p>\n

Tabriz je vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fd sv\u00fdm bazarem<\/strong>, pr\u00fd nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edm v \u00cdr\u00e1nu. Na t\u0159iceti kilometrech uli\u010dek se nach\u00e1z\u00ed 7 000 obchod\u016f s koberci, zlatem, ko\u0159en\u00edm, parf\u00e9my a v\u0161\u00edm, co V\u00e1s jen napadne. 1000 let star\u00fd bazar si dodnes uchoval atmosf\u00e9ru d\u00e1vn\u00fdch \u010das\u016f, modern\u00ed doba ho zat\u00edm nezas\u00e1hla. Snad to tak je\u0161t\u011b dlouho z\u016fstane.                                                        <\/span><\/p>\n

I s Christinou si zajedeme do nedalek\u00e9 vesni\u010dky Kandovan<\/strong>, kter\u00e1 je cel\u00e1 vytesan\u00e1 do skal. Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 m\u00edsto, ale ob\u011b jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvily poh\u00e1dkovou skaln\u00ed oblast Kappadokii v Turecku, moc n\u00e1s to tu tedy nenadchne. Ve\u010der se u Simy doma sch\u00e1z\u00ed skupina mlad\u00fdch lid\u00ed. U\u010d\u00ed se anglicky, v\u0161ichni provozuj\u00ed couchsurfing a siln\u011b mi p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00ed tajn\u00e1 setk\u00e1n\u00ed Charty 77.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_10_placeholder\n

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Cesta ke Kaspick\u00e9mu mo\u0159i<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

KASPICK\u00c9 MO\u0158E<\/strong>                      <\/span><\/p>\n

I kdy\u017e to nebylo v pl\u00e1nu, na radu Simy vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme ke Kaspick\u00e9mu mo\u0159i<\/strong>. \u0158idi\u010d sd\u00edlen\u00e9ho taxi n\u00e1s chce nat\u00e1hnout, to se ale nel\u00edb\u00ed p\u00e1ru, kter\u00fd na\u0161e dohadov\u00e1n\u00ed opod\u00e1l sleduje. Mlad\u00edk n\u00e1s odvede stranou a zaplat\u00ed taxik\u00e1\u0159i dv\u011b m\u00edsta za cenu pro m\u00edstn\u00ed. Kdy\u017e  nasedneme my, taxik\u00e1\u0159  zu\u0159\u00ed, ale nic u\u017e nezm\u016f\u017ee. Dv\u011b st\u011b kilometr\u016f divok\u00fdmi horami n\u00e1s stoj\u00ed 60 K\u010d. Jak by ne, litr benz\u00ednu tu vych\u00e1z\u00ed na 6 K\u010d..<\/span><\/p>\n

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Kaspick\u00e9 mo\u0159e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Simin p\u0159\u00edtel Azim n\u00e1s ubytuje ve sv\u00e9m ohromn\u00e9m dom\u011b ve vesni\u010dce Choobar nedaleko pl\u00e1\u017ee. Kaspick\u00e9 mo\u0159e je slan\u00e9 jezero, nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed a nejobjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed na sv\u011bt\u011b (rozlohou skoro 5x v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e \u010cesk\u00e1 republika). Kdysi to v\u0161ak mo\u0159e bylo, ale pevnina jej od oce\u00e1n\u016f odd\u011blila. Na jeho b\u0159ez\u00edch le\u017e\u00ed p\u011bt st\u00e1t\u016f: Rusko, Kazachst\u00e1n, Turkmenist\u00e1n, \u00cdr\u00e1n a \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1n (citov\u00e1no z: https:\/\/cs.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Kaspick%C3%A9_mo%C5%99e<\/a>).  Rodina n\u00e1s vezme na prohl\u00eddku sv\u00fdch plant\u00e1\u017e\u00ed kiwi. Z\u00e1\u017eitkem je kybl\u00edk pln\u00fd \u010derv\u016f, kter\u00e9 se mus\u00ed vyb\u00edrat z ko\u0159en\u016f strom\u016f. Okoln\u00ed p\u0159\u00edroda je \u0161\u0165avnat\u011b zelen\u00e1, horizont lemuj\u00ed hory a vzduch je p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b vlhk\u00fd. Hodn\u011b \u010dasu tr\u00e1v\u00edme na pl\u00e1\u017ei s mal\u00fdmi synky, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1m ukazuj\u00ed zdej\u0161\u00ed \u017eelvi\u010dky, M\u00e1me jen pro sebe cel\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edzem\u00ed domu, po nep\u0159etr\u017eit\u00e9m cestov\u00e1n\u00ed si kone\u010dn\u011b odpo\u010dineme. Rodinu pot\u011b\u0161\u00ed bonbony a suven\u00fdry z \u010ceska, k tomu koup\u00edme k ob\u011bdu ku\u0159e. Vypad\u00e1 jako kr\u016fta. Azim se  chlub\u00ed knihou host\u016f, m\u011bl jich zde v\u00edce ne\u017e t\u0159i sta. Dokonce z Trutnova, Pardubic a Ostravy. Sv\u011bt je mal\u00fd. <\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_11_placeholder\n

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Poho\u0159\u00ed  Elborz, cesta k hradu Alamut<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

ALAMUT<\/strong>                                                                                                           Po prudk\u00fdch serpentin\u00e1ch jedeme do poho\u0159\u00ed<\/strong> Elborz<\/strong>. Koch\u00e1me se par\u00e1dn\u00edmi v\u00fdhledy, zastav\u00edme u modr\u00e9ho jezera Evan<\/strong> se st\u00e1dy ove\u010dek okolo. Je zde n\u011bkolik hrad<\/strong>\u016f, my si vyb\u00edr\u00e1me ten nejslavn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed v \u00dadol\u00ed vrah\u016f (The Valley Of the<\/strong> Assassins) – Alamut<\/strong>. Na vrcholu zvr\u00e1sn\u011bn\u00e9ho \u00fatesu byl vystaven v roce 860, o dv\u011b st\u011b let pozd\u011bji jej z\u00edskali do sv\u00e9 moci Asas\u00edni<\/strong>. Byli pova\u017eov\u00e1ni za n\u00e1jemn\u00e9 vrahy, ve skute\u010dnosti \u0161lo o n\u00e1bo\u017eenskou sektu vyzn\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed \u0161i\u00edtsk\u00fd isl\u00e1m. Za dal\u0161\u00edch dv\u011b st\u011b let zanikli p\u0159i invazi Mongol\u016f. K ruin\u00e1m hradu na vrcholu vede \u00fazk\u00e1 cesti\u010dka vinouc\u00ed se okolo hory. V\u00fdstup je pro m\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd. Ter\u00e9n vid\u00edm \u0161patn\u011b a pode mnou je stometrov\u00e1 propast. Ale v\u00fdhled na zasn\u011b\u017een\u00e9 vrcholky p\u011btitis\u00edcovek stoj\u00ed za to. <\/span><\/p>\n

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D\u00edv\u010d\u00ed t\u0159\u00edda<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u00e1\u0161 hostitel Ir\u00e1\u010d (to je jm\u00e9no, nic spole\u010dn\u00e9ho s Ir\u00e1\u010danem) n\u00e1s po\u017e\u00e1d\u00e1, zda bychom si ne\u0161ly anglicky popov\u00eddat se \u017ea\u010dkami do jeho \u0161koly. Pro\u010d ne? D\u00edvky ve v\u011bku 10-15 let se zpo\u010d\u00e1tku styd\u00ed, ale zn\u00e1te \u017eensk\u00e9. Po chv\u00edli se \u017eiv\u011b bav\u00edme jako star\u00e9 zn\u00e1m\u00e9, pro holky je to ohromn\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. Na z\u00e1v\u011br n\u00e1s pros\u00ed o n\u011bjakou p\u00edsni\u010dku, kamar\u00e1dka jim tedy zazp\u00edv\u00e1 \u010deskou hymnu. \u00cdr\u00e1nsk\u00e1 \u0161kola se mo\u017en\u00e1 ani nijak dramaticky neli\u0161\u00ed od t\u00e9 na\u0161\u00ed. D\u00edvky mus\u00ed b\u00fdt samoz\u0159ejm\u011b zahalen\u00e9 a t\u0159\u00eddy jsou rozd\u011bleny podle pohlav\u00ed. Vlastn\u011b jeden rozd\u00edl tu je, u\u010ditel\u00e9 maj\u00ed u sv\u00fdch \u017e\u00e1k\u016f velkou \u00factu a respekt.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_12_placeholder\n

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Pam\u00e1tnk Azadi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

TEHER\u00c1N<\/strong>                                        <\/span><\/p>\n

Do hlavn\u00edho m\u011bsta proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme kolem r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdch pol\u00ed. Tak tedy r\u00fd\u017ei bych v \u00cdr\u00e1nu ne\u010dekala! Hektick\u00fd osmimili\u00f3nov\u00fd Teher\u00e1n<\/strong> n\u00e1s moc nezaj\u00edm\u00e1, ale vynechat pam\u00e1tn\u00edk<\/strong> Azadi<\/strong> je jako v Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017ei nevid\u011bt Eifelovku. Pades\u00e1t metr\u016f vysok\u00fd symbol Teher\u00e1nu nechal postavit v roce 1971 \u0161\u00e1h Muhammad Rez\u00e1 Pahlav\u00ed na po\u010dest zalo\u017een\u00ed Persk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161e. P\u016fvodn\u00ed n\u00e1zev Kr\u00e1lova pam\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed v\u011b\u017e (Borj-e Shahyad)<\/strong> byl p\u0159ejmenov\u00e1n po isl\u00e1msk\u00e9 revoluci v roce 1979 na V\u011b\u017e svobody (Borj-e Azadi)<\/strong> v t\u00e9to nesvobodn\u00e9 zemi. Okolo jsou font\u00e1ny, upraven\u00e1 zele\u0148 a m\u00edsta k odpo\u010dinku. Kr\u00e1su stavby z b\u00edl\u00e9ho mramoru podtrhuj\u00ed temn\u00e1 mra\u010dna p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00ed bou\u0159ky (ta nakonec nedorazila). J\u00edzda metrem je tak\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitek. P\u0159edn\u00ed vagony jsou ur\u010deny v\u00fdhradn\u011b mu\u017e\u016fm, zadn\u00ed jen pro \u017eeny. Spole\u010dn\u00e9 neexistuj\u00ed. Vystupujeme u b\u00fdval\u00e9 americk\u00e9 ambas\u00e1dy.<\/strong> P\u0159i p\u0159evratu v roce 1979 zde bylo zadr\u017eov\u00e1no 444 dn\u00ed p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b \u0161edes\u00e1t \u0161est americk\u00fdch rukojm\u00ed (podrobnosti zde:  https:\/\/cs.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Americk%C3%A1_rukojm%C3%AD_v_%C3%8Dr%C3%A1nu).<\/a> Dnes je zav\u0159en\u00e1 a opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1, USA nem\u00e1 v \u00cdr\u00e1nu \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 zastupitelstv\u00ed. Ze\u010f ambas\u00e1dy pomalovan\u00e1 protiamerick\u00fdmi hesly a grafity p\u0159\u00edmo vyb\u00edz\u00ed k fotografov\u00e1n\u00ed. Vrata jsou  p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b otev\u0159en\u00e1 a my vid\u00edme p\u0159\u00edmo na budovu.  Po chv\u00edli u n\u00e1s zastav\u00ed policejn\u00ed auto se zapnut\u00fdm maj\u00e1kem a sir\u00e9nou a hl\u00eddka slu\u0161n\u011b \u017e\u00e1d\u00e1, a\u0165 odejdeme. Nevad\u00ed, u\u017e to v\u0161e m\u00e1me nafocen\u00e9. Toul\u00e1me se bazary, zajdeme na posledn\u00ed kebab a vypijeme spoustu \u0161\u00e1lk\u016f \u010daje u vtipn\u00e9ho prodejce autor\u00e1di\u00ed do star\u00fdch peugeot\u016f.<\/span><\/p>\nngg_shortcode_13_placeholder\n

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Zamy\u0161len\u00ed nad \u00cdr\u00e1nem a jeho lidmi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

No\u010dn\u00edm Teher\u00e1nem jedeme sm\u011br leti\u0161t\u011b. Jako film si prom\u00edt\u00e1m v\u0161echny z\u00e1\u017eitky, v\u0161echna setk\u00e1n\u00ed s lidmi. \u017divot tak podobn\u00fd tomu na\u0161emu a p\u0159itom tak odli\u0161n\u00fd. Zem\u011b lid\u00ed s velk\u00fdm srdcem, kte\u0159\u00ed tou\u017e\u00ed po demokracii. Ale mo\u017en\u00e1 by je p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 velk\u00e1 svoboda zm\u011bnila a \u00cdr\u00e1n by ztratil sv\u00e9 kouzlo. V \u00cdr\u00e1nu jsem se c\u00edtila nejbezpe\u010dn\u011bji na sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch a potkala ty nejp\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed lidi. Ur\u010dit\u011b se sem znovu vr\u00e1t\u00edm.<\/span><\/p>\n

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NA Z\u00c1V\u011aR: <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n